Strange Seat Bolts - 1987 Schwinn Tempo
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Strange Seat Bolts - 1987 Schwinn Tempo
Hey all-
Snapped up a 1987 Schwinn Tempo off CL for $150 and am trying to put some upgrades in.
In working on the seat,however, Ive come across a bolt ive never seen before
It looks like I need two wrenches for this. When I turn one bolt, it locks in place on the other side. Is that true that I need to turn each bolt at the same time?
Also, the seat itself has a bolt that is completely stuck.
Any tips for getting it off? It is a tough angle to get any leverage.
Snapped up a 1987 Schwinn Tempo off CL for $150 and am trying to put some upgrades in.
In working on the seat,however, Ive come across a bolt ive never seen before
It looks like I need two wrenches for this. When I turn one bolt, it locks in place on the other side. Is that true that I need to turn each bolt at the same time?
Also, the seat itself has a bolt that is completely stuck.
Any tips for getting it off? It is a tough angle to get any leverage.
#2
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The Sugino seat lug binder bolt is usually keyed on one side and should not require two wrenches but the key may be stripped so you'll need two. Not difficult, just twist in opposite directions.
For the seat clamp get a long L-shaped 6mm Allen, put the short end into the bolt, use the long arm for leverage and put some muscle on it. Should come loose.
The general condition of the bike looks good so I would not expect any corrosion to be present. It's possible that someone in the bike's sordid past used Loctite on the threads, so you might be screwed. Heat helps loosen Loctited fasteners but the company makes all strengths of product and one drop of the wrong stuff could spell certain doom.
For the seat clamp get a long L-shaped 6mm Allen, put the short end into the bolt, use the long arm for leverage and put some muscle on it. Should come loose.
The general condition of the bike looks good so I would not expect any corrosion to be present. It's possible that someone in the bike's sordid past used Loctite on the threads, so you might be screwed. Heat helps loosen Loctited fasteners but the company makes all strengths of product and one drop of the wrong stuff could spell certain doom.
Last edited by thumpism; 11-18-16 at 07:07 AM.
#3
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The Sugino seat lug binder bolt is usually keyed on one side and should not require two wrenches but the key may be stripped so you'll need two. Not difficult, just twist in opposite directions.
For the seat clamp get a long L-shaped 6mm Allen, put the short end into the bolt, use the long arm for leverage and put some muscle on it. Should come loose.
The general condition of the bike looks good so I would not expect any corrosion to be present. It's possible that someone in the bike's sordid past used Loctite on the threads, so you might be screwed. Heat helps loosen Loctited fasteners but the company makes all strengths of product and one drop of the wrong stuff could spell certain doom.
For the seat clamp get a long L-shaped 6mm Allen, put the short end into the bolt, use the long arm for leverage and put some muscle on it. Should come loose.
The general condition of the bike looks good so I would not expect any corrosion to be present. It's possible that someone in the bike's sordid past used Loctite on the threads, so you might be screwed. Heat helps loosen Loctited fasteners but the company makes all strengths of product and one drop of the wrong stuff could spell certain doom.
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On the seat post binder, one side is a bolt and the other side is a keyed barrel nut. Unless the nut or frame is damaged, it can be adjusted only from the bolt side which is usually (and on some frames can only be) on the drive side. To be certain look through the slot to determine which side is the bolt or look for threading inside the allen head.
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You don't even need to twist in opposite directions. Just hold one side in place and unscrew the other side.
#6
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A used bike I suspect .. Re saddle clamp bolt,, buy a longer 6mm L type 'allen' wrench
remember to think backwards when dealing with a bolt that is upside down from your perspective..
you may be tightening it instead of loosening it.
...
remember to think backwards when dealing with a bolt that is upside down from your perspective..
you may be tightening it instead of loosening it.
...
#7
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You might want to take those burrs off of the inside of the seat tube so they do not tear up the seat post any more than it already is.
#8
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Thanks for all the tips, everyone.
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#10
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Well that's weird. Lucky it's an aesthetic thing. The bolt came off the conventional way with a little lube and muscle and i was able to get my new Ergon SR3 (which I got a ridiculous deal on at Nashbar) installed.
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The mark was made by the points on the clamp. It's bent in just enough to put more pressure on the seat post than the rest of the clamp does, so when the bolt was loosened/removed, the post was still held in place.
#12
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is that anything I should be concerned about regarding structural safety?
#13
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The clamp is steel. With the seatpost out, you can feel the points that gouged the aluminum post. If you were really worried about it, you could polish out the marks, but I wouldn't bother.
#14
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good to know. The snow has started to fall here, so the winter repair season has begun. Maybe I will try polishing out that scratch.
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