New CX racer: discies or cantis?
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New CX racer: discies or cantis?
I have plans to build up a CX racer early next season for next year (I prefer to build my bikes up because it's more fun for me than getting something complete). I was going to just get cantilevers so I could swap wheels with my other bikes, but I was highly recommended by someone who races that discs are definitely the way to go.
Given that I live (and will race) in the muddy Pac NW, I understand the benefits of discs, especially for continued performance in mud. Equally, this is a bike that will be expressly a race bike, so the added weight of discs is a downer, and their stopping power isn't so relevant.
So given that Sven Nys still thumps everyone on cantis, and discs are going to become a world-wide phenomenon, which way should I jump?
Given that I live (and will race) in the muddy Pac NW, I understand the benefits of discs, especially for continued performance in mud. Equally, this is a bike that will be expressly a race bike, so the added weight of discs is a downer, and their stopping power isn't so relevant.
So given that Sven Nys still thumps everyone on cantis, and discs are going to become a world-wide phenomenon, which way should I jump?
#2
Banned
the added weight , if you have a lot of run-ups, will add up over the :45' to an hour.. ..
for mud clearance I'd go with wide profile, like TRP EuroX, or paul's neo-retro
Paul has Orings around the pivot bushing to keep the grease from fouling with grit, as fast..
[though you do have the rest of the week to clean and rebuild the bike.. ]
for mud clearance I'd go with wide profile, like TRP EuroX, or paul's neo-retro
Paul has Orings around the pivot bushing to keep the grease from fouling with grit, as fast..
[though you do have the rest of the week to clean and rebuild the bike.. ]
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How soon are you going to be willing to replace this bike. IMO, CX disc brakes aren't fully mature just yet. Everything is either mechanical, kludgy or extremely ugly. I figure they'll have it worked out in a couple of years. In the mean time, I'm happy to race with cantis.
I have disc brakes on my 2013 Kona Jake, which I use for commuting, and they're great for that. I haven't been tempted to race it yet. My 2008 Major Jake still makes me happy in the mud. Of course, my short track mountain bike has V-brakes, so maybe I'm just a Luddite.
I have disc brakes on my 2013 Kona Jake, which I use for commuting, and they're great for that. I haven't been tempted to race it yet. My 2008 Major Jake still makes me happy in the mud. Of course, my short track mountain bike has V-brakes, so maybe I'm just a Luddite.
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I would argue that stopping power is MORE relevant while racing. You'll be carrying more speed into corners and the heavy repeated braking wears your hands down over the course of a race. Discs require less lever force and give you consistent performance, wet or dry. Needless to say, I vote hydraulic discs.
For what its worth, I race cx with canti's and MTB with hydraulic discs. If money weren't an issue I'd run discs on my cx bike in a heartbeat.
For what its worth, I race cx with canti's and MTB with hydraulic discs. If money weren't an issue I'd run discs on my cx bike in a heartbeat.
#5
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Hope UK and TRP TW do a cable to Hydraulic set.. hydraulic masters go under the stem ..
given the Brifters are mechanical,they fill the brake lever body..
Up in the cost-no-object Prototyping DI2 type electronics can go elsewhere,
and so then the Master cylanders can go in the brake lever where the Brifter mech was.
But this is straying from the topic..
On wet turf, on the flat and thru the Mud and sand pits,you slow down quickly
when you stop putting power in.
given the Brifters are mechanical,they fill the brake lever body..
Up in the cost-no-object Prototyping DI2 type electronics can go elsewhere,
and so then the Master cylanders can go in the brake lever where the Brifter mech was.
But this is straying from the topic..
On wet turf, on the flat and thru the Mud and sand pits,you slow down quickly
when you stop putting power in.
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I race ss with a canti bike and my geared bike has discs.
It's pretty much a wash. Heavier and a little better stopping in some situations vs cheaper, a little lighter, and more readily available wheels.
If you know how to build wheels the balance tips a little more towards disc.
It's pretty much a wash. Heavier and a little better stopping in some situations vs cheaper, a little lighter, and more readily available wheels.
