Crank Arm Bolt Torque Setting
03-24-24, 10:35 PM
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Crank Arm Bolt Torque Setting
I couldn't find any documentation on torque specs for vintage Shimano from the 80's. Do you tighten the crank arm bolt by feel or a specific value?
03-26-24, 01:42 PM
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Post moved from Sales thread to its own thread in Mechanics.
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03-26-24, 03:25 PM
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That era usually had crank arm retaining bolts torqued to around 30ft/lb. Did you check out the Park torque spec chart? Andy
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03-26-24, 03:31 PM
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Back when those cranks were made, nobody spoke torque spec.
Do it the old fashioned way, tightening until the torque ramps up toward the wall.
Do it the old fashioned way, tightening until the torque ramps up toward the wall.
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03-26-24, 03:50 PM
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IF you have a torque wrench, 30-35 Ft-Lb.
Else, good & tight.
BTW, the first time I torqued one, it was more force than I expected. Possibly from a more awkward position?
Else, good & tight.
BTW, the first time I torqued one, it was more force than I expected. Possibly from a more awkward position?
03-26-24, 06:57 PM
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By feel. Check tightness again after first ride
03-26-24, 07:39 PM
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One guide to proper torque is the length of the tool used.
BITD cranks were tightened with the "peanut butter" wrench. This was about 7" long, just clearing the pedal. Tighten with something shy of the max force you can muster.
BITD cranks were tightened with the "peanut butter" wrench. This was about 7" long, just clearing the pedal. Tighten with something shy of the max force you can muster.
Last edited by FBinNY; 03-26-24 at 08:22 PM.
03-27-24, 07:55 AM
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You couldn't find any documentation? You must not have gone to Shimano's Technical Document Site.
They still have the old SI's that were used back then. All you need to know is the part number. Which you can use the cranks PN which is around the hole for the pedal on the inboard side.
Here is the SI for a early 80's Deore crank FC-M730... https://si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/si/T-...000-00-ENG.pdf
I usually go by feel for all the bolts and nuts on my bike. Very occasionally, I'll double check myself with a torque wrench to see if I'm in the ball park.
They still have the old SI's that were used back then. All you need to know is the part number. Which you can use the cranks PN which is around the hole for the pedal on the inboard side.
Here is the SI for a early 80's Deore crank FC-M730... https://si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/si/T-...000-00-ENG.pdf
I usually go by feel for all the bolts and nuts on my bike. Very occasionally, I'll double check myself with a torque wrench to see if I'm in the ball park.
Last edited by Iride01; 03-27-24 at 08:01 AM.
03-27-24, 09:40 AM
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I recommend 260 - 300 in lb.
Less for classic campagnolo. Even less for Stronglight.
/markp
Less for classic campagnolo. Even less for Stronglight.
/markp
03-28-24, 05:41 AM
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I’m with Mark here or even slightly less. I’ve not done loads, but when my beam type torque wrench starts getting to 250 inch/lbs it just seems tight. Things almost feel like the aluminum is going to split going more. I used to just torque pretty darn tight with a 1/2” socket wrench. Putting on the torque wrench was a surprise as I needed a lot more to even get to 250. It scares me going higher, but I am not a strong rider. I do recheck just once with the ratchet after a couple rides.
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