mikemowbz

The BB is like this one, and the drive-side comes off nicely with a 36mm wrench, but I clearly need a special tool to do the other side:

https://velobase.com/ViewComponent.as...92a94&Enum=119

The outside of the cup has four holes that look like they might work with one of those 2-pin spanners, though there are also 6 indentations on the outside edge that look like they would work with another appropriate tool (I think I've seen similar tools said to be specifically for Dura-Ace BBs).

Since these things need routine maintenance, I'd likely buy the tool. What exactly am I looking for? Standard Park Tool 2-pin spanner (i.e. HCW-4) do the trick? Or something else?

demoncyclist

An adjustable pin spanner will do the trick nicely.

coupster

You need 2 tools. Lock ring tool or c-spanner (Park HCW-2 is the best IMHO, if you can find one - they're discontinued) and a pin spanner (Park SPA-1) You may find that grinding down the non pin side a bit will allow you to adjust the bearings without removing the crank arm.

https://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

Bianchigirll 

I don't see the HCW2 on parks website you I would recomend these two tools. https://www.parktool.com/product/cran...t-wrench-hcw-4



https://www.parktool.com/product/cran...t-wrench-hcw-5



FWIW You really should not be removing the fixed cup for routine maintanence. alot of people do but it is called a fixed cup for a reason.

coupster

Sorry about that, but I see that Park stopped production of the HCW-2 awhile ago. The one that you found will work fine. The hinged arm on the old style does a better job at conforming to the circle of the lock ring. Oh well progress is not always for the best.

The SPA-1 pin spanner is more versatile (and probably cheaper) than the HCW-5 because it is flexible. The pins on HCW-5 better fit the spacings of the holes on the adjustable cup or it won't work. But you do get a fixed cup tool in the bargain.

Been wrenching too many years, I guess, all of my go-to tools are NLA.

mikemowbz

Thanks for the replies, all. I've not had to deal with one of these before (more familiar with those new-fangled cartridge BBs).

Fair enough. Not terribly convenient trying to clean up the grease and replace the bearings without doing so, though. Or at least that was my thought. Come to think of it, though, I suppose it wouldn't be too much of a pain scooping out the bearings with my fingers and swabbing out the grease with a rag. Spindle and other cup show no signs of pitting, so I suppose I can probably wager the same for the fixed cup. Just cruddy 20-y.o. grease that needs to go!

Since I'm selling the frame I'm working on now, I might well get away without the tools for the moment. However, I will likely need 'em (to borrow if not to own) in future, as I do have another old Shimano crank with the same style original BB that's going to end up on a SS project sooner or later.

Again, the info is much appreciated!

Bill Kapaun

Typically, if you are going to have ONE bad cup, it'll be the fixed cup. I guess the stresses from pedaling and the chain pull?

It's called a fixed cup because it's not used for adjustment. Not because it's not designed to be removed.

You may have better eyes than me, but I wouldn't consider NOT removing the fixed cup to closely examine it for pitting etc.

The pin spanner on the HCW-4 may or not fit your spacing.
Mine measures about 1.245" outside to outside of the pins w/ .093" diameter pins. So spacing center to center would be 1.245-.093 or "about" 1.15"
.093" is a 3/32" drill size.

mikemowbz

Good to know. I may well pull that cup after all, just to be sure.