MTB Maintence questions all in one place
#1
With a mighty wind
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 2,601
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1091 Post(s)
Liked 880 Times
in
494 Posts
MTB Maintence questions all in one place
Posted in mechanics rather than Mountain Biking just because a few of these questions are pretty general to everyone doing their own maintenance. MODS, feel free to move to whichever you think is more relevant.
I checked my chain length yesterday with one of those dogbone looking checking tools. It's a tight 1.0. Super loose on the .75. So that's well within the realm of replacement. While I'm at it, I was looking at the chainring. On a NW ring, I realize I don't really know what I'm looking for. It's not slipping and it's not dropping the chain. It looks a little rough but it's a MTB, it's supposed to look a little rough. This would get replaced with the exact same ring, so no fun reason to just do it anyway, unless I need it. The cassette looks great and I'd imagine it would wear a lot slower than a ring on a 1X.
On to the tires. They've been on these rims for 2 years. They started with Trucker Cream and I've added some orange seal endurance at some point, I don't remember when. They aren't leaking, at all. Is there a point, even if the tires aren't worn out that I should take em off, remove the boogers, replace the sealant and remount?
Speaking of worn out, what do you think of the rear tire? I have the exact same tire brand new ready to be put into service but this one isn't slipping. I'd say that's half worn, and I don't really know how far to let it ride before replacing.
The brakes are all getting serviced, since I broke a lever in a wreck. Aside from that, they are pretty good. I'll take a caliper to the rotors, but I think they're OK too.
What about fork service? I don't know how many miles or hours the bike has. I'd estimate 100 hours but I don't know. It's working perfectly. I'll let a shop do it when the time comes.
I'm going to replace the shift cable and housing, just to make sure it gets done.
I was going to pull the BB just to clean and make sure there is fresh grease on the threads.
Is there anything I'm missing?
I checked my chain length yesterday with one of those dogbone looking checking tools. It's a tight 1.0. Super loose on the .75. So that's well within the realm of replacement. While I'm at it, I was looking at the chainring. On a NW ring, I realize I don't really know what I'm looking for. It's not slipping and it's not dropping the chain. It looks a little rough but it's a MTB, it's supposed to look a little rough. This would get replaced with the exact same ring, so no fun reason to just do it anyway, unless I need it. The cassette looks great and I'd imagine it would wear a lot slower than a ring on a 1X.
On to the tires. They've been on these rims for 2 years. They started with Trucker Cream and I've added some orange seal endurance at some point, I don't remember when. They aren't leaking, at all. Is there a point, even if the tires aren't worn out that I should take em off, remove the boogers, replace the sealant and remount?
Speaking of worn out, what do you think of the rear tire? I have the exact same tire brand new ready to be put into service but this one isn't slipping. I'd say that's half worn, and I don't really know how far to let it ride before replacing.
The brakes are all getting serviced, since I broke a lever in a wreck. Aside from that, they are pretty good. I'll take a caliper to the rotors, but I think they're OK too.
What about fork service? I don't know how many miles or hours the bike has. I'd estimate 100 hours but I don't know. It's working perfectly. I'll let a shop do it when the time comes.
I'm going to replace the shift cable and housing, just to make sure it gets done.
I was going to pull the BB just to clean and make sure there is fresh grease on the threads.
Is there anything I'm missing?
#2
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 15,036
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6221 Post(s)
Liked 4,829 Times
in
3,330 Posts
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,839
Bikes: 2012 Specialized Elite Disc, 1983 Trek 520
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 676 Post(s)
Liked 742 Times
in
431 Posts
Agree with above. Most BB bearings are sealed. You'd have to remove the seal to grease them, which I've done, but only if they feel bad. Otherwise you might just ruin the seal. It's a good idea to pull the cranks and feel the bearings without the mass of the crank.
I'd only replace shift cables if I were having problems shifting. That said, shifting problems can creep up and new cables and housings can make a difference in crispness. I just did that to my wife's road bike, which I ride once a year just for that reason. She had no complaints, but it was getting sloppy.
