Rapha Continental Ride - Navajo Country
07-28-09, 07:12 PM
#1
Spin Meister
Thread Starter
Rapha Continental Ride - Navajo Country
Generally, I'm not a Rapha cycling clothing kind of guy. I drive a Ford Ranger, not a Range Rover. I do, though,
enjoy looking over the ever-evolving Rapha website, with its sometimes high falutin ad copy, and it's excellent photography.
A few weeks ago, I found myself on an "epic" Rapha ride in northeastern Arizona, a ride I had designed for
Rapha. Months earlier Rapha had solicited ride ideas for their series of Rapha Continental adventures. Mine was one of 25
submissions chosen.
The ride would take us a little over 100 miles, mostly in a grand circle, from the high desert of Canyon
de Chelly National Monument, with it's Anasazi cliff dwelling ruins and Navajo farms and ranches, to Buffalo
Pass, at 8,400 feet in the Chuska Mountains, close to the Arizona-New Mexico border.
Because I'd chosen a fairly rigorous route, I had thought perhaps I should ride in the support vehicle, given
that the Rapha "team" members are all around 30 and in racing condition, and those are attributes I no
longer have. The trip coordinator, Daniel Wakefield Paisley, believed I could gut out the ride.
I did survive, and I got to wear a what was indeed a terrific Rapha jersey, which was exceedingly comfortable
and felt as if it were tailored just for me. We all enjoyed riding to places that, to the non-Navajo ear, have
exotic-sounding names: Lukachukai, Many Farms, Round Rock, Chinle, Tsaile. We met many friendly locals,
some of whom may have questioned our sanity, and we dinned on Navajo tacos and mutton stew.
Above: A junked car along old Route 66 seemed to say that self-propulsion would be the order of
the next few days.
Above: My friend Jean piloted us through California and on into Arizona, and she served as the support/photography van driver
for Daniel Wakefield Paisely and Michael Robertson. To make this photo, the car going about 60 mph, I simply stuck my hand
out the window and aimed my little camera as best I could back at Jean. The clouds in reflection were a bonus.
Below: The Rapha team van arrived late the night before the right at the Thunderbird Lodge, in Chinle,
just on the edge of Canyon de Chelly. Not terribly early the next morning, the bikes were unloaded,
blue corn pancakes were consumed, and we were finally off, on a July day when temperatures
were expected to reach about 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Luckily, a cloud cover kept the desert
cool for a while, and by mid-day we would climb high into the Chuska Mountains.
Below: The first 30 miles were decidedly level. We were headed north, toward a massive sandstone butte,
and then we'd turn east, toward the mountains. When I'd glance at my cyclometer, I noted we were rocking along
at speeds up to and past 25 mph. We did take a break when the air in Hahn's tire oozed out enough for someone
to notice. I didn't realize it, but in the desert's dry heat, I was slowly being cooked.
Below: As we rolled toward the trading post at Round Rock, we overtook a young Navajo. Oh, wait,
maybe the kid had just overtaken me. I could tell, after our fast start, that I was weakening. The brief
rest stop at Round Rock didn't help much. A few miles beyond it, I started cramping.
Below: When I reached the little community of Lukachukai, with its own trading post, my legs
felt like dead wood, I was sick to my stomach, I was exhausted, and I felt like I was on fire. I wondered how
much walking I would endure to reach the Buffalo Pass, the next major destination on what was supposed to
be a bike ride.
While most of the others were taking their break at a gas station a mile or so behind me, I purchased a giant,
very salty pickle - Navajos and other southwestern Indians seem to love them - and I chomped most of it down
by the time the support van arrived. When it did, I drank a diet Coke, had a Clif Bar, some Gu, and a lot
more Gatorade than I'd been drinking. I also swallowed a couple of electrolyte tablets. To my amazement,
I recovered much of my strength within a few minutes.
By the way, the inside of most trading posts I've visited in Navajo country look like typical convenience stores,
except that they might carry bags of flour, shovels, and of course those pickles.
