Lace a Brooks On-The-Cheap?
10-14-23, 11:18 AM
#26
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10-15-23, 04:57 AM
#27
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Nor did they punch-out the hole rows after they had put the cover on the saddle frame. Pulling and twisting to gain access to the under-neath is not optimal, especially for dried leather from (Sturmey era) 1980's.
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10-15-23, 07:56 AM
#28
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On that bridge-plate saddle, did you add a layer of leather to the top? I'm guessing so, and that would explain your line of bolts along the bottom edge between the cantle and the plate, and use of longer bolts rather than rivets to securethe top to the cantle. Given all that theorizing, how does it feel? And what modern model of Brooks would have the same cantle width as yours?
10-15-23, 08:21 AM
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I have laced old Brooks saddles to prevent the skirts from flaring out. Two holes per side is plenty for that, not too close to the sides. I've also had luck soaking the whole thing in room-temperature water for a few hours, then reshaping the saddle, with straps and stuffing it with newspaper as it dries. That can work surprisingly well.
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Last edited by jeirvine; 10-15-23 at 09:00 AM.
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10-15-23, 01:44 PM
#31
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Regarding those saddles above, I really like the idea of using coins instead of washers but the workmanship is not good and the protruding Allen heads are just not okay by me (potentially hurtful/injurious to the rider). Even a shallow pan head or a true rivet would be better (smooth surface).
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Different people have different contexts.
Last edited by Bad Lag; 10-15-23 at 03:39 PM.
10-15-23, 03:36 PM
#32
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10-18-23, 05:34 PM
#33
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Brooks intransigence
Brooks refuse to sell leather skins. They sell everything else as spares except the important bit.
The metal bridge is a feature on the Swallow model. In the photo I used a piece of aluminium and simple bolts ,nuts and washers. It works just fine.
Riveting the nose cone is difficult as two of the rivets are horizontal and a very solid one-of-a-kind jig is needed.
Soaking leather in water and stretching works well if you tighten a little at a time and water doesn't seem to weaken the leather.
Use the dubbing sparingly, a teaspoon every 12 months is plenty.
The metal bridge is a feature on the Swallow model. In the photo I used a piece of aluminium and simple bolts ,nuts and washers. It works just fine.
Riveting the nose cone is difficult as two of the rivets are horizontal and a very solid one-of-a-kind jig is needed.
Soaking leather in water and stretching works well if you tighten a little at a time and water doesn't seem to weaken the leather.
Use the dubbing sparingly, a teaspoon every 12 months is plenty.
Last edited by Johno59; 10-18-23 at 07:30 PM.
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10-18-23, 06:38 PM
#34
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I have an inexpensive leather punch and would use that. It is fast and cuts clean holes and is easy to use for the side of a saddle. Placement is not as precise as I might like, so I would work out how to do that.
If I were drilling holes in leather, I would use a "brad point bit" (I have a set for woodworking). These have a central point for locating the hole but cut very clean holes because they cut starting at the perimeter (not the center).
If I were drilling holes in leather, I would use a "brad point bit" (I have a set for woodworking). These have a central point for locating the hole but cut very clean holes because they cut starting at the perimeter (not the center).
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10-18-23, 09:31 PM
#35
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