Totally Tubular
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Those hubs are pretty pricey on the open market (recent eBay sales suggest $200-ish). If you decide to sell the bike you might think about keeping the wheels.
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Just ordered a set of Soyo’s from Japan. Spoke to some friends in Japan and said these are a super popular budget option ($35ish US) and often used at the Keirin school.
I’ll give an update when I ride them. Got them from here (they have a wide selection of the Japanese Soyo tires) but you have to type Soyo in the search to see the options.
https://alexscycle.com/products/soyo...3996d3fc&_ss=r
I’ll give an update when I ride them. Got them from here (they have a wide selection of the Japanese Soyo tires) but you have to type Soyo in the search to see the options.
https://alexscycle.com/products/soyo...3996d3fc&_ss=r
Last edited by Regulatori; 08-20-22 at 08:18 PM.
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A set of... ? Recent tubulars I've used (including the lowly Vittoria Rally) have generally been pretty round. Installation affects perceived roundness as well.
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If you're ok with black sidewalls and 30mm width, the Corsa Control G2.0 are on sale for $45 here: https://www.merlincycles.com/en-us/v...0c-177989.html
Shipping might be a bit though, but perhaps you can amortize that across multiple purchases.
Shipping might be a bit though, but perhaps you can amortize that across multiple purchases.
20.25 USD delivery to the Great White North, which is not bad.
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Mounted another pair of tires on another set of brand new wheels. Got reminded of how much I like using my wheel truing stand for mounting tubulars! Start with the wheel and tire in the stand and QR tight. Valve up, stand on the floor in front of me with my feet on the feet of the stand, tire on the far side of the wheel. Fit the valve, grab the tire about 18" from the valve on each side and stretch it, laying it down onto the sticky glue as I do. Rotate the wheel half way. grab remaining tire with my hands a little over a foot apart, lift up and guide the next foot or so on each side onto the rim. Lift the last section on.
When I did this two days ago, I got reminded - cheap flatbar steel stands have these wonderful feet to stand on so you can pull with everything you've got for that second pull. Bench mounted Parks need not apply for that job. (I invested $60 many years ago for that cheap stand and equally cheap dishing tool. A few years ago, I replaced the sliding tube that I always had to remove QRs/unscrew hub nuts to use with a tube coming to a pair of aluminum angles formed as a "U" on its side. Cut a slot on the far side for the axle. Now I can just slide the tool on over any nut or QR. Easy-peasy.) But the real joy? Being able to get that full, hard upward pull on the tire! As a skinny guy who was never strong and is now almost 70! I feared not being able to physically do the tubulars I loved and rode so long after my 25 years away. No longer. (I do mount them on a rim ahead of time, both to slightly stretch and remove any folds and to get a feel for how hard this one's gonna be. I can now overstretch some tires on the initial stage.)
Edit: and of course, you all want to know - NOS and almost GEL 330s, DT Revs with 2.0-1.8-2.0 RR, old Campy LF (Tipo? - no oil cap) front and a mediocre probably Taiwan 126 FW 7-speed rear. OK bearings, straight axle, little spoke abuse to holes and indents to my inside pulling build so all good except OEM blah. Continental 22c Giros because 24c is absolute max to get rear wheel to actually turn and 23c weren't coming up for me anywhere. (Wanted VItt. Corsa Gs but right now its Conty Giros, Corsa Speeds, my clinchers or just hang the bike up and stare at it.) I rode yesterday with too much air for those tires. 110/104. Not comfy braking hard for a steep descent with a stop. (Brand new rims with perhaps a touch of glue and a squeal to raise the dead didn't help.) So - harsh and iffy. But fun! This is a level of rotating weight I haven't seen in 40 years (when I finally rebuilt my retired racing days wheels. I put 20k on similar weight tires and rims back then.
It is obvious this bike needs GPR rimmed wheels because they are going to see pavement with the lower pressured 22s. These GELs should be far stronger than the old Arc en Ciels but it is still the same amount of metal So I've got to dig up/salvage/buy another 126 7-speed hub and do it again!