To reach Buffalo Pass, we headed straight through a break in a phalanx of sandstone monoliths. I don't have
any photographs from the next section of the trip, because the grade reached at least 16% in a few places,
and I didn't have the ability to pull my camera out of my jersey pocket. Although I was the last man up the
mountain, I felt fine; the altitude didn't bother me. And a rest didn't hurt, either, as Hahn suggested
we stop for another pickle not far from the pass. After that, I cruised up to the top, where there were
splendid views out into New Mexico, incluing one of massive Shiprock, an ancient volcanic core,
venerated by the Navajo people.
Above: On the ride back down the mountain, we all had lunch where Hahn and I ate our pickles:
Navajo tacos, burritos, fry bread. We were photographed by the still photographers as well
as by Dave Christenson, the videographer.
Below: Some of us - me among them - were taken by the beauty of the Navajo chef we met at
the food stand (don't tell our wives). After Kansas finished his taco, Cole suggested we climb a sandstone
dome he'd noticed on the way up, a dome that seemed to have some shallow hand and footholds cut into it.
It would have been far safer to have descended the road than it was to clamber up the dome, although the
view from the top made the effort worthwhile.
Below: Back in Lukachukai, we made a few more friends at the Totsoh Trading Post. Hahn sits on the
right, Pierre, the best climber of the day on the left, before heading south for the final 33 miles. Dominic
cooled off by the old ice machine - I'm not sure what effect wearing black had on such a warm day, but he
seemed to weather our ride well.
Hahn flatted for maybe the fourth time - twice in Lukachukai! - and is missing from this group shot. More
often than not I was behind the other riders, but for now we rode a leisurely pace to allow Hahn to catch up
with us. At about 7,000 feet, the air was reasonably cool, and there were still wildflowers along the side of
the road.
We headed west at the road junction below Roof Butte. The route took us under some cooling clouds, and
even a few drops of rain, as we spent a few minutes visiting the northern rim of Canyon de Chelly National
Monument. Then we were off, for a final five-mile downhill run back to the Thunderbird Lodge, showers,
more Navajo tacos and mutton stew, and sleep.
enjoy looking over the ever-evolving Rapha website, with its sometimes high falutin ad copy, and it's excellent photography.
A few weeks ago, I found myself on an "epic" Rapha ride in northeastern Arizona, a ride I had designed for
Rapha. Months earlier Rapha had solicited ride ideas for their series of Rapha Continental adventures. Mine was one of 25
submissions chosen.
The ride would take us a little over 100 miles, mostly in a grand circle, from the high desert of Canyon
de Chelly National Monument, with it's Anasazi cliff dwelling ruins and Navajo farms and ranches, to Buffalo
Pass, at 8,400 feet in the Chuska Mountains, close to the Arizona-New Mexico border.
Because I'd chosen a fairly rigorous route, I had thought perhaps I should ride in the support vehicle, given
that the Rapha "team" members are all around 30 and in racing condition, and those are attributes I no
longer have. The trip coordinator, Daniel Wakefield Paisley, believed I could gut out the ride.
I did survive, and I got to wear a what was indeed a terrific Rapha jersey, which was exceedingly comfortable
and felt as if it were tailored just for me. We all enjoyed riding to places that, to the non-Navajo ear, have
exotic-sounding names: Lukachukai, Many Farms, Round Rock, Chinle, Tsaile. We met many friendly locals,
some of whom may have questioned our sanity, and we dinned on Navajo tacos and mutton stew.
Above: A junked car along old Route 66 seemed to say that self-propulsion would be the order of
the next few days.
Above: My friend Jean piloted us through California and on into Arizona, and she served as the support/photography van driver
for Daniel Wakefield Paisely and Michael Robertson. To make this photo, the car going about 60 mph, I simply stuck my hand
out the window and aimed my little camera as best I could back at Jean. The clouds in reflection were a bonus.
Below: The Rapha team van arrived late the night before the right at the Thunderbird Lodge, in Chinle,
just on the edge of Canyon de Chelly. Not terribly early the next morning, the bikes were unloaded,
blue corn pancakes were consumed, and we were finally off, on a July day when temperatures
were expected to reach about 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Luckily, a cloud cover kept the desert
cool for a while, and by mid-day we would climb high into the Chuska Mountains.
