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Cost-effective chain lube

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Old 08-02-23, 01:16 PM
  #26  
sean.hwy
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A single mtb/gravel ride requires a cleaning and re lube afterwards or just grinding that into your bike.
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Old 08-02-23, 06:06 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by smd4
I recommend canola, but olive can add a touch of floral aroma with a nice peppery bite.
Finish ! you forgot Finish !

"a lean, dry, astringent FINISH with overtones of chocolate and blackberry"

or whatever

/markp
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Old 08-02-23, 06:16 PM
  #28  
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I have been using the 3in 1 synthetic stuff from the hardware stores for the last couple years. The yellow bottle.
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Old 08-02-23, 07:30 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by sweeks
Hi, Ken!
I've used ProLink for years, and I think I've only ever used one bottle.
My only objection is that it's very runny, and it takes a little concentration to dispense only one drop to each chain link. Not really a big deal.
Chain life is good, and the chain stays fairly clean.
Cheers,
Steve
Well, she brought her bike over and I checked and adjusted the travel limits, shifting, and cable tensions - significantly improved! Then dribbled the ProLink, cranked and wiped and went through the adjustments again. With the mechs moving freely the limits and tensions needed readjustment, but today she went out on her regular ride. Emailed my how nicely and accurately everything moved, so good success. The only thing left open is that the chain jumps when on big - big. I think it needs a little more length, but we didn't talk about getting her a new chain. I don't have any scrap 7-speed links, and I have to talk about a reasonable chain size for an early Shimano 3 x 7 bike. I haven't done anything really intelligent like count the links and make some calculations. Usually people reommend "any decent 8 or 9 speed chain." We'll see what's next.

Ken
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Old 08-02-23, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Road Fan
The only thing left open is that the chain jumps when on big - big. I think it needs a little more length, but we didn't talk about getting her a new chain. I don't have any scrap 7-speed links, and I have to talk about a reasonable chain size for an early Shimano 3 x 7 bike.
Too bad you're so far away. I probably have some left-over links, but it's probably easier to just stay out of the Big-Big.
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Old 08-03-23, 01:00 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Road Fan
Well, she brought her bike over and I checked and adjusted the travel limits, shifting, and cable tensions - significantly improved! Then dribbled the ProLink, cranked and wiped and went through the adjustments again. With the mechs moving freely the limits and tensions needed readjustment, but today she went out on her regular ride. Emailed my how nicely and accurately everything moved, so good success. The only thing left open is that the chain jumps when on big - big. I think it needs a little more length, but we didn't talk about getting her a new chain. I don't have any scrap 7-speed links, and I have to talk about a reasonable chain size for an early Shimano 3 x 7 bike. I haven't done anything really intelligent like count the links and make some calculations. Usually people reommend "any decent 8 or 9 speed chain." We'll see what's next.

Ken
Do you size chain by some sort of calculation? Why not just use the "big-big" sizing protocol.
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Old 08-03-23, 01:20 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Camilo
Do you size chain by some sort of calculation? Why not just use the "big-big" sizing protocol.
that's always worked for me also. I have changed so many crankset, chainrings, 1x to 2x and back etc..
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Old 08-04-23, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Camilo
Do you size chain by some sort of calculation? Why not just use the "big-big" sizing protocol.
I want to fix it, but the interference is odd. So I'm gonna look at the resizing issue with a calculation approach first to try to understand more. The idler wheel looks really big, and I don't know i that's odd, a Shimano tweak o some sort, or what.

I normally put the chain on small-small and look for a certain gap between the chain and the idler wheel. For Campy 50/34 and for triples that's what I usually do.
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Old 08-05-23, 12:13 PM
  #34  
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I recently started using paraffin wax on my chains. Is there a "dry" lube that I could use between waxings that would perform similarly to a just-waxed chain?
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Old 08-05-23, 03:22 PM
  #35  
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for 15 buck just get a Sachs PC-853, have had very good luck with these chains, they shift great and run smoothly.

and have the "magic link" for easy on / off for cleaning

/markp
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Old 08-06-23, 07:11 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by mpetry912
for 15 buck just get a Sachs PC-853, have had very good luck with these chains, they shift great and run smoothly.

and have the "magic link" for easy on / off for cleaning

/markp
Where can you find these?
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Old 08-06-23, 07:28 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by WT160
Where can you find these?
Try looking for a SRAM PC-850 chain. SACHS was purchased by SRAM around the late 90's. PC-850 Chain | CN-850-A1 | SRAM
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Old 08-06-23, 07:48 AM
  #38  
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I got an email today from Blue Sky Cycling, and they currently are selling Shimano 8-speed CN-HG40 chains with the magic link for $10 bucks.
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Old 08-06-23, 04:36 PM
  #39  
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White lightning - wax based
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