Best light weight step through
#2
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Check out Biria. They're among the few making true easy boarding, low entry step-through frames. Listed weight varies from around 33 lbs on up, with the e-bikes weighing closer to 40 lbs or more.
Most other bikes advertised as "step-through" are actually mixte and compact frames with sloping top tubes. I've also seen a few folding bikes with step-through frames, notably by Tern a few years ago.
Keep in mind that a step-through or any upright bike will be less efficient for climbing. Sitting upright is comfortable for reasonably short distance/duration rides, but makes less efficient use of the adductor muscles. An ideal upright/step-through bike would have motor pedal assist for climbs.
I'm not sure disc brakes would offer any real advantage for the relatively leisurely pace of upright bikes used on pavement and groomed fine gravel/chat trails common to most cycling infrastructure, multi-use paths, etc. Good quality, properly adjusted rim brakes work very well.
FWIW, I went through this back around 2015 when I first got back into cycling after a long hiatus and recovery from a 2001 accident that fractured my neck and back. I needed a cane to walk any distance until 2014. When I resumed cycling I started with a 30+ lb Globe Carmel upright comfort hybrid, and still occasionally used it for errands until around 2019, but haven't ridden it since. Over time with plenty of physical therapy I was able to switch to a more efficient hybrid and, by 2018, mostly drop bar road bikes. But it's a constant struggle and if I take much time off from cycling it takes awhile to regain the strength and flexibility to comfortably ride a drop bar road bike. I expect I'll eventually switch to a hybrid e-assist bike.
Most other bikes advertised as "step-through" are actually mixte and compact frames with sloping top tubes. I've also seen a few folding bikes with step-through frames, notably by Tern a few years ago.
Keep in mind that a step-through or any upright bike will be less efficient for climbing. Sitting upright is comfortable for reasonably short distance/duration rides, but makes less efficient use of the adductor muscles. An ideal upright/step-through bike would have motor pedal assist for climbs.
I'm not sure disc brakes would offer any real advantage for the relatively leisurely pace of upright bikes used on pavement and groomed fine gravel/chat trails common to most cycling infrastructure, multi-use paths, etc. Good quality, properly adjusted rim brakes work very well.
FWIW, I went through this back around 2015 when I first got back into cycling after a long hiatus and recovery from a 2001 accident that fractured my neck and back. I needed a cane to walk any distance until 2014. When I resumed cycling I started with a 30+ lb Globe Carmel upright comfort hybrid, and still occasionally used it for errands until around 2019, but haven't ridden it since. Over time with plenty of physical therapy I was able to switch to a more efficient hybrid and, by 2018, mostly drop bar road bikes. But it's a constant struggle and if I take much time off from cycling it takes awhile to regain the strength and flexibility to comfortably ride a drop bar road bike. I expect I'll eventually switch to a hybrid e-assist bike.
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#3
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Check out Biria. They're among the few making true easy boarding, low entry step-through frames. Listed weight varies from around 33 lbs on up, with the e-bikes weighing closer to 40 lbs or more.
Most other bikes advertised as "step-through" are actually mixte and compact frames with sloping top tubes. I've also seen a few folding bikes with step-through frames, notably by Tern a few years ago.
Keep in mind that a step-through or any upright bike will be less efficient for climbing. Sitting upright is comfortable for reasonably short distance/duration rides, but makes less efficient use of the adductor muscles. An ideal upright/step-through bike would have motor pedal assist for climbs.
I'm not sure disc brakes would offer any real advantage for the relatively leisurely pace of upright bikes used on pavement and groomed fine gravel/chat trails common to most cycling infrastructure, multi-use paths, etc. Good quality, properly adjusted rim brakes work very well.
Most other bikes advertised as "step-through" are actually mixte and compact frames with sloping top tubes. I've also seen a few folding bikes with step-through frames, notably by Tern a few years ago.
Keep in mind that a step-through or any upright bike will be less efficient for climbing. Sitting upright is comfortable for reasonably short distance/duration rides, but makes less efficient use of the adductor muscles. An ideal upright/step-through bike would have motor pedal assist for climbs.
I'm not sure disc brakes would offer any real advantage for the relatively leisurely pace of upright bikes used on pavement and groomed fine gravel/chat trails common to most cycling infrastructure, multi-use paths, etc. Good quality, properly adjusted rim brakes work very well.
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#4
thanks so much re: biria. 33 pounds sounds so heavy. i currently ride a 1999 terry classic that weighs about 25 pounds (maybe less) but i haul pounds of food in bike bucket panniers and i def. need an easy board type bike now. sometimes i nearly drop my bike trying to dismount with bucket paniers full of apples or potatoes, etc. (i haul food for a charity). i should probably get a bike trailer....thank you for any more lightweight sugggestions. ...it's also hilly where i live.
