Is this normal for a new bike?
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Is this normal for a new bike?
I noticed this a couple days ago...
When moving my bike in my truck, which is the only place i can even think it would get chiiped like that (but cant see HOW) it lays on a padded carpet I have in the bed of my truck. I am very careful to gently set the front fork down on the ground when removing the tire for transport.... however these chips dont seem to add up.. this normal?
This is one of the BIG reasons why I am considering painting the bike this winter.. Maybe color match it with my truck, and add some Trek stickers or something... but these chips actually bother me.
Also, my front tire doesnt 'spin' freely and slow to a 'free' stop if you know what I mean. seems the pads are rubbing, I have adjusted them myself about 4x now, and they continue to come out of 'adjustment' and rub the rim... Though, my other thought was the rim may be bent... but it doesnt look it to me, and Again, I dont see how that possible being the bike is 6days old, and I have been VERY gentle with it. no going down, or up curbs, mainly riding in the street, avoiding the bumps (my body doesnt like jarring) So I dunno....
When moving my bike in my truck, which is the only place i can even think it would get chiiped like that (but cant see HOW) it lays on a padded carpet I have in the bed of my truck. I am very careful to gently set the front fork down on the ground when removing the tire for transport.... however these chips dont seem to add up.. this normal?
This is one of the BIG reasons why I am considering painting the bike this winter.. Maybe color match it with my truck, and add some Trek stickers or something... but these chips actually bother me.
Also, my front tire doesnt 'spin' freely and slow to a 'free' stop if you know what I mean. seems the pads are rubbing, I have adjusted them myself about 4x now, and they continue to come out of 'adjustment' and rub the rim... Though, my other thought was the rim may be bent... but it doesnt look it to me, and Again, I dont see how that possible being the bike is 6days old, and I have been VERY gentle with it. no going down, or up curbs, mainly riding in the street, avoiding the bumps (my body doesnt like jarring) So I dunno....
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Your wheels might be out of true. A bike shop can true them for you, which would fix the rubbing problem.
I'm not sure if the chipping is "normal"...my bike is missing paint, but that's from use. If it's just the paint, I wouldn't worry about it.
I'm not sure if the chipping is "normal"...my bike is missing paint, but that's from use. If it's just the paint, I wouldn't worry about it.
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anodizing should hold up better because it is pigment within the small holes of the aluminum. While paint is just a surface covering, that being said sometimes paint works just as well as anodizing. Also, anodizing can eventually wear off if it is a wear and tear part.
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Your home made paint job won't be nearly as strong as a factory paint job. If you buy the expensive proper paint and build an oven to bake it in you'll be close. Turn the bike over and you won't see the chips.
If you absolutely must paint it, go to an auto paint store and purchase your paint from them. If you don't have an air compressor and paint gun ask if they can make a custom rattlecan using their paint. Don't forget the clearcoat. This will be somewhat pricey. If you can't bake the paint on be prepared to let the bike sit a loooooooong time to reach optimal hardness. I had a beater bike I've repainted three or four times and each time the chips were rampant. The last time I let the bike sit for three months before rebuilding it. It still chips easy. Best to ride the bike and forget the chips on the bottom of the fork. It most likely won't be the last chip. Or the last bike you own. Hell, if you get serious you'll fing that paticular fork to suck and suck hard. You'll want to upgrade. By them you'll have collected a few new chips. Ride the bike. Ignore the chips.
If you absolutely must paint it, go to an auto paint store and purchase your paint from them. If you don't have an air compressor and paint gun ask if they can make a custom rattlecan using their paint. Don't forget the clearcoat. This will be somewhat pricey. If you can't bake the paint on be prepared to let the bike sit a loooooooong time to reach optimal hardness. I had a beater bike I've repainted three or four times and each time the chips were rampant. The last time I let the bike sit for three months before rebuilding it. It still chips easy. Best to ride the bike and forget the chips on the bottom of the fork. It most likely won't be the last chip. Or the last bike you own. Hell, if you get serious you'll fing that paticular fork to suck and suck hard. You'll want to upgrade. By them you'll have collected a few new chips. Ride the bike. Ignore the chips.
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If the pads are not rubbing (though it sounds like they are...), the hub bearings might be too tight, causing the wheel to not spin freely...
As far as painting goes...a local auto body shop might paint it for you at a decent price...powdercoating might be an even better option, it would be more durable than regular paint...
As far as painting goes...a local auto body shop might paint it for you at a decent price...powdercoating might be an even better option, it would be more durable than regular paint...
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#12
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If the wheel is out of true, you can spin it and see the rim move towards and then away from the brake pad on each revolution. New wheels might go out of true when they are first ridden if they were assembled poorly, but after re-truing they should stay true for a long time.
If the wheel rubs the brake pad consistently when you spin it, you might need the shop to adjust the brakes because they may have a little more experience than you at fine adjustments.
If the wheel rubs the brake pad consistently when you spin it, you might need the shop to adjust the brakes because they may have a little more experience than you at fine adjustments.
Last edited by cooker; 05-13-08 at 09:21 PM.
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