wellerchap

Peugeot PH12 from 1982.....aero styling, so cables were routed through the frame tubes.
I want to fully strip & overhaul the bike, but the cables are worrying me a bit.
1). Must I cut off the tip of the brake cables below the adjusters to remove? (bottom pic)
2). Are the black sleeves (top pic) emerging from the holes in the tubing captive to the frame, or will they fall back inside if I remove the inners?
Thanks for any help offered - there may be more silly questions as I get deeper in!

_ForceD_

1 - Yes, remove that lead crimp and pull the cable out from the lever.
2 - The black guide tubing “should” be captive in the frame. But maybe it isn’t. Before pulling anything out, check to see if it moves…as if it might be loose and come out. If it does seem like it’s going to come out…I would somehow fasten a “messenger line”…a string or wire to it that you can pull through that will assist in re-inserting the tubing. Perhaps you want the tubing completely out while you refurbish the bike anyway. The messenger will make getting it back in much easier.

I have an 80s Peugeot Tourmalet, but the internal cable routing is different than what you have pictured. In my case, there isn’t internal tubing like you have. The entire cable housing run through the frame.

Dan

mpetry912 

you may have to remove the bottom bracket to route the cables.

that's not a huge effort if you have the tools - adjustable cup spanner and crank arm extractor

/markp

wellerchap

Thank you chaps, for replying.
I have 2 of these bikes - one has a black frame though, so to paint it I'll probably take the lot out, leaving in a loose wire....the other bike's original and just really needs a good clean, so I may leave in the cables on that.
Good thinking re. the BB....I've removed it already, so will look out for that on rebuild.

Andrew R Stewart 

My concerns are about the handlebars with cable holes in them. Andy

wellerchap

Yes, it will be a delicate job, but I hope to leave in some thinner wire.

grumpus

I don't think I could ride a bike with a drilled handlebar, at least not for long, and definitely not hard - I'd be flinching at every bump and noise.

mpetry912 

Especially with those holes drilled where they are

just sayin

/markp

Andrew R Stewart 

I think you might be missing the point I thought was obvious. There's a reason why most all drop bars gave up on internal cable routing way long ago. Look up stress riser sourced cracks in Al and if bike helmets have face guards. Andy

wellerchap

Sorry, I'd never considered the stress aspect until it was mentioned here - I'm not a hard or frequent rider myself.
I've looked back on threads on this subject - it seems factory-made drilled bars are more acceptable than homemade ones....the bars on the Peugeot I'm working on are Atax D352.....very commonly used, but most are non-drilled....would Peugeot/Atax have simply drilled standard bars for this aero model bike (they were like this from new in '82) ?

Trakhak

Very probably home drilled. Factory-drilled handlebars usually have elongated holes with bulges that serve to guide the housing out of the bar.

In any event, those bars should be retired, regardless of how frequently you ride. The French manufacturers never seemed overly concerned with designing parts for longevity. In the '60's and '70's, we racers took it for granted that you bought French parts for lightness and Campagnolo for durability. And drilled vintage French bars - let's just say that most of us responding here would toss those bars immediately.

wellerchap

The holes on my bars are elongated - the inners of each hole slope diagonally in - the internal cabling was a feature on this bike from factory.

Dave Mayer

Ha! Exactly my first impression.

About 10 years ago I was riding early morning to work and had to cross 6 lanes of busy traffic. No traffic control at this intersection; I was in a life and death game of Frogger - look both ways, time the gaps and accelerate hard.

This day, as I was shooting the gap, I lifted up hard on the Cinelli bars to get more acceleration, and the right side of the bars failed upwards! Yes, the bars snapped as I was pulling up on the brake levers at the hoods. Fortunately I still had enough time to cross, but the rest of the morning, I was buzzing on adrenaline!

Turns out, the bars on this second-hand bike had been drilled in exactly the same way as the pic, leading to a stress riser that was aggravated by moisture and corrosive sweat. Don't drill handlebars.

Ask me about the time I broke a chain at the same location!

Andrew R Stewart 

I have twice seen a rider break his bars at these cable ports in traffic. The sad thing is that it was the same rider... you think one would learn. Over the years of shop wrenching a number more broken handle bars have crossed paths with me. Some with cable holes too. After a while of doing shop work one decides to not encourage what has gone bad before. Andy