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Try Electra bicycles, they have a few 'Townie' models with step-thru frames and deuralliers that'll help on hills and with heavy loads. Soem have disc brakes, others more traditional rim brakes, and maybe a single-speed model (or two). The electric models are over $1000, but the pedal-drive-only are below that (about $750).
Also look on your local Craigslist for a used one (step-thru frames are not popular in my area so they get discounted). If you're handy with tools and don't mind a little wrenching there are plenty of old Schwinn bicycles with step-through frames you can get cheap on Craigslist, too.
Also look on your local Craigslist for a used one (step-thru frames are not popular in my area so they get discounted). If you're handy with tools and don't mind a little wrenching there are plenty of old Schwinn bicycles with step-through frames you can get cheap on Craigslist, too.
#7
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Light weight wouldn't be my priority for a bike used to haul groceries. A hybrid type bike with longer wheelbase will be better balanced for hauling groceries, etc., regardless of weight. One reason I've kept my Globe Carmel was because of the long wheelbase and low center of gravity, making it more stable when loaded. It feels lighter than it really is when loaded with up to 50 lbs of stuff.
Occasionally I'll use my lighter weight, sportier Univega hybrid for hauling groceries, cat supplies, etc., but it's always more demanding of attention, especially on gravel.
I've never tried to put a rack to haul even light loads on my road bikes. I know the balance would be awful. Occasionally I'll wear a backpack but that's about all.
If I planned to use one bike for everything, including errands, I'd get a drop bar touring bike. The longer wheelbase would help, especially the longer chainstays for the rear wheel to allow more heel clearance with panniers. Getting weight lower in panniers, rather than stacking stuff atop a rack, helps with balance, especially on lighter weight bikes.
Occasionally I'll use my lighter weight, sportier Univega hybrid for hauling groceries, cat supplies, etc., but it's always more demanding of attention, especially on gravel.
I've never tried to put a rack to haul even light loads on my road bikes. I know the balance would be awful. Occasionally I'll wear a backpack but that's about all.
If I planned to use one bike for everything, including errands, I'd get a drop bar touring bike. The longer wheelbase would help, especially the longer chainstays for the rear wheel to allow more heel clearance with panniers. Getting weight lower in panniers, rather than stacking stuff atop a rack, helps with balance, especially on lighter weight bikes.
#8
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We would all like a lightweight bike for cheap. Good luck with that. Your lucky to get disc brakes. The Specialized Roll comes in at about 30 lbs, That's about as good as it gets for this type bike.
I rode a friends Specialized Roll step through. Loved that bike, Very comfortable and much more stable then my Giant Sedona, Which I'm happy with too. I was surprised how easy this bike is to pedal with the wide tires. My next bike, If I can get one will be the Specialized Roll 3.0. The Roll 2.0 is what my friend has and is fine for many folks, But the Roll 3.0 has lower gearing, So climbing hills and carrying loads are easier. Both bikes have Fender mounts, Front and rear Rack mounts, and Disc brakes.
I rode a friends Specialized Roll step through. Loved that bike, Very comfortable and much more stable then my Giant Sedona, Which I'm happy with too. I was surprised how easy this bike is to pedal with the wide tires. My next bike, If I can get one will be the Specialized Roll 3.0. The Roll 2.0 is what my friend has and is fine for many folks, But the Roll 3.0 has lower gearing, So climbing hills and carrying loads are easier. Both bikes have Fender mounts, Front and rear Rack mounts, and Disc brakes.
Last edited by xroadcharlie; 03-13-22 at 10:18 AM.
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best light weight step through
It seems you want what I want, and I'm not sure they're made. I saw a thread with a vintage Falcon Special recently, which looked exactly right, but too small for me. Otherwise, it looked like a road-racing bike, same proportions, just with a step-through frame. My Jamis step-through is 39 lbs - not exactly light weight. My brother's Clem Smith Jr. step-through is only 32 lbs, but it's a foot longer than a normal bike. I think a drop-bar, lightweight step-through is a business opportunity.
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One reason step-through, mixte and comfort hybrid bikes tend to weigh at least 30 lbs is because the true low entry step-through design puts a lot of stress on the frame. So the frame needs to be beefy to support it.
