opinions on this for first track bike
#1
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opinions on this for first track bike
#2
Senior Member
If it fits you, it will work fine.
One thing that stands out to me is the 175 crank length. I prefer shorter, but these may work for you.
Pick up a 14 tooth cog and 49, 50, and 51 chainrings and you'll have a kit that should take you through a few year's racing!
Welcome to the forum!
PI
One thing that stands out to me is the 175 crank length. I prefer shorter, but these may work for you.
Pick up a 14 tooth cog and 49, 50, and 51 chainrings and you'll have a kit that should take you through a few year's racing!
Welcome to the forum!
PI
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
If it fits you, it will work fine.
One thing that stands out to me is the 175 crank length. I prefer shorter, but these may work for you.
Pick up a 14 tooth cog and 49, 50, and 51 chainrings and you'll have a kit that should take you through a few year's racing!
Welcome to the forum!
PI
One thing that stands out to me is the 175 crank length. I prefer shorter, but these may work for you.
Pick up a 14 tooth cog and 49, 50, and 51 chainrings and you'll have a kit that should take you through a few year's racing!
Welcome to the forum!
PI
Thanks for the reply. It should fit OK, although not sure what I may need in the end for size, I just figure its within my road fit and its cheap lol. I also came across this https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik...219047682.html Of course would need to remove the stickers lol. If these are about what the going price is on bikes im Ok I just dont know what the price ranges are as I dont know whats decent or not.
#4
Senior Member
For your first track bike to start racing the Argon18 will be fine. Also curious about the crank length - very odd for a track bike.
Sizing matching your road bike is a good starting point and how I bought my first track bike. Have gone slightly longer in the top tube since
Sizing matching your road bike is a good starting point and how I bought my first track bike. Have gone slightly longer in the top tube since
#5
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Thread Starter
For your first track bike to start racing the Argon18 will be fine. Also curious about the crank length - very odd for a track bike.
Sizing matching your road bike is a good starting point and how I bought my first track bike. Have gone slightly longer in the top tube since
Sizing matching your road bike is a good starting point and how I bought my first track bike. Have gone slightly longer in the top tube since
Thanks for the reply. You guys got me thinking about the cranks, and now the more I think about it ,the wheels. Both would need to be replaced. So not such a great deal all considered. I joined the local track message board and I will ask there for anyone selling, see what happens. I wanted to get a bike last year but couldnt at the time, then the rona came. Now winter is coming and the track just started to open with limitations so no rush.
#6
Senior Member
What are you seeing wrong with the wheels? Only looking via my phone so can't see a high resolution photo, but look like typical flip-flop clinchers which will be fine with suitable tyres.
Cranks will work to start with as long as your local velodrome isn't too steep (are they 144bcd?) but more typical to ride 170mm or shorter.
Leads through local track boards is a great idea. The bike above still looks okay to me and will get you started.
Cranks will work to start with as long as your local velodrome isn't too steep (are they 144bcd?) but more typical to ride 170mm or shorter.
Leads through local track boards is a great idea. The bike above still looks okay to me and will get you started.
Last edited by Dalai; 10-25-20 at 03:19 PM.
#7
Senior Member
I'm in agreement with Dalai, there's nothing wrong with the wheels. That wheelset should take you through the cat 5 and 4 fields. When you get to cat 3, think about a better race wheelset and keep those for warmup and training.
Either bike would be fine. For the Bianchi, you'll need new handlebars, tires and a bolt on front wheel. Or a skewer that has an allen bolt on it instead of a quick release. For the Argon 18 you'll want to get an appropriate crank in 144 BCD. So factor that into your decision.
I think starting with what you know works for you now, sizing wise is a good start. you can always tweak the fit with stem length, handlebar drop and reach, etc. Either one of those bikes should take you at least as far as cat 3.
Looking at the price of each, the Argon would be mine by now.
PI
Either bike would be fine. For the Bianchi, you'll need new handlebars, tires and a bolt on front wheel. Or a skewer that has an allen bolt on it instead of a quick release. For the Argon 18 you'll want to get an appropriate crank in 144 BCD. So factor that into your decision.
I think starting with what you know works for you now, sizing wise is a good start. you can always tweak the fit with stem length, handlebar drop and reach, etc. Either one of those bikes should take you at least as far as cat 3.
Looking at the price of each, the Argon would be mine by now.