When I did this two days ago, I got reminded - cheap flatbar steel stands have these wonderful feet to stand on so you can pull with everything you've got for that second pull. Bench mounted Parks need not apply for that job. (I invested $60 many years ago for that cheap stand and equally cheap dishing tool. A few years ago, I replaced the sliding tube that I always had to remove QRs/unscrew hub nuts to use with a tube coming to a pair of aluminum angles formed as a "U" on its side. Cut a slot on the far side for the axle. Now I can just slide the tool on over any nut or QR. Easy-peasy.) But the real joy? Being able to get that full, hard upward pull on the tire! As a skinny guy who was never strong and is now almost 70! I feared not being able to physically do the tubulars I loved and rode so long after my 25 years away. No longer. (I do mount them on a rim ahead of time, both to slightly stretch and remove any folds and to get a feel for how hard this one's gonna be. I can now overstretch some tires on the initial stage.)
Edit: and of course, you all want to know - NOS and almost GEL 330s, DT Revs with 2.0-1.8-2.0 RR, old Campy LF (Tipo? - no oil cap) front and a mediocre probably Taiwan 126 FW 7-speed rear. OK bearings, straight axle, little spoke abuse to holes and indents to my inside pulling build so all good except OEM blah. Continental 22c Giros because 24c is absolute max to get rear wheel to actually turn and 23c weren't coming up for me anywhere. (Wanted VItt. Corsa Gs but right now its Conty Giros, Corsa Speeds, my clinchers or just hang the bike up and stare at it.) I rode yesterday with too much air for those tires. 110/104. Not comfy braking hard for a steep descent with a stop. (Brand new rims with perhaps a touch of glue and a squeal to raise the dead didn't help.) So - harsh and iffy. But fun! This is a level of rotating weight I haven't seen in 40 years (when I finally rebuilt my retired racing days wheels. I put 20k on similar weight tires and rims back then.
It is obvious this bike needs GPR rimmed wheels because they are going to see pavement with the lower pressured 22s. These GELs should be far stronger than the old Arc en Ciels but it is still the same amount of metal So I've got to dig up/salvage/buy another 126 7-speed hub and do it again!
Last edited by 79pmooney; 08-29-22 at 12:32 PM.
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Used to ride with a chap on a Peter Mooney out of Exeter Cycles. Also, been in Belmont Wheelworks many times, seeing Peter and his frames. We may have passed at times.
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Rim trade?
I have one NOS Campagnolo Omega Hardox tubular rim, 36h.
I'd like to trade for the same rim clincher (to be laced to match a wheel laced already).
I'd like to trade for the same rim clincher (to be laced to match a wheel laced already).
Last edited by oneclick; 09-05-22 at 05:59 PM.
#2412
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I mounted my first pair of Yellow Jersey tubulars last weekend. They're nice and round, have removable valve stems and look correct on a vintage bike. The ride is fine for commuting / casual stuff.
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Looks like Planet Cyclery is unloading 25mm Conti Gatorskin Sprinters at $17.95 each via Amazon, but I'm not sure I can link directly. I got there from a Google search. If you go direct, or pick the 22mm size, the price is over $50.
I grabbed 2 even though I don't even have any tubular rims at the moment!
I grabbed 2 even though I don't even have any tubular rims at the moment!
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So, any tips for finding rims/wheels locally these days? Not a full member here and averse to shipping charges and risks in any case. Thanks!
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
hurry
Thanks EVlove
Try your local Craigs List. Search wheels, wheelsets. sometimes they are in good shape. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For new tubular rims, I like Ambrosio. But I may someday order new Arayas from Japan
hurry
Thanks EVlove
Try your local Craigs List. Search wheels, wheelsets. sometimes they are in good shape. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For new tubular rims, I like Ambrosio. But I may someday order new Arayas from Japan
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
Last edited by Classtime; 09-30-22 at 02:32 PM.
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Dumb question, but will a 700c tubular work okay on a 27x1 vintage tubular rim? Or do I need to specifically look at 27" tubulars?
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No such thing as 27 inch tubulars. Your rims are clinchers or 700c tubulars.