In 2015 I bought an early-mid 2000s Globe Carmel I'd assumed would be lightweight because it had an aluminum frame. But it weighed at least 30 lbs in stock configuration, no rear rack, etc. I was curious about the history of Globe (later subsumed by parent corporation Specialized). The Carmel and one or two other Globe models appeared to be influenced by Yuba cargo bikes. And Globe had been planning to launch an early serious of ebikes. They were a little too far ahead of the game and the Globe commuter and cargo ebikes never happened. The weight of motors and batteries for that era of ebikes would be more practical with beefier, stiffer frames.
One reason I've kept that Globe Carmel, even though I haven't ridden it for a couple of years, is in case I decide to fit it with a motor. But so far I haven't seen a cost effective kit, and the combination of the pandemic on the economy and shipping crisis made it infeasible to seriously consider a retrofit now. Maybe in a few years.
In 2015 I bought an early-mid 2000s Globe Carmel I'd assumed would be lightweight because it had an aluminum frame. But it weighed at least 30 lbs in stock configuration, no rear rack, etc. I was curious about the history of Globe (later subsumed by parent corporation Specialized). The Carmel and one or two other Globe models appeared to be influenced by Yuba cargo bikes. And Globe had been planning to launch an early serious of ebikes. They were a little too far ahead of the game and the Globe commuter and cargo ebikes never happened. The weight of motors and batteries for that era of ebikes would be more practical with beefier, stiffer frames.
One reason I've kept that Globe Carmel, even though I haven't ridden it for a couple of years, is in case I decide to fit it with a motor. But so far I haven't seen a cost effective kit, and the combination of the pandemic on the economy and shipping crisis made it infeasible to seriously consider a retrofit now. Maybe in a few years.
#12
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Amy,
I've been watching these answers because I knew your ask was a tough one. Even putting budget aside, no quick easy solutions.
I assembled a 26 lb step through for the better half, starting with an old big box store aluminum hybrid bike. Stripped it of the cheap heavy everything and went with reasonably light replacements. Only disc on the front, it's a mullet. I didn't keep close track but probably put $300 of new parts plus wheelset parts I had on hand, say another $200ish. Spray paint and decals too. Trying to get near your specs is not a trivial project.
I've been watching these answers because I knew your ask was a tough one. Even putting budget aside, no quick easy solutions.
I assembled a 26 lb step through for the better half, starting with an old big box store aluminum hybrid bike. Stripped it of the cheap heavy everything and went with reasonably light replacements. Only disc on the front, it's a mullet. I didn't keep close track but probably put $300 of new parts plus wheelset parts I had on hand, say another $200ish. Spray paint and decals too. Trying to get near your specs is not a trivial project.
Last edited by BTinNYC; 03-14-22 at 07:06 AM.
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#13
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Step through bikes are going to be heavy just because of the structural design challenges posed by not having that top tube. So in a budget bike 25 - 30 some odd pounds should probably be expected. I don't even think I've seen a high dollar step thru lighter than your current 25 pound bike.
Since you aren't riding those hills to see how quick you can get up them, then probably concentrate more on a bike that has a wide range of gear ratios. Especially low ratios to let you easily pedal up those hills without grunting too much. Weight is less important if you aren't trying for a KOM.
A bike that has one of those kickstands similar to some motor cycles that has a leg coming down on either side might make your bike more stable when loading and unloading. Don't remember what they are called but I have seen them on cargo bikes.
Since you aren't riding those hills to see how quick you can get up them, then probably concentrate more on a bike that has a wide range of gear ratios. Especially low ratios to let you easily pedal up those hills without grunting too much. Weight is less important if you aren't trying for a KOM.
A bike that has one of those kickstands similar to some motor cycles that has a leg coming down on either side might make your bike more stable when loading and unloading. Don't remember what they are called but I have seen them on cargo bikes.
Last edited by Iride01; 03-14-22 at 11:10 AM.
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You know for years I got by with budget bikes for errands like grocery shopping and such. Always compromises. I finally gave in a bought a brand new Azor stepthrough. Now it's highly optioned and twice the price you mentioned but it is one quality piece of kit that will last forever. The racks have a really high carrying weight limit and the front rack is mounted to the frame, not the front wheel. So it never affects handling. I got it with an 8 speed IGH and have yet to run into a hill it can't conquer. I opted for the heavy duty roller brakes and can't complain about them either. For me a dutch style bike is perfect. Maybe look on the used market for one? I'm a guy and used to struggle mounting my other top heavy utility bikes when the racks were loaded and such. Way too easy for stuff to fall out as I leaned it over to through my leg over it to get on. Now it can be loaded with a ton of stuff, I step on, and take off! Should have did this years ago.