I'd only replace shift cables if I were having problems shifting. That said, shifting problems can creep up and new cables and housings can make a difference in crispness. I just did that to my wife's road bike, which I ride once a year just for that reason. She had no complaints, but it was getting sloppy.
#4
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,594
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4388 Post(s)
Liked 4,025 Times
in
2,688 Posts
It looks like you have a good idea of what is needed. Typically fork service is every 50-100 hours(ish) and then usually a rebuild at 200 hours.
Cleaning and regressing is never a bad idea on most things. People overlook this and especially things like bottom brackets and seat posts with can seize and ruin your day down the road. I had to CUT OUT a French threaded Dura Ace 7400 bottom bracket and it was painful. Chances are it probably was stuck for a while before I got the frame but I was so excited to just ride the bike I stupidly didn't overhaul it till years later but it never saw a lot of riding so who knows.
Some mechanics I have worked with suggest replacing chain and chainring for N/W especially when the chain is truly worn out all the way or beyond I don't know if I totally subscribe to that camp but I can see if you start having shifting issues.
Cleaning and regressing is never a bad idea on most things. People overlook this and especially things like bottom brackets and seat posts with can seize and ruin your day down the road. I had to CUT OUT a French threaded Dura Ace 7400 bottom bracket and it was painful. Chances are it probably was stuck for a while before I got the frame but I was so excited to just ride the bike I stupidly didn't overhaul it till years later but it never saw a lot of riding so who knows.
Some mechanics I have worked with suggest replacing chain and chainring for N/W especially when the chain is truly worn out all the way or beyond I don't know if I totally subscribe to that camp but I can see if you start having shifting issues.
#5
With a mighty wind
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 2,601
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1091 Post(s)
Liked 880 Times
in
494 Posts
My chain checker has two sides. One side is "approaching worn" and the other is "worn". It's tight on the worn side but does go. No need to try to get any more life out of it, considering the amount of volcanic dust I ride in.
Anybody have any insight on the tubeless question I asked? I should have added, the bike is parked or almost parked from December-March due to weather and skiing. Obviously, I'd love to just add a squirt of sealant to each tire and ride on. I guess I'm thinking about a lump of boogers on one side. It doesn't feel off balance. This bike doesn't know roads, i'd be surprised if it's ever exceeded 30mph.
I'm happy enough to ride the current chainring unless it gives me problems.
I'll talk to the shop about fork service when it's in for a brake job, once the new lever shows up.
Likes For rosefarts:
#6
Just Pedaling
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: US West Coast
Posts: 1,020
Bikes: YEP!
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 336 Post(s)
Liked 524 Times
in
350 Posts
With a NEW chain, which you definitely need if the ,75 slips in easy, you will know immediately whether the cogs or chain ring is worn. If the new chain doesn't jump (skip) on the cogs or chain ring then all is good. You might want to service your headset. Lots of crap gets in there. Clean the bearings and re-grease and preload them. Also check your wheel bearings (hubs) for any slop or roughness. They can always use a cleaning and re-greasing. If you're taking your bike into lots of mud or water, I would definitely check the BB bearings, even if you don't feel comfortable prying the seals off and cleaning and re-greasing. Lots of ugly crap goes down the seat tube and guess where it ends up. Yep, in the BB. Your tires look good wear-wise. Adding gunk is a personal choice. Skiing huh? Ever thought about a slalom ski on the front of your bike?
#7
Junior Member
I wouldn't clean out the tire, maybe add some sealant if you have time/don't mind. Honestly I tended to just let it go unless I was having sealing issues around the bead. Tire seems fine for normal riding. If you start having slippage up climbs or accidental skids out the back then replace it. I would do the fork while it's at the shop. Of course you don't HAVE to do the fork service but it will either leak eventually or you will get forbidden glitter/metallic flake paintjob looking oil if you leave it way too long.