Below: The first 30 miles were decidedly level. We were headed north, toward a massive sandstone butte,
and then we'd turn east, toward the mountains. When I'd glance at my cyclometer, I noted we were rocking along
at speeds up to and past 25 mph. We did take a break when the air in Hahn's tire oozed out enough for someone
to notice. I didn't realize it, but in the desert's dry heat, I was slowly being cooked.
Below: As we rolled toward the trading post at Round Rock, we overtook a young Navajo. Oh, wait,
maybe the kid had just overtaken me. I could tell, after our fast start, that I was weakening. The brief
rest stop at Round Rock didn't help much. A few miles beyond it, I started cramping.
Below: When I reached the little community of Lukachukai, with its own trading post, my legs
felt like dead wood, I was sick to my stomach, I was exhausted, and I felt like I was on fire. I wondered how
much walking I would endure to reach the Buffalo Pass, the next major destination on what was supposed to
be a bike ride.
While most of the others were taking their break at a gas station a mile or so behind me, I purchased a giant,
very salty pickle - Navajos and other southwestern Indians seem to love them - and I chomped most of it down
by the time the support van arrived. When it did, I drank a diet Coke, had a Clif Bar, some Gu, and a lot
more Gatorade than I'd been drinking. I also swallowed a couple of electrolyte tablets. To my amazement,
I recovered much of my strength within a few minutes.
By the way, the inside of most trading posts I've visited in Navajo country look like typical convenience stores,
except that they might carry bags of flour, shovels, and of course those pickles.
To reach Buffalo Pass, we headed straight through a break in a phalanx of sandstone monoliths. I don't have
any photographs from the next section of the trip, because the grade reached at least 16% in a few places,
and I didn't have the ability to pull my camera out of my jersey pocket. Although I was the last man up the
mountain, I felt fine; the altitude didn't bother me. And a rest didn't hurt, either, as Hahn suggested
we stop for another pickle not far from the pass. After that, I cruised up to the top, where there were
splendid views out into New Mexico, incluing one of massive Shiprock, an ancient volcanic core,
venerated by the Navajo people.
Above: On the ride back down the mountain, we all had lunch where Hahn and I ate our pickles:
Navajo tacos, burritos, fry bread. We were photographed by the still photographers as well
as by Dave Christenson, the videographer.
Below: Some of us - me among them - were taken by the beauty of the Navajo chef we met at
the food stand (don't tell our wives). After Kansas finished his taco, Cole suggested we climb a sandstone
dome he'd noticed on the way up, a dome that seemed to have some shallow hand and footholds cut into it.
It would have been far safer to have descended the road than it was to clamber up the dome, although the
view from the top made the effort worthwhile.
Below: Back in Lukachukai, we made a few more friends at the Totsoh Trading Post. Hahn sits on the
right, Pierre, the best climber of the day on the left, before heading south for the final 33 miles. Dominic
cooled off by the old ice machine - I'm not sure what effect wearing black had on such a warm day, but he
seemed to weather our ride well.
Hahn flatted for maybe the fourth time - twice in Lukachukai! - and is missing from this group shot. More
often than not I was behind the other riders, but for now we rode a leisurely pace to allow Hahn to catch up
with us. At about 7,000 feet, the air was reasonably cool, and there were still wildflowers along the side of
the road.
We headed west at the road junction below Roof Butte. The route took us under some cooling clouds, and
even a few drops of rain, as we spent a few minutes visiting the northern rim of Canyon de Chelly National
Monument. Then we were off, for a final five-mile downhill run back to the Thunderbird Lodge, showers,
more Navajo tacos and mutton stew, and sleep.
__________________
This post is a natural product. Slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and are in no way to be considered flaws or defects.
This post is a natural product. Slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and are in no way to be considered flaws or defects.
Last edited by icyclist; 02-26-10 at 12:34 AM.
07-28-09, 07:39 PM
#3
I'm that guy
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Wow, nice ride report! I'm going to have to remember that route. I don't have much experience with the four corners area, but from the pictures I really ought to.
So you liked the lightweight jersey? I just got a white one in the mail over the weekend, my splurge for the summer. I haven't worn it on a ride yet, but it's really nice. How did it do in the heat?
