Rear dropout screw removal?
02-01-22, 05:42 PM
#1
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Rear dropout screw removal?
Not sure what this screw is called in the rear dropout but I'd like to remove it. How does one take this off?
02-01-22, 06:16 PM
#2
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Well, it’s pretty obvious that the “bend” in that dropout screw will complicate things. Just why do you wish to remove it?
Gently trying to “bend” the screw back into its original shape i.e. straight, would be the first thing to do. I’m not exactly sure just how the knurled knob at the end of the screw is secured but it will need to be removed for the screw to be fully removed thru the dropout. This may be a “destructive“ process.
Gently trying to “bend” the screw back into its original shape i.e. straight, would be the first thing to do. I’m not exactly sure just how the knurled knob at the end of the screw is secured but it will need to be removed for the screw to be fully removed thru the dropout. This may be a “destructive“ process.
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02-01-22, 06:41 PM
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You can get a screwdriver on the dropout side. Cut off the bend and screw it out.
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02-01-22, 07:30 PM
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Those screws position the axle correctly in the dropouts. They can be used to dial in the shifting--some derailleurs have a spec for axle alignment with respect to the jockey wheel. They can also be used to slightly change the wheelbase.
02-01-22, 07:40 PM
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As said straighten out, cut off at the dropout, unscrew from the inside of the dropout. Save the knob & spring, go to a good hardware store and buy a 3mm stainless button head the proper length and replace it.
02-01-22, 07:43 PM
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Dremel with a cut off wheel on the outside, then simply use a small screwdriver on the inner.
Tim
Tim
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02-01-22, 08:28 PM
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Spring looks like toast. The whole shebang isn't too expensive and usually readily available Even if you don't need them for your application, they look sexy IMHO.
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02-01-22, 08:35 PM
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...before you cut off that protruding bent end, make certain the screw is not corroded in place.
They can be difficult to remove if frozen by corrosion, and having that end on there can help in that exercise.
But it looks pretty clean, so should screw out easily. You can buy 3mm screws with socket heads, to use as replacements, if you decide to replace them. Easier to install and remove.
They can be difficult to remove if frozen by corrosion, and having that end on there can help in that exercise.
But it looks pretty clean, so should screw out easily. You can buy 3mm screws with socket heads, to use as replacements, if you decide to replace them. Easier to install and remove.
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02-01-22, 08:57 PM
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A simpler way to get the same function of what this was originally is to use a 3mm bolt with nut. Head of your choice. I go stainless steel hex key pan head. (Ace Hardware) Spin the nut onto the bolt, then screw the bolt in from the back/outside. Dial in the hub location you want then tighten the nut against the dropout. (I like this for the bikes I run fix gear because I can use longer or shorter bolts when the hub is at the dropout extremes. I don't like a lot of bolt sticking out because they get bent. (See your photo.)
02-01-22, 09:08 PM
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The knurled head is screwed on - that's why there is a screwdriver slot on the other end. Unlikely that you will be able to get the thing straight enough to unscrew it even after you get the knurled head off. Advice to cut it off is your best bet.
02-01-22, 09:15 PM
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I'd cut the screw halfway between the knurled nut and the dropout so I had something to grab with visegrips on each. (Yes, if you use visegrips on the dropout half, you will need to cut off the damaged part t remove the screw but if freeing the screw is hard, being able to turn both ends could make the difference and be worth the additional work.)
02-02-22, 07:20 AM
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02-02-22, 11:55 AM
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Before you cut the bend off, grab it and give it a couple of counter clockwise turns.
This will expose some unbent thread for you to cut.
You should then find removing it easier.
Barry
This will expose some unbent thread for you to cut.
You should then find removing it easier.
Barry
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