veganbikes

That might be the case but I feel like we did adjust in different gears I will need a bike and my phone to do it and unfortunately I don't have that at the moment would love to build a Di2 that is 12 speed but alas no funds for a while.

Kontact 

You can adjust from any gear, but you aren't individually adjusting each gear.

veganbikes

I cannot recall honestly I could swear we did it gear to gear but the more I think on it the more that does sound off but again we did it once a couple months ago and it was such a short easy process I forgot and haven't had a chance to do it again.

Koyote

Yeah, I think this is correct. It can be indexed in any gear, but it is still just indexing.

rm -rf

Front Di2:
I had the local shop install my new 8050 rear derailleur, since my 2014 6850 charger wasn't compatible with firmware updates to it! It didn't shift perfectly when they finished, so I think they messed around with both front and rear derailleur. It sortof worked, but not perfectly.

I used the Di2 manual and re-did the front setup and alignment. I fixed it!
The front cage was just slightly off parallel to the chainring. Barely off, but that was enough to make the chain rub in the lowest gears. It's fine now. (I never had to adjust the front derailleur in 9 years other than this.)

"Couldn't shift at all.."
There "crash mode", that stops the rear from shifting at all if it detects a crash (I think it sees high resistance when attempting to change gears in the back?) or if the chain jams in the derailleur arm.
This has happened to two different riders on group rides I was riding. I have to google the simple fix: Hold the junction box button for 5 seconds. The light flashes red. Lift the rear wheel off the ground and spin the crank. It will cycle through all the cogs and then it's reset!

Russ Roth

I'd almost wonder if there isn't the chance that you'd have more trouble with Di2, though others with more experience might know better. On sat a group leader in a ride I was involved in laid do their bike, less of a crash and more of a slow speed fall over, and bent the der hanger. According to the rider his Di2 had been shifting perfectly pre-crash but after straightening the hanger I had to actually adjust the rear der which wasn't shifting right at all. Tonight I had another rider who dropped their bike and the shifting wasn't working right, hanger tested straight but the der needed to be tweaked to get it lined up better. Just wondering with the Di2 if the servos that move the hanger don't get bumped out of adjustment with a good hit, though I've never seen a similar occurrence with AXS. My middle kid has some noticeable scarring on her Rival AXS rear der from laying it down in cross races and letting the bike drop but I've never had to adjust the alignment on her rear der or any of the kids. Also never touched either bike prior to tonight so who knows if either was shifting as perfectly as they should have been, and the first bike's owner made a point tonight of commenting on how well it actually worked, and maybe the Di2 was always a little off.

jgwilliams

Well, I just had to go and check. On mine, it's definitely a single adjustment for all gears. I've got the new 105 groupset which is obviously bottom of the Di2 range. Ultegra or Dura-Ace might be different.

mschwett 

yeah - i have 12 speed di2 dura-ace and ultegra and the adjustment isn’t specific to one cog. micro adjust on the RD is a single adjustment. on the FD, it takes into account the range from big to small in the rear for the trim, but i’m not aware of anything on the RD electronic adjustments that is specific to any individual cog or subset of cogs.

Koyote

Yep. You can put it in any gear combo and then adjust the indexing, which will always work fine as long as the der hanger is aligned properly.

There is no need for adjusting each individual gear; no need whatsoever.

Kontact 

Single adjustment meaning you can individually adjust each cog location without affecting the rest of the cog locations? I don't think so.

FBinNY 

How about s single adjustment for ALL the gears? Analogous to how the single barrel adjuster trims all the sprockets in a cable system.

choddo

A single adjustment that affects all gears, I think he meant.

I did find it ambiguous too but he went on to say, “i’m not aware of anything on the RD electronic adjustments that is specific to any individual cog or subset of cogs.”

jgwilliams

No, I meant just a single adjustment that affects all the gears, not a single adjustment for each gear.

Amt0571

Di2 solves some issues that you can solve at home (all cable related issues), while introducing some issues that, sometimes you can't solve (electronic issues).

You should ask yourself why are you bending hangers. I've had to align more than one hanger, but I've never had a hanger that gets bent without an impact on the RD. Barrel adjusters shouldn't move by themselves either...

AMoney

It was informative to read about people's experiences with Di2, particularly in regards to if the derailleur hanger is bent.

I was also wondering, what are people's thoughts on wired vs semi-wireless Di2? My understanding is that semi-wireless Di2 is only an option in the disc brake versions of the 12 speed group sets. For people who have used both, what are your experiences? Are the wires a frequent cause of maintenance for Di2 users?

rm -rf

Wires are trouble free. At the handlebars, under the tape, the Di2 manual says to put a small u-turn near the shifters so the connection isn't stressed if the shifters move a bit on the bars. And there needs to be enough slack to turn the bars all the way (kind of obvious.)

