Renold Chain Gunk
#26
Standard Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,272
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1297 Post(s)
Liked 940 Times
in
490 Posts
Paul, pictures of the chain in question and the embedded gunk would be helpful. As much as anything, all of us, @merziac included, have not fully experienced what you describe.
__________________
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
#27
Standard Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,272
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1297 Post(s)
Liked 940 Times
in
490 Posts
That's disturbing. What is the history of this chain, and is that rust, or caked-on grease? It looks like just rust. There is no rust on my chain, so I do not see how your comment and photo are pertinent to my query.
__________________
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,794
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3513 Post(s)
Liked 2,927 Times
in
1,776 Posts
#29
Standard Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,272
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1297 Post(s)
Liked 940 Times
in
490 Posts
I highly doubt that. In my experience with thousands of chains in every conceivable condition, when someone says they've been "a little heavy on the oil," it really means way too heavy. Sort of like the guy who's been pulled over by the cops and says he's only had one beer.
__________________
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20,305
Mentioned: 130 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3464 Post(s)
Liked 2,831 Times
in
1,997 Posts
and to think we used that 55 years ago as kids with so little thought...
Regina chains also were packaged with a tenacious goo, we used Chevron 325 solvent then, long off the market.
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,304
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1143 Post(s)
Liked 1,748 Times
in
965 Posts
Ill have a pictures in a few minutes
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,794
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3513 Post(s)
Liked 2,927 Times
in
1,776 Posts
Yes. Your chain is made of some mythical special steel that somehow turns a heavy coating of oil into something that needs to be chiseled off. Makes perfect sense.
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,046
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4512 Post(s)
Liked 6,387 Times
in
3,672 Posts
You're not listening. I soaked the chain in Coleman fuel overnight. It had no effect. I do not own these types of brushes, but could have gone at it with a stainless steel sponge, but two problems; my finger-tips would have been rubbed raw within five links and I can do a much-more-thorough job with the knife.
I was not asking for tips on how to clean a caked-up chain. What I sought an answer for is the question: "Are older chains more susceptible to being caked-up?".
A Scotch-Brite pad? Are you kidding?
I was not asking for tips on how to clean a caked-up chain. What I sought an answer for is the question: "Are older chains more susceptible to being caked-up?".
A Scotch-Brite pad? Are you kidding?
I have never encountered any chain that required link by link scraping.
Brushes are easily sourced at auto parts stores, HD, most hardware stores, Harbor Freight and many others.
And yes, Scothbrite has scrubbed many a nasty chain after a good soak with the right cleaner, I often have great results.
This was mainly rusty but also had caked on, petrified goo as well.
I had no delusions about it still being sound for real use but wanted to salvage it for display at least being a drilled version from way back.
It actually works just fine and looks pretty good IMO.
Before
After
#35
Senior Member
OP lives in Maine, not California, so I am confused by the discussion of CA-approved solvents. Does Maine have similar limitations? If not, mineral spirits and non-acetone paint thinner can be had in the paint store.
I've found acetone to be less than stellar (ineffective) at removing the "crud".
The dreaded gasoline works really well at removing old, build up crud. Just be careful using it - gloves are 100% mandatory, use outdoors ONLY.
BBQ lighter fluid also works well at removing crud. WD-40 can be purchased in 1 gallon unpressurized containers, so that would also work.
I soak the coiled chain, laying it flat, in an oil drain pan containing some solvent. This will soften the crud.
Tip the pan at a small an angle so the solvent and loosened crud run to one side. I scrub every link with a tooth brush, one at a time. Every link gets scrubbed, top, bottom, both side plates. It is repetitive work but not difficult.
When finished, flush with clean solvent and hang the chain vertically in the sunlight to drip and dry.
Lube every single link, one at a time and articulate the chain to distribute the lube and also to find any tight/bound-up links.
Wipe with a clean rag to remove the excess lube.
This is a maintenance activity my bike is in need of right now.
I've found acetone to be less than stellar (ineffective) at removing the "crud".
The dreaded gasoline works really well at removing old, build up crud. Just be careful using it - gloves are 100% mandatory, use outdoors ONLY.
BBQ lighter fluid also works well at removing crud. WD-40 can be purchased in 1 gallon unpressurized containers, so that would also work.
I soak the coiled chain, laying it flat, in an oil drain pan containing some solvent. This will soften the crud.
Tip the pan at a small an angle so the solvent and loosened crud run to one side. I scrub every link with a tooth brush, one at a time. Every link gets scrubbed, top, bottom, both side plates. It is repetitive work but not difficult.
When finished, flush with clean solvent and hang the chain vertically in the sunlight to drip and dry.
Lube every single link, one at a time and articulate the chain to distribute the lube and also to find any tight/bound-up links.
Wipe with a clean rag to remove the excess lube.
This is a maintenance activity my bike is in need of right now.