So you liked the lightweight jersey? I just got a white one in the mail over the weekend, my splurge for the summer. I haven't worn it on a ride yet, but it's really nice. How did it do in the heat?
07-28-09, 07:56 PM
#6
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Great story and great pictures. I'm like you, a pickup of guy, but I love all my Rapha gear. Great fitting with great performance.
07-28-09, 08:06 PM
#7
vball for fun / competi
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Magnificent. If I ever get up to being able to bike that much, this would be the ideal dream ride 
great pics and story lines. 10/10
great pics and story lines. 10/10
07-28-09, 08:14 PM
#8
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The pics are great.
I would love to ride that.
BTW - the only Rapha kind of rider, is one who appreciates clothes that are just real comfy.
They just fit and are comfy for all day.
No doubt Botto will chime in with his patented sheer idiocy any moment now.
I would love to ride that.
BTW - the only Rapha kind of rider, is one who appreciates clothes that are just real comfy.
They just fit and are comfy for all day.
No doubt Botto will chime in with his patented sheer idiocy any moment now.
07-28-09, 11:12 PM
#12
Spin Meister
Thread Starter
>So you liked the lightweight jersey? I just got a white one in the mail over the weekend, my splurge for the summer. I haven't worn it on a ride yet, but it's really nice. How did it do in the heat?<
I wore a white "Club" jersey (according to Rapha, "The perfect jersey for long summer rides"). In the hot and sometimes humid conditions, I experienced no discomfort - it worked as advertised. I was worried about the short, retro zipper, that it wouldn't let me ventilate enough; on the ride, this was not an issue.
I wore a white "Club" jersey (according to Rapha, "The perfect jersey for long summer rides"). In the hot and sometimes humid conditions, I experienced no discomfort - it worked as advertised. I was worried about the short, retro zipper, that it wouldn't let me ventilate enough; on the ride, this was not an issue.
__________________
This post is a natural product. Slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and are in no way to be considered flaws or defects.
This post is a natural product. Slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and are in no way to be considered flaws or defects.
07-28-09, 11:58 PM
#13
I scream for ice cream.
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... the lightweight jersey is more akin to wearing gauze than clothing. i love mine just for that reason.
07-29-09, 12:27 AM
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Excellent writing without sounding like you tried too hard. Great photography. Congrats on winning the contest. Rapha rocks.
07-29-09, 07:42 PM
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Lightweight jersey question..
Can you get sunburned through that jersey.. Down here in Ga., where it's always humid and hot I'd love to have one.. To be honest though, I've never had an issue with my club jerseys I have, but for those 100 degree days, I think the lightweight would be a plus, but am scared of getting sunburned..
07-30-09, 01:08 AM
#16
Spin Meister
Thread Starter
> I think the lightweight would be a plus, but am scared of getting sunburned..<
On the website, the maker suggests wearing sunblock under the Lightweight jersey: "
Always apply sun cream under your jersey to protect your skin."
On the website, the maker suggests wearing sunblock under the Lightweight jersey: "
Always apply sun cream under your jersey to protect your skin."
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This post is a natural product. Slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and are in no way to be considered flaws or defects.
This post is a natural product. Slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and are in no way to be considered flaws or defects.
07-30-09, 05:17 AM
#17
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what beautiful scenery!! Excellent pictures and nice story. I guess you could kept the jersey?
07-30-09, 02:52 PM
#19
Spin Meister
Thread Starter
>what beautiful scenery!! Excellent pictures and nice story. I guess you could kept the jersey?<
Yeah. As I live in Los Angeles, the trip set me back some bucks, well more than the cost of the jersey, which was an unnecessary gift (but don't tell Rapha); I had way more fun than is probably legal in Arizona and at least a dozen other states.
Yeah. As I live in Los Angeles, the trip set me back some bucks, well more than the cost of the jersey, which was an unnecessary gift (but don't tell Rapha); I had way more fun than is probably legal in Arizona and at least a dozen other states.
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This post is a natural product. Slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and are in no way to be considered flaws or defects.
This post is a natural product. Slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and are in no way to be considered flaws or defects.
