pyroguy_3

I am estimating that I will have 600 +/- $ to upgrade my bike with. There is no question as to whether or not I am getting a new fork. I figure I will either luck out and find a decent fox on ebay and have some cash left over, or I'll just blow it all on a fox, either vanilla, tallas, or float. Then my greedy side kicks in and says "what about getting a cheaper fork and then something else too!?" So the question is, do you think the level of overall satisfaction will be greater with a fox **** or with say a Rockshox Reba or tora and a new rear derailleur/wheel set or something else? Basically, fox or no fox? I have heard *almost* absolutely nothing bad about fox (some sort of knocking sound in an earlier model), but then you always get the people ripping on rockshox, marzocchi, and manitou. Just a personal observation.

soccerun8728

before we can help you upgrade, we need to know what is on your bike. Give a list of components that you have on your bike for reference.

blue_neon

Never had a problem with RockShox. Have had many problems with Manitou. Havn't really had too much experience with Marzocchi.

You get what you pay for. Fox is expensive. RockShox make very good forks that are much cheaper aswell. Depends what your budjet is. There is no point spending a heap of money on the top of the line fork if the rest of your bike has low end components...much better to keep it all relative and spend money on other parts of the bike first.

drakemtb

i agree. if you have decent components already then a full priced fork may be your best option. but ya i would definetly go with a fox fork. if you found one on discount, that would be great, but don't plan on it. btw, you will not get a nice fork and a nice wheelset, i would say get a really nice fork OR a really nice wheelset.

colombo357

I'd rather spend the money on a Vanilla RLC ($500) and wait to upgrade other components later.

Nothing worse than wishing you had shelled out a little bit more money for the fork that you really wanted.

Dannihilator

Get the Fox.

pyroguy_3

Okay, sorry about that. Totally forgot to spec out. Brand new drivetrain, Truvativ firex crank, sram chain, good enought cassette, time atac pedals. stock rst gilla-t5. new cane creek headset, new saddle. Other than that all else is stock. What I'm thinking with the wheels, sorry I didn't bring this up in the op, is either replacing the rims, as replacing the hubs looks to be about 300+ for beginning to be something good. But would rebuilding with new rims, and stock hubs even be worth it since my rims are in decent enough condition? So 100-200$ for a set of rims and 400-500$ for a new fork, or straight up ~600$ for a new fork?

pyroguy_3

So what I'm hearing is that getting a great fork will benefit me more in the long run; rather than getting 2 not quite as on-par parts?

blue_neon

Well what rims do you have? Photo's?

DickyJ

What drivetrain?
What frame?

Hard to recomend a fork or componentry for an unknown bike.

pyroguy_3

Since the drivetrain is new, Brand new drivetrain, Truvativ firex crank, sram chain, good enought cassette I'm not worried about it, and since my frame is fine I am also not worried about that. I'm not exactly asking for a fork recommendation outside of whether I should go all out in my fork purchase, or if I should replace my DH20 Alexxrims (sorry again) and go for a cheaper fork. '05 Hardrock by the way, not that it matters except for travel. But would a DH bike have firex cranks...

DickyJ

Who made that assumption?

All 140mm forks. Your hardrock isn't designed for that amount of travel.

This is why I asked.

pyroguy_3

I made this assumption, downhill is not equal to XC, therefore why would one buy an under-equipped part ? And on the topic of travel, may I see your engineering degree and or last pay stub from Specialized Bicycles, please? Unless you can present me with these qualifications I will have to disagree with you with respect to the extra 4 cm of travel significantly affecting my frames strength, as has always been indicated on these forums but which I have never once seen backed up with irrefutable proof as to what caused the failure. Also, the man from whom I purchased the bike, a very-qualified reference, has assured me that switching out a 100mm fork with a 140mm will not harm the frame. Not to mention, on a personal assumption, the fork which I have on now is total piss in that it imparts a much greater impulse, integral of momentum with respect to time, on the frame than a nice plush fox would, despite the added 40mm. Thank you very much for the concern though, I'm really not trying to be a jerk, I swear. I'm simply trying to explain my reasoning. The first part of this post was done with a tinge of humor, but I cannot stand the smiley's so insert some sarcasm or whatever up top. *cringe*

M_S

Strength aside, I hope you're not very attached to your current geometry/handling.

DickyJ

Not talking about frame failure (though that is an increased possibility), more the matter of screwing up the geometry your frame was designed to run at.

If the manufacturers word (and obvious qualification) isn't good enough for you then hey, the guy who makes money from your purchases is probably the guy to listen to.

Quote from the 2005 archive:
FRAMEA1 Premium Aluminum, DT/HT 3D box gusset, forged dropouts with reinforced disc mount and eyelets, replaceable forged alloy derailleur hanger, disc only, designed for 100mm travel fork

DickyJ

Try the F100 series if you like Fox.

blue_neon

Yeh a 140mm fork is going to throw your bike off handling wise to something your not used to at all.

rydaddy

I see kids riding around on the streets with 140mm forks on their hardtails. It's good for a laugh at least.

pyroguy_3

Gotcha DickyJ, thanks for the clarification. It's not exactly that I WANT/NEED a 140mm, just that the fox forks in my price range, with exception of the Talas which is adjustable down to 100mm, all are 140mm travel. The handling difference I think I can tolerate. I really don't think the extra degree or two of rake will affect me too much. But this has digressed a little from my orriginal question: "...getting a great fork will benefit me more in the long run; rather than getting 2 not quite as on-par parts?".

rankin116

Sorry to change the subject, but I have a question about adjustable travel...

I have a 100-130mm adjustable travel, and I was reading up on what is needed to change the travel. One thing I could not find is how the geometry of the fork changes. What I mean is, does going from 130 down to 100 mean that the geometry remains the same and the distance to bottom out is 30mm "higher" than when set up for 130mm travel? I don't know if I am explaining myself well enough. 2005 Fox Float R Air

pyroguy_3

nope. geometry changes because you loose 3cm, which basically lowers the front of your frame. More travel=more rake, which makes steering less responsive.

never

40mm will make a fairly significant difference in the handling of your bike (assuming the fork change will only result in a 40mm change in the A-to-C length). I dropped the front end of my FR hardtail by about 50mm (but only lost 10mm of travel) and it's a completely different bike now...much more fun.

Don't buy a fork just because it is in your price range, buy a fork that suits your needs and riding style.

colombo357

Get the Talas with adjustable travel. Set it to your liking.

Fable

Wow.

dematrix

Get the fox forks for defo!