Likes For Bad Lag:
#36
Standard Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,272
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1297 Post(s)
Liked 940 Times
in
490 Posts
I have a bike that was quipped, still is with a Renold chain. As I wrote earlier, the chain was coated with a lube that decades on was as close as I can recall to the cosmoline that overseas shipped parts from the UK were coated with. It was prior to the pandemic, I started with marine diesel and that started the job, then gasoline... outside protected up and not recommended. It does the job.
and to think we used that 55 years ago as kids with so little thought...
Regina chains also were packaged with a tenacious goo, we used Chevron 325 solvent then, long off the market.
and to think we used that 55 years ago as kids with so little thought...
Regina chains also were packaged with a tenacious goo, we used Chevron 325 solvent then, long off the market.
__________________
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
#37
Senior Member
If the lube was a wax lube, getting it off requires a different solvent than oil-based lubes. In particular, acetone does not dissolve wax very well but BBQ lighter fluid does.
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,304
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1143 Post(s)
Liked 1,748 Times
in
965 Posts
Lol, the 60 year old Brampton above reads spot on with the chain check.
With the chain that far worn it's probable that more of the OP's drivetrain will need to be replaced.
With the chain that far worn it's probable that more of the OP's drivetrain will need to be replaced.
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20,305
Mentioned: 130 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3464 Post(s)
Liked 2,831 Times
in
1,997 Posts
OP lives in Maine, not California, so I am confused by the discussion of CA-approved solvents. Does Maine have similar limitations? If not, mineral spirits and non-acetone paint thinner can be had in the paint store.
I've found acetone to be less than stellar (ineffective) at removing the "crud".
The dreaded gasoline works really well at removing old, build up crud. Just be careful using it - gloves are 100% mandatory, use outdoors ONLY.
BBQ lighter fluid also works well at removing crud. WD-40 can be purchased in 1 gallon unpressurized containers, so that would also work.
I soak the coiled chain, laying it flat, in an oil drain pan containing some solvent. This will soften the crud.
Tip the pan at a small an angle so the solvent and loosened crud run to one side. I scrub every link with a tooth brush, one at a time. Every link gets scrubbed, top, bottom, both side plates. It is repetitive work but not difficult.
When finished, flush with clean solvent and hang the chain vertically in the sunlight to drip and dry.
Lube every single link, one at a time and articulate the chain to distribute the lube and also to find any tight/bound-up links.
Wipe with a clean rag to remove the excess lube.
This is a maintenance activity my bike is in need of right now.
I've found acetone to be less than stellar (ineffective) at removing the "crud".
The dreaded gasoline works really well at removing old, build up crud. Just be careful using it - gloves are 100% mandatory, use outdoors ONLY.
BBQ lighter fluid also works well at removing crud. WD-40 can be purchased in 1 gallon unpressurized containers, so that would also work.
I soak the coiled chain, laying it flat, in an oil drain pan containing some solvent. This will soften the crud.
Tip the pan at a small an angle so the solvent and loosened crud run to one side. I scrub every link with a tooth brush, one at a time. Every link gets scrubbed, top, bottom, both side plates. It is repetitive work but not difficult.
When finished, flush with clean solvent and hang the chain vertically in the sunlight to drip and dry.
Lube every single link, one at a time and articulate the chain to distribute the lube and also to find any tight/bound-up links.
Wipe with a clean rag to remove the excess lube.
This is a maintenance activity my bike is in need of right now.
Likes For repechage:
#40
Standard Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,272
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1297 Post(s)
Liked 940 Times
in
490 Posts
I forgot to mention that I also used Finish Line Dry with Teflon, sometimes. I have two 1/8" Renolds that didn't cake up like this, then again, I didn't put as many miles on the 3-speed bikes. I haven't used a wax lubricant, but Green Oil, being plant-based, behaves kind of differently. It gets gummy.
__________________
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 3,682
Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1163 Post(s)
Liked 442 Times
in
315 Posts
The one thing that hasn't been mentioned is the use of heat. I use a small crock pot since I am a chain waxer and have noted that liquified paraffin wax dissolves some of the dirt out of my chain when I plunge it in there for re-waxing. If you have a crock pot you could try filling it with hot water and turn the heat on high then place a jar with the solvent of choice in the jar. I think the heat my help loosen the goo. Worth a try.
Better yet, if you happen to have a heated ultrasonic cleaner just laying around, do the same procedure in a filled ultrasonic tank brought up to hot temp and put the solvent filled jar with the chain into it into the ultrasonic. I ruined my 3.5 gallon ultrasonic cleaner unfortunately and it no longer heats up like it did, and the ultrasonic action is just a fraction of what it was when it was new (long sad story for another chain thread).
