jco1385

I got my tax refund and i want to buy some basic bike tools. I want to get a crank puller, cone wrenches, BB tools, and freewheel/cassette tools. I have all of the general mechanics tools, but i don't have anything bike specific. What are the best bang-for-the-buck tools out there? I assume park tools are generally accepted as "good" but i wanted to weigh pros vs cons so i get the best tool for the job. Also, is there anything i left off my list that i should probably go ahead and get?

reptilezs

the park stuff is pretty good for what you want

Vonspanker

For bike specific tools I would go Park or Pedros. For external BB I prefer the one that goes on a socket wrench, provided you have the little plastic deal that only comes on the end of park bb tool. I plan on making an aftermarket little plastic thingy out of metal at some point soon. Get the park square taper BB puller.

Get the Pedros cassette vice, it rocks. Way better than a chain whip. For cassette removal, the one that has the shaft in the middle is nice as it keeps it in position but if you use the tool for putting on the lockring on a shimano centerlock disc rotor on a internal shifting hub you will need the older style with the cutout.

Don't skimp on cable cutters.

Wrenches and screwdrivers only need to be park if you like everything on your tool bench to match. I really like bondhus screwdrivers.

But I'm not someone that ever skimps on tools since I use them a lot. I'm sure that there are people that will tell you that there are cheaper tools out there that will "do just as good". I am of the opinion that you get what you pay for.

Panthers007

Cable-cutter. Shimano or Felco.

fuzz2050

or a dremel with a cut-off wheel.

TassR700

Fourth hand cable puller is a huge help if you do a lot of derailleur installs.

reptilezs

i find the cable puller to be more handy on brake installs rather than derailleurs. i dont bother with it for derailleurs

Al1943

Buy only the tools you are sure you need. Bicycle specs change and so do the required tools.

AdamDZ

Didn't work well for me, even on lowest speed it melted the internal plastic layer. Cheap Nashbar cutter worked better.

A.

AndrewP

Spoke wrench and tensiometer.

ahsposo 

Have you got a good bike stand?

Waves77

Truing stand?

Bubba Zanetti

bike stand

dedhed

good chain tool

kmcrawford111

How about a pedal wrench? That's pretty basic.

I'd also conisder an axle vise since you plan on overhauling hubs. I have the Park AV-4 which has worked very well. I don't see how this job can be done without something like it.

+1 to Park.

+1 to getting a bike stand... I put off buying one for awhile, but now that I have one I find it really is worthwhile.

interested

Crank pullers, BB- and cassette tools can be had with integrated handles or to be used with ordinary crescent wrenches and or ratchet/torque wrenches. The latter solution is more flexible and if you get a torque wrench some day, you don't need new bike tools.

I like my Cyclus Tools, Park Tool, and Campagnolo tools, but I own several OEM branded bike tools of adequate quality. I don't own any Shimano, Unior or "IceToolz/Xpert" (from Lifu) tools, but the quality looks good to me. I am not so hot on Tacx, BBB, Lifu, "Pro Tools" (distributed by Shimano); the general quality and design seems of lower standard than I like. Individual tools from these vendors may be adequate.

A good cable cutter is a very good investment, while a bad one is a source of serious frustration. I have a newer version Park Tool cable cutter, it works for me, but I have to use both hands and a fast power grab to make it cut cable housing nicely. Will probably buy a Knipex/Cyclus Tool cable cutter one day when I have too much money. I will probably buy a fancy chain tool that day too, but my Park Tool CT-5 just work too well that I can justify it otherwise.

I prefer one ended cone wrenches, and in general tools that only have one function. I own both Pedro's, OEM's and Tacx cone wrenches, they all work for me, but the Tacx cone wrenches feels like low quality.

I have a Pedro's 4'th hand tool, but I find it useless, slow and cumbersome. Perhaps it is just the Pedro design that isn't so good, but I get by just fine without it.

I really like my grease gun (with Finish Line teflon grease), makes overhauling hubs a breeze and it makes it easy to apply grease with economy and precision.

I find a chain checker very useful, it may not have the precision of a steel ruler, but they are quick and handy for discovering that a chain is wearing out faster than expected. I have a Park Tool CC-3, but the Shimano TL-CN41 should be one of the more accurate ones since it isn't affected by roller wear; see https://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/0...easuring-tools

While not bike specific, I find that I use my digital caliper a lot, and T-handle hex keys are very nice to work with.

--
Regards

HillRider

Absolutely and I also have the AV-4. You don't hear much about these things but I find it indispensable for hub overhauls. It makes getting the correct bearing adjustments so much faster and easier. You do need a solid bench vise to clamp it in.

+1 to a repair stand. Get a good one.

chico1st

what do you guys think about using multitools such as the Park IB3. It has a chain breaker and I dont need one often. I just maintain 4 bikes so I thought this could cover a bunch of things, and its portable.
any thoughts? So that I dont need to buy a full chain breaker its ok to use this one.

Maybe i should get the MTB3 instead?

noglider 

The good thing about multitools is that they are portable. They don't do the job as well. If you're going to do your repairs at home, buy home tools. Multitools are for when you're going to be doing roadside repairs.

kmcrawford111

It seems a lot of people believe the chain tools on multi-tools don't work very well, but I've never used one.

My personal practice is to not carry a chain tool for my riding, which is 14 mi RT commutes and some recreational rides, but I do check the chain for stretch occasionally with a ruler. I've never had a chain break while riding. Maybe this is more of an issue for true mountain biking or very hilly terrain.