If you know how to build wheels the balance tips a little more towards disc.
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If any of the races you do offer neutral pit wheels, you might consider leaning toward cantis though in a couple of years that may change.
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I hadn't even considered that hyd discs weren't out yet for cross bikes...lol. Soon though, it appears:
https://velonews.competitor.com/2012/...in-cxla_267379
https://velonews.competitor.com/2012/...in-cxla_267379
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I hadn't even considered that hyd discs weren't out yet for cross bikes...lol. Soon though, it appears:
https://velonews.competitor.com/2012/...in-cxla_267379
https://velonews.competitor.com/2012/...in-cxla_267379
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Even if they came out today it will still be a few years before I can actually afford them.
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I currently use clinchers, though I use tubulars exclusively on the road. I wanted to try cyclocross before spending a large wedge of cash on special equipment. I'll be getting tubulars for the race bike as I love 'em. I was planning on getting a Chinese frame so perhaps mantis for the next couple of years may be the way to go. Those Sram brake levers are sooo beyond ugly...
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New CX racer: discies or cantis?
There is a shortage of good disc wheels right now. My experience with discs have been mostly negative. We've run into massive pad wear problems in muddy conditions. Cantis tend to last longer.
My guess is that this will all be moot over the next few years as cx hydraulic discs become more mature.
My guess is that this will all be moot over the next few years as cx hydraulic discs become more mature.
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I have discs on my CX bike and while I'm very happy with their stopping power especially in the wet, I'm not so happy with the weight and wheel options available. I do use the bike more as a commuter, gravel rider, etc. so it depends on how you want to use it and how long you want it for. If I wanted a pure race CX bike for immediate use I'd stick with cantis for wheel options, weight and neutral pit support. In a few more years discs will be more mature I imagine.
My MTB has a disc front and V-brake on the back. Perhaps an option too.
My MTB has a disc front and V-brake on the back. Perhaps an option too.
#16
Enock
#17
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on discs for racing CX, maybe less holes in the disc is better.
https://www.cxmagazine.com/ryan-trebo...ors-spy-photos
A simple change. they made them for a high profile sponsored racer,
ask the companies to sell them that way , to the general population too..
https://www.cxmagazine.com/ryan-trebo...ors-spy-photos
A simple change. they made them for a high profile sponsored racer,
ask the companies to sell them that way , to the general population too..
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Added weight (at least in the range we are talking) is nil if you are racing in bad mud. The weight difference half way through the first lap is more dependent on how well your bike sheds mud, not what it weighs clean. Grass/mud mix really likes to latch onto your canti arms/pads. Just something to consider among the other variables.
#19
Enock
I agree with this completely. Any muddy race will add 10lbs of mud fast. I have a disc cross bike that is about 16lbs stock (weight is no issue with disc).
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Bicycling has been turned into a Magical-Techno thing by all the manufacturers that are trying to evolve into the new flavour of the week . Meaning New is saleable and Old is not.
I have a 2011 Kona Jake the Snake with stock canti's. They work, they're lite, and they are simple in design and execution. What more can I say...and, the cost of of my Snake was 1600.00 tax in (Canadian)....I love this machine becuase of it's simple design and I love the ride...Ride Safe.
I have a 2011 Kona Jake the Snake with stock canti's. They work, they're lite, and they are simple in design and execution. What more can I say...and, the cost of of my Snake was 1600.00 tax in (Canadian)....I love this machine becuase of it's simple design and I love the ride...Ride Safe.
#21
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N+1, as seen in the Pros, is how you deal with Mud, & someone else in the Pits to hose off the other bike.
so you get the clean one next lap, or two.
so you get the clean one next lap, or two.
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a not often considered penalty of discs is that to behave as effectively as rim brakes, the fork legs and seatstays must be beefed up more and be heavier. This is because the braking flex on the frame has been moved from large central frame joints with lots of support to extremeties, out on the end of thin frame members. Marketing often presents new equipment as penalty free improvements but in the engineering side nobody gets something for nothing. Im adapting magura hydraulic rim brakes on the tops to work with ergopower for my cross setup
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