Fishing the wires through the frame and placing a small junction box near the bottom bracket is a lot more work than a wireless connection, of course. And I suppose the new hidden cable handlebars+stem designs make it even more difficult. So wireless shifters are nice.
The Di2 wire in my downtube was making an annoying noise on rough roads, banging into the carbon and echoing. Di2 comes with some custom zip ties to clip onto the wire, to theoretically press the wire against the frame, stopping the noise. It sortof worked. I shoved a few small foam pieces down from the headset to kill the noise. That worked.

AMoney

I've been doing a lot of reading about Di2 but was still wondering about a few things:

- Would the 105 7150 Rear Derailleur work with an otherwise Ultegra Di2 groupset, whether it's wired or semi-wireless?
- Would a 105 crankset work with an otherwise Ultegra Di2 groupset?

I know that with the mechanical groupsets, there is some cross compatibility. It seems like there is less with Di2.

Kontact 

Crankset is not a problem.
Different generations of Di2 have different plug types - three so far - but if the plugs match they should be compatible. At the very least, all the stuff of the same generation should be compatible across groups. I've worked on plenty of bikes with mismatched Di2 derailleurs.

Troul 

IMO, the real benefit of E-shifting is the wireless feature. If wires are needed to be ran, it wouldn't interest me to replace the brifters (especially hydraulic brake type) to go from mechanical to wired electronic. However, if I were changing the group set from a lower quantity of cogs setup to using more cogs (example: 11 speed to 12 speed) then changing the shifters would be required anyway. So a full wireless change would be justifiable.

Steve B.

I have a fully wired road Di2 and a mt bike wired Di2 as well as a wireless AXS on a 2nd mt bike. Once you get the wires and any neccessary junction boxes laid in on Di2 it’s completely forget it’s there time. If doing your own install of a wired Di2 system, you have to deal with getting off the crank and b-bracket in order to get the cables installed. If you have a BSA bottom bracket and have the tools, it’s easy. Then you leave it alone, it needs no further maintenance, probably ever. If you perhaps snag a cable on a derailer, as example, then of course you have to fix that. The AXS system I installed was as easy as breaking the chain, remove old mechanical derailer and shift cable, remove F shifter. Install R derailer, install chain, install F derailer and pair it up electronically. It took about as much time to type this as to install AXS. You potentially have to charge up the AXS derailer batteries more often then a Di2, but it’s an easy removal and charging process, It’s a good move on Shimano’s part to make the shifters wireless on the new 12 spd systems. But if getting a new bike that has Di2, you probably my only change out the battery in 6 years or so, otherwise there’s nothing to do except ride the bike. I have read that having a larger and more powerful battery on Di2 provides for a better and faster shift on the derailer. In operation and comparing a mt bike Di2, vs. a SRAM AXS system, they are pretty much identical in terms of accuracy and reliability, IME. They both shift perfectly.

50PlusCycling

I'm running Di2 on a couple of bikes, and have no complaints. There was a little bit of a learning curve when converting away from mechanical shifting. Choosing the best wire lengths, wire routing, battery location, making sure the connections are properly made, etc. But installation and fine tuning is not difficult, and I love the fast and precise shifting. One of my bikes is a 1x12, the other a 2x11, both systems work beautifully.

AMoney

I want to try to see if there can be a fix to what is going on with my road bike, especially since the shifting issues are mild. However, if I continue to have the issues with my derailleur hanger on this bike semi-frequently, is the only solution to replace the bike? I agree that some hangers are weaker than others. I got rid of a bike several years ago because it had frequent and significant issues with the derailleur hanger. Is there a way to find out if a derailleur hanger design is flimsy before buying a bike?

Kontact 

Online reviews or just looking at it. Flimsy hangers generally look flimsy.

Did you try a Wheels brand replacement hanger?

How about a pic of your hanger? What bike? Do you need to change the name to protect the innocent?

Kai Winters

As Kontact says...flimsy hangers look flimsy...
They generally have large cutouts to save metal which may seem to be stiffer but may be prone to bending under heavy load but you really don't know until it occurs.
Some companies may make better hangers but not sure which ones.
I think there is a company that makes them/some? out of Titanium but I'm unsure...google that sh i t...
Having several spare hangers is always a good idea...I may have posted it earlier but I ride an Aethos '22 model frame and I bought 6 spare hangers just in case...LOL I really wanted three but I guess I hit the order button twice because six came in the mail...oh well as the saying goes...two is one and one is none...

Kontact 

Wheels briefly made stainless steel hangers, but they probably realized that a hanger that doesn't bend definitely destroys the frame. Ti would have the same problem - when the hanger gets twisted it will tear the screws right out of the frame and rip apart the dropout.