I wouldn't want to carry a bulky multi-tool like the MTB-3 around. For me, I'm all set with a few hex keys/bits, two tire levers, and a 15mm wrench (when I use the bike that doesn't have a QR axle) as far as carry tools. If you're working at home I believe dedicated shop tools are best.

I'm currently carrying a Topeak toolbar, but if I have to replace it I may just go with the individual allen wrenches and two tire levers. The tire levers on it aren't all that great. The park IB-3 looks pretty nice, but even that looks too bulky, and it doesn't have a philips screwdriver and it has only one tire lever.

operator

He may be willing to forego ease of use for bang for the buck.

interested

Don't know these particular multitools, but usually they are only meant for roadside repairs and light use. It doesn't make economic sense in the long run not to own a set of hex keys for home shop use, eg. round off the 4 mm hex key on the multitool and it becomes useless on the road. Buying a multitool is usually much more expensive than than a set of hex keys, so in the long run it make sense to own both kinds.

That said, I own a Topeak Alien II multitool; the chain breaker is excellent (and spare pins can be had!) like the rest of the tool. If one bought a factory/LBS assembled bike many riders could get away with just owning a multitool like Alien II for quite some time for minor adjustment like exchanging a stem and adjusting saddle height.

Another reason to own proper tools beside a multitool is, that some of us sometimes forget to repack things taken from the "on the road toolbox", and then it isn't where it is needed when needed.

--
Regards

joejack951

First, don't cut all the way through at once. Make the cut in a few passes leaving a little time for the plastic to cool off (I wait maybe 10 seconds in between cuts). You can do this with the Dremel at high speed. When finished, the liner will be slightly melted but I use a pair of tweezers with sharp ends to open i back up. Most housing cutters require the metal liner to be reopened which I feel is more of a hassle than poking through a little plastic.

jco1385

all of the bikes i have at this point are square taper BB and both freewheel and cassette hubs. i want to be able to overhaul the entire bike (hub bearings, BB bearings, remove freewheel/cassette) without having to haul it up to the LBS. i am in the process of building a small "bike shop" workshop in my backyard.

bike stand - i plan to build one into the structure of the shop i am building, so i won't need to buy one. any ideas as far as design are welcome, though.

truing stand - i also plan to build one similar to one i saw here made of wood. (anyone have plans for THIS one? 2nd one down)

BB tool - i don't know a lot about BBs. i want a versatile tool that will do most bikes i may get (if that is possible). i'd like to have something i can put on a ratchet as well. i guess i need a tool for cartridge types, as well as loose balls?

Freewheel/Cassette tool - i'm sure i can fab up a couple of chain-whips, but what about (freewheel) lock ring tools? as for cassettes, is there a simple tool for most jobs (cassette vice)?

cable cutters - i haven't had to cut many cables/housings (just got back into bikes since childhood). when i did, though, i used some 9" side-cutter klines and an awl to open it back up. seems like it did a good enough job to me. is this not recommended?

cable puller - i think i can get by without this for now.

spoke wrenches - there are different sizes, correct? park tools a good brand for these?

tension gauge - i don't have the knowledge to build wheels yet, so i can probably hold off on this one.

chain tool - my brother has a crankbrothers multi-tool that does pretty good for what usually need. which shop tool is the best for the price?

pedal wrench - i've been pretty effective with a 15mm wrench and a length of pipe.

cone wrenches - seems like these would all be about the same.

grease gun - i can probably get by without this for now, although it will come in handy i'm sure. maybe later.

chain checker - i have a steel ruler. they are cheap enough

what out of this list is more "essential" for a basic break-down/build-up? i'd like to buy the more basic "core" tools first, and then everything else afterwards.

i tried to cover everything listed in the thread. i'm not trying to spend a fortune on this, but i don't want crap quality tools even if i cant get everything at once. i am also willing to buy multi-use tools (that do more than one job) as long as they are effective. i have all the basic mechanics tools, and i will have a bench vice, and i plan to build a bike stand.

i am actively looking over what was suggested as far as products. also, i'm a sort of n00b about some aspects of repair (like pulling freewheels/cassettes) so i really dont know what all is needed. i plan to read over these procedures before i try and do the actual task, though. i have the park blue book, and website as a reference.

any other suggestions for specific products are very welcomed. i plan to start pulling the trigger on some of this stuff today.

helicomatic

The plans to build that truing stand are sold here: https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php

The Park spoke wrenches are fine, but I'd choose the 3-sided over the "new" 4 sided ones if you're going to get Park's. Same with the chain tool, the Park shop tool is cheap, works on everything not ridiculous, and lasts forever.

For bottom bracket tools, it's only important to get the tools for the bikes you have for now, since there's no "universal" tool. For Shimano cartridge BBs, I recommend the Shimano BB tool, TL-UN72, over any of the ratchet-compatible tools. The square hole has to be so far from the business end to clear the BB spindle that the torque is applied pretty far from the splines, which can make a tool slip easier in a stuck cup.

Park FR-1 and FR-5 handle Shimano freewheels and cassettes, respectively.

Just about any bike-specific cable/housing cutter works OK, some better than others, but all of them better than a dremel. If you want to get fancy you probably already have a flat file to finish the ends.

I would add to your list headset wrenches, assuming you have threaded headsets on some of your bikes.