PI
#8
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The Argon 18 is the better of the two though as others mentioned the crank could be problematic especially for a new rider on a short track. Kissena in Queens is a 500m track so 175 would be reasonably safe with it's shallow banks. Trexler is I think 300m and is noticably steeper. CA has 250m tracks which are the standard and have the steepest banks but until you get comfortable leaning through the banking and keeping your speed up then the longer cranks have a high chance of hitting the track and crashing you. 144 bcd cranks are traditional but you'll be fine with 130bcd. Miche makes a nice, affordable option. Sram Omnium is popular but recently discontinued and harder to find. Plus side is the DA crank on the Argon should be easy to flip.
#9
Senior Member
The reason lots of folks here will recommend a 144bcd crank is because pretty much everyone you'll be racing with uses them.
If you need to borrow a chain ring and you have 130bcd you'll probably be out of luck.
The cranks on the Argon look like Sugino Messenger or something similar.
The Omniums are decent, Sugino 75's are or Dura Ace are probably the best you can get.
PI
If you need to borrow a chain ring and you have 130bcd you'll probably be out of luck.
The cranks on the Argon look like Sugino Messenger or something similar.
The Omniums are decent, Sugino 75's are or Dura Ace are probably the best you can get.
PI
#10
Senior Member
I wouldn't worry about either the cranks or the wheels.
Seeing as you're looking at that size of bike, I think that 175s are fine and would think that maybe that's the same size you're running on your road bike as well. I ran 175s for many years with zero issues on even very steep tracks. I'm self experimenting with 165s ATM, but due to a whole mess of life, bushfires and Covid, I haven't given them a solid longer term workout so the jury is still out for me just yet. I have kept my 175s in case the experiment fails.
If you become immersed in track like so many here, I think that you will want to upgrade your frame as much as the rest of the parts on the bike. You could look at that in 2 ways. Either ride the hell out of the Argon and upgrade it with a whole new bike later on that will likely come with the nicer bits already hanging off it. Or piece by piece upgrade parts and then carry them over to a new ride if you upgrade it (keep the old bits and sell them with the Argon when you do). It won't be until you get a long way down the line of racing grades that the bits will actually begin to matter to your results.
Seeing as you're looking at that size of bike, I think that 175s are fine and would think that maybe that's the same size you're running on your road bike as well. I ran 175s for many years with zero issues on even very steep tracks. I'm self experimenting with 165s ATM, but due to a whole mess of life, bushfires and Covid, I haven't given them a solid longer term workout so the jury is still out for me just yet. I have kept my 175s in case the experiment fails.
If you become immersed in track like so many here, I think that you will want to upgrade your frame as much as the rest of the parts on the bike. You could look at that in 2 ways. Either ride the hell out of the Argon and upgrade it with a whole new bike later on that will likely come with the nicer bits already hanging off it. Or piece by piece upgrade parts and then carry them over to a new ride if you upgrade it (keep the old bits and sell them with the Argon when you do). It won't be until you get a long way down the line of racing grades that the bits will actually begin to matter to your results.
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Get the Argon if it fits.
Don't worry too much about the crankarm length or wheels yet. If you really get into track racing, then worry about replacing them. But for now, they will be fine.
Don't worry too much about the crankarm length or wheels yet. If you really get into track racing, then worry about replacing them. But for now, they will be fine.
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Crank arms are an issue here, but our steepest track is 51 degrees. Just check that along with bottom bracket height on the steepest track you go to. Can you stand the bike vertical on the inside of the turn without hitting the track? Kinda sucks when you do (it lifts the rear wheel off the track in the middle of the turn). My first bike had a 62mm BB drop, and that was a PITA even with short cranks on a 44degree track.
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I believe that bike is around 10 or more years old. Which might explain the low price. But, it looks to be in like-new condition, so it's a great bike for a great price. Maybe someone bought it new, tried the track, but didn't use it much.
I'd consider it a mid-level bike. Especially if you add some modern narrow bars and maybe a front deep carbon wheel.
I've seen people have won elite national championships on such.
I'd consider it a mid-level bike. Especially if you add some modern narrow bars and maybe a front deep carbon wheel.
I've seen people have won elite national championships on such.
#18
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Yeah its older but looks brand new. I couldnt find a mark on it. I wanted to just blow a load on a vleo-flyer but I figure this was the smarter move for a noob. I may get some wheels down the road when I figure out what I am doing lol.