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Sometimes you see tubulars advertised as "27 x 1". I have some in my garage still in boxes, made by Continental. have no idea why that was done. But, as @Classtime points out your rims have to be 700s as no one actually made 27 inch tubular rims.
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The above listed Sprinters on Amazon are now $70 each.
Huger deal when you posted so probably a listing error.
Next time please post the link so we can all feast!!!
Huger deal when you posted so probably a listing error.
Next time please post the link so we can all feast!!!
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Sometimes you see tubulars advertised as "27 x 1". I have some in my garage still in boxes, made by Continental. have no idea why that was done. But, as @Classtime points out your rims have to be 700s as no one actually made 27 inch tubular rims.
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And I followed up with a link. I tried to steer EV to a nice tubular wheel set but ended up posting the link a second time. I ordered a pair but they took forever to commence shipping while indicating a “problem with order”. Looks good now.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
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Sometimes you see tubulars advertised as "27 x 1". I have some in my garage still in boxes, made by Continental. have no idea why that was done. But, as @Classtime points out your rims have to be 700s as no one actually made 27 inch tubular rims.
Now, 27", 28" and 700c tubulars all refer to tubulars interchangeable with 700c rims. But I'd bet dollars to donuts (and I believe I have read several times) that actual 27" tubulars were made and used in England to be interchangeable with their standard clinchers. Everything was handmade back then. Making the sewups a touch larger and likewise the rims? No big deal. So, in answer to the question - yes real 27" rims have nearly certainly been made. Just like 41 tooth Campy chainrings have been made. (Been hearing about those vaporware rings for 50 years. A couple of years ago I met someone who told me he had two.) I'll bet if you comb every basement, attic and garage in England you'll find at least a half dozen of those rims and probably a couple of very moldy and rotted sewups. From the 1950s.
I appreciate the knowledge - thank you all!
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PSA - Tires to avoid - Panaracer Race C Evo3 26mm
Panaracer Race C Evo3 26mm at Bike Recyclery
Don't buy these. There's been another post about them in this thread already, and (admittedly) the price is tempting - but it's clear from the blowout price that Panaracer realizes it had an issue. Bike Recyclery isn't likely to refund you if they fail.
I tried to use a pair of these for the Colnago, and was rewarded with a loud "bang" after about two miles of normal riding on a flat section near my home. Closer inspection indicated that the sidewall casing blew out on one of the two tires, just at the seam between the tread and the sidewall. That's never happened with any tubular tire I've ever used. The rear tire is holding (for now) but I cannot trust that there won't be another issue, and I'm loathe to get stuck out in the boonies again. I'm also concerned about what might happen if something similar happens during a downhill.
Panaracer Race C Evo3 26mm at Bike Recyclery
Don't buy these. There's been another post about them in this thread already, and (admittedly) the price is tempting - but it's clear from the blowout price that Panaracer realizes it had an issue. Bike Recyclery isn't likely to refund you if they fail.
I tried to use a pair of these for the Colnago, and was rewarded with a loud "bang" after about two miles of normal riding on a flat section near my home. Closer inspection indicated that the sidewall casing blew out on one of the two tires, just at the seam between the tread and the sidewall. That's never happened with any tubular tire I've ever used. The rear tire is holding (for now) but I cannot trust that there won't be another issue, and I'm loathe to get stuck out in the boonies again. I'm also concerned about what might happen if something similar happens during a downhill.
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The Contis arrived here yesterday, a day late and with damage to the outer box, but all was well inside. Good to know Planet Cyclery honored what was clearly a listing error. I guess this does happen from time to time but who has the time to keep watching?
Not expecting to mount them until next season, I'm afraid.
ETA: I last rode on tubulars almost 30 years ago, never raced, just commuting. Astonished to see what a niche product they have become. Thank goodness for keirin.
Not expecting to mount them until next season, I'm afraid.
ETA: I last rode on tubulars almost 30 years ago, never raced, just commuting. Astonished to see what a niche product they have become. Thank goodness for keirin.
Last edited by EVlove; 10-07-22 at 07:38 AM. Reason: added info