Chain catchers on road bikes, yay or nay?
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#27
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Most of the big chainrings I have came with one.
Edit: I run triples and have the FD adjusted so it takes some effort to go onto the 3rd ring. No need for one.
Edit: I run triples and have the FD adjusted so it takes some effort to go onto the 3rd ring. No need for one.
Last edited by seypat; 06-30-21 at 05:23 AM.
#28
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Yes. Use one. Or risk damaging your BB area paint. Or really get it jammed in there and possibly damage more.
Ive needed mine maybe once or twice in 10k miles and it’s worth it. Or I think I needed it. It keeps it on the small ring
Ive needed mine maybe once or twice in 10k miles and it’s worth it. Or I think I needed it. It keeps it on the small ring
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IMO the ones that mount on the FD mounting bolt don't stay put well enough, except for the SRAM Red one. That's a nice design. Trimmed mine a bit for lightness, no good for compact crank anymore
#31
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The ones that use ONLY the bolt and tightening torque, yes, totally agree. This one however is excellent.
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I like the looks of the absolute black one that does used the FD bolt and torque for initial positioning, but has a lower bolt for fine positioning of the guard. Haven't used it yet, but considering it for my next one.
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#34
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A dropped chain can do substantial damage to a carbon frame. I've used two different k-edge catcher models and found they can make things worse if the chain gets behind the catcher. I'm running two bikes with SRAM Force AXS and decided not to even try a chain catcher. I don't use SRAM cranks and I haven't had a chain drop in almost a year, with any of three different cranks. Go to the axs owners page on Facebook and you can read many reports of frequent chain drops. Most of the problem is improper FD setup, but the SRAM cranks might be an issue too. Use of the sequential or compensating shift modes also increases the chance of chain drops, since shifts between sprockets and chain rings are often made at nearly the same time. I use neither of these features. A chain catcher isn't a substitute for proper FD setup or sensible shifting sequence.
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I like the looks of the absolute black one that does used the FD bolt and torque for initial positioning, but has a lower bolt for fine positioning of the guard. Haven't used it yet, but considering it for my next one.
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SRfa9GHQesrdLuSqVN01BNGA5Nw5jY1Opkg35dtF1SJjU936DV_7-9zUY1S9B2UTyFrspDWMGxSL8uZFIIAqZDnOOiveguP22_adGYY=s390-l75-e7-rw)
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The smaller short bolt (below the main mounting bolt) passes through an elongated hole in the chain catcher, so you just adjust the catcher to the desired point, then tighten it up with a 2mm hex key. It stays put nicely.
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A dropped chain can definitely scratch the BB shell and damage the paint, but "terminally sawed"? I'm not too sure about that.
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I'm guessing something other than (or in addition to) "chain drop" was involved here. Once the chain is dropped from the ring, it's no longer connected to the drivetrain and no longer being driven forward, so it can't really "saw" into the frame unless the bike is moving backwards.
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I always assumed the chain was hung on the inside of the ring rather than a clean drop. Could be wrong, there is often "more to the story."
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#41
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That would be true if the catcher always worked. I've had two K-edge models that didn't work when needed, The chain went behind the catcher and made things worse.
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I have the N-Gear Jump Stop of 2 of the bikes in our family's stable. I'd have it on more, but I can't seem to find anywhere to purchase them. That's a shame because it was a great, cheap, lightweight product.
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#44
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I tried a chain catcher on two of my bikes and ended up removing them. They caused more problems than they solved for me. With a chain catcher I still dropped a chain but it was much harder to extricate the chain and get it back on. At least that was my experience.
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I'm guessing something other than (or in addition to) "chain drop" was involved here. Once the chain is dropped from the ring, it's no longer connected to the drivetrain and no longer being driven forward, so it can't really "saw" into the frame unless the bike is moving backwards.
A dropped chain can definitely scratch the BB shell and damage the paint, but "terminally sawed"? I'm not too sure about that.
A dropped chain can definitely scratch the BB shell and damage the paint, but "terminally sawed"? I'm not too sure about that.
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I dropped my chain while out riding over the weekend. It's the first time I've dropped a chain in several years.
I forgot to re-engage the clutch on my 1x rear derailleur after cleaning my bike the evening before, and hit a really bumpy section of road and the chain bounced off, but mostly I blame this thread. Thankfully no BB shells were damaged. I just pulled off and stopped, slid the chain back onto the ring, flipped the switch on my RD to "on" and then caught back up with the group.
I forgot to re-engage the clutch on my 1x rear derailleur after cleaning my bike the evening before, and hit a really bumpy section of road and the chain bounced off, but mostly I blame this thread. Thankfully no BB shells were damaged. I just pulled off and stopped, slid the chain back onto the ring, flipped the switch on my RD to "on" and then caught back up with the group.
#47
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I've never had one hang up. When they drop, they fall right off and I'm left spinning with zero resistance, and since it's invariably when I'm going for the small ring, I'm going up hill and come to a stop PDQ.
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I use a Deda Dog Fang on my CF Bianchi, because I found that the 16 tooth gap from 50 to 34 makes chain drop more likely. I've also gone back and carefully adjusted all my FDs to move the cage closer to the chain when downshifted all the way. And I haven't dropped a chain on the Bianchi in years, which may mean I don't need the Dog Fang, or it may mean I DO need the Dog Fang and it's been doing its work so seamlessly I've never noticed it. In any case, I don't care enough to do the experiment to determine which of those possibilities is true.
On another bike, I found that chain drop was a symptom of having a dirty chain. But it was also a symptom of a poorly adjusted limit screw!
On another bike, I found that chain drop was a symptom of having a dirty chain. But it was also a symptom of a poorly adjusted limit screw!
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That would indicate to me that the chain catcher wasn't set up properly. When in proper adjustment, there shouldn't be room for the chain to slip between the inside of the ring and the catcher.
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I have a nice one from K-Edge that is gold that matched the bike nicely. I haven't yet needed it but I am not complaining it is there. I don't notice that little amount of weight and it is a little tiny bit of insurance but more importantly it matches my El Chulo brakes from Cane Creek.