Better yet, if you happen to have a heated ultrasonic cleaner just laying around, do the same procedure in a filled ultrasonic tank brought up to hot temp and put the solvent filled jar with the chain into it into the ultrasonic. I ruined my 3.5 gallon ultrasonic cleaner unfortunately and it no longer heats up like it did, and the ultrasonic action is just a fraction of what it was when it was new (long sad story for another chain thread).
Likes For masi61:
#42
Standard Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,272
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1297 Post(s)
Liked 940 Times
in
490 Posts
That's a bit of a stretch (emoticon with blank expression). My Barnard was giving me some grinding in low gear just the other day and I just replaced the chain and I am now fine. That's a Maillard 4-speed freewheel with about the same amount of wear as on my 5-speed(s). It took a N.O.S. Sram PC48 with no problem and now runs fine. I'm going to pop a Sram PC850 on the Grubb (bike I took the Renold off of) next week and let you all know how it rides. Do you know where I can get N.O.S. Atom/Maillard sprockets? I could especially use some 14T and 28T.
__________________
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
#43
Standard Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,272
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1297 Post(s)
Liked 940 Times
in
490 Posts
The one thing that hasn't been mentioned is the use of heat. I use a small crock pot since I am a chain waxer and have noted that liquified paraffin wax dissolves some of the dirt out of my chain when I plunge it in there for re-waxing. If you have a crock pot you could try filling it with hot water and turn the heat on high then place a jar with the solvent of choice in the jar. I think the heat my help loosen the goo. Worth a try.
Better yet, if you happen to have a heated ultrasonic cleaner just laying around, do the same procedure in a filled ultrasonic tank brought up to hot temp and put the solvent filled jar with the chain into it into the ultrasonic. I ruined my 3.5 gallon ultrasonic cleaner unfortunately and it no longer heats up like it did, and the ultrasonic action is just a fraction of what it was when it was new (long sad story for another chain thread).
Better yet, if you happen to have a heated ultrasonic cleaner just laying around, do the same procedure in a filled ultrasonic tank brought up to hot temp and put the solvent filled jar with the chain into it into the ultrasonic. I ruined my 3.5 gallon ultrasonic cleaner unfortunately and it no longer heats up like it did, and the ultrasonic action is just a fraction of what it was when it was new (long sad story for another chain thread).
__________________
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Last edited by 1989Pre; 04-27-23 at 02:58 PM.
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 3,682
Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1163 Post(s)
Liked 442 Times
in
315 Posts
I can't be real scientific here - sort of trial an error. If you have an old crock pot you could play around with it and make a sort of double boiler apparatus where you place a solvent filled container with a chain in it into the hot water bath and agitate the solvent filled container while in the hot water bath to check your results. If the solvent turns black you could drain off the dirty and add clean solvent, repeating multiple times with brushing/scraping between cycles to help things along.
Likes For masi61:
#45
Standard Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 4,272
Bikes: 1948 P. Barnard & Son, 1962 Rudge Sports, 1963 Freddie Grubb Routier, 1980 Manufrance Hirondelle, 1983 F. Moser Sprint, 1989 Raleigh Technium Pre, 2001 Raleigh M80
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1297 Post(s)
Liked 940 Times
in
490 Posts
I can't be real scientific here - sort of trial an error. If you have an old crock pot you could play around with it and make a sort of double boiler apparatus where you place a solvent filled container with a chain in it into the hot water bath and agitate the solvent filled container while in the hot water bath to check your results. If the solvent turns black you could drain off the dirty and add clean solvent, repeating multiple times with brushing/scraping between cycles to help things along.
__________________
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Likes For 1989Pre:
#47
Freewheel Medic
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: An Island on the Coast of GA!
Posts: 12,885
Bikes: Snazzy* Schwinns, Classy Cannondales & a Super Pro Aero Lotus (* Ed.)
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1453 Post(s)
Liked 2,196 Times
in
963 Posts
Already working on it for Paul. However, I'm away for the weekend and won't be able to check for spares until Monday.
__________________
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
#48
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,790
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3590 Post(s)
Liked 3,401 Times
in
1,935 Posts
Wire wheel works well for removing caked on gunk. "Before" section is after the chain had soaked in solvent and brushed with plastic-bristle brush. "After" section is after the wire wheel:
Likes For JohnDThompson:
#49
Senior Member
1989pre - This thread prompted me to clean my drive train. I ended up cleaning the rest of the bike, too.
Holy cow, the chain, freewheel and chain rings of mine were DIRTY! I had half a beach of sand on the chain.
I used 40:1 premix gasoline for two stroke engines. It cleans but does not leave anything unprotected. I wore gloves and worked outdoors.
I used Phil Tenacious oil to relube the chain after it dried.
Holy cow, the chain, freewheel and chain rings of mine were DIRTY! I had half a beach of sand on the chain.
I used 40:1 premix gasoline for two stroke engines. It cleans but does not leave anything unprotected. I wore gloves and worked outdoors.
I used Phil Tenacious oil to relube the chain after it dried.