Fenders, lights, coat guard, built in wheel lock, two-legged kickstand, etc. This is a true utility bike!
Fenders, lights, coat guard, built in wheel lock, two-legged kickstand, etc. This is a true utility bike!
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#15
A step through bike is going to weigh more than a standard bike so be sure that is what you need. More than 95% of the bikes sold are not the step through type in the USA. People have been using regular caliper brakes for one hundred years and the disc brakes are needed for heavy mountain bikes and tandem bikes but are more of a marketing gimmick for road bikes. Far more brake failures and crashes with people riding bikes with hydraulic brakes where a failure can take out both the front and the rear brakes which cannot happen with cable type brakes.
Most important with hills is to have a granny low gear that is low enough that you can go up anything. A bike takes 20% of the effort of walking as your weight is supported by the bike. Unless you are in too high a gear. People do need to learn to use their gears, not much different than when driving a car in the mountains with a manual transmission where the driver needs to sense that the engine is struggling and shift into a lower gear. If a bike does not have a low enough gear it is a $50 cost to have larger rear cog installed by a bike shop so you do have this "granny" gear.
You save 50% to 80% with a used bike bought from its owner on Craigslist. If it turns out you do not like it you will still be able to get all your money back when you sell it yourself.
Most important with hills is to have a granny low gear that is low enough that you can go up anything. A bike takes 20% of the effort of walking as your weight is supported by the bike. Unless you are in too high a gear. People do need to learn to use their gears, not much different than when driving a car in the mountains with a manual transmission where the driver needs to sense that the engine is struggling and shift into a lower gear. If a bike does not have a low enough gear it is a $50 cost to have larger rear cog installed by a bike shop so you do have this "granny" gear.
You save 50% to 80% with a used bike bought from its owner on Craigslist. If it turns out you do not like it you will still be able to get all your money back when you sell it yourself.
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I have looked for a lightweight step through bike for my wife for a while. An aluminum mixte would be nice. I never found one. Even the step through city bikes were over 30lb.
But I did find a steel one that is around 25lbs. I ended up ordering just the frame and fork and will use the components off her old Univega. I am waiting for the frame to come back in stock so I can’t comment on the quality.
The bike is made by Handsome and the model is the She Devil. They offer it down to 46cm. The 1x8 is 25lbs and it sells for $900. The only issue is figuring out what gearing you need. You do need to know what the highest gearing you use now and then match a chainring and cassette to give you the lowest for hills.
I wish I had more hands on info, but it is the direction I ended up going.
John
But I did find a steel one that is around 25lbs. I ended up ordering just the frame and fork and will use the components off her old Univega. I am waiting for the frame to come back in stock so I can’t comment on the quality.
The bike is made by Handsome and the model is the She Devil. They offer it down to 46cm. The 1x8 is 25lbs and it sells for $900. The only issue is figuring out what gearing you need. You do need to know what the highest gearing you use now and then match a chainring and cassette to give you the lowest for hills.
I wish I had more hands on info, but it is the direction I ended up going.
John
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The bike is made by Handsome and the model is the She Devil. They offer it down to 46cm. The 1x8 is 25lbs and it sells for $900. The only issue is figuring out what gearing you need. You do need to know what the highest gearing you use now and then match a chainring and cassette to give you the lowest for hills.
I wish I had more hands on info, but it is the direction I ended up going.
John
I wish I had more hands on info, but it is the direction I ended up going.
John
#18
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Another thread had me looking at a Trek FX2 Stagger, a sort-of step-through hybrid that comes in at 25 lbs. The FX3 Stagger is a 1x version.
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With all my looking, I had never seem the Stagger model. With the right wheels and components that could easily come in under 25lbs.
John
Edit added: I’m still happy with the frame I ordered, especially since it is pretty cool was on sale for $435.
John
Edit added: I’m still happy with the frame I ordered, especially since it is pretty cool was on sale for $435.
Last edited by 70sSanO; 03-16-22 at 08:41 PM.
#20
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My wife rides the Specialized Roll, not lightweight compared to my road bikes but not bad either. Rolls really nice and she absolutely loves it. I don't think she will ever part with it. Before this bike she wouldn't ride much with me and our son. Her other more costly bikes she just didn't care for, but with this 10 mile picnic rides are regular in the summer now. Been a great investment on so many levels for our family!
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#21
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My wife rides the Specialized Roll, not lightweight compared to my road bikes but not bad either. Rolls really nice and she absolutely loves it. I don't think she will ever part with it. Before this bike she wouldn't ride much with me and our son. Her other more costly bikes she just didn't care for, but with this 10 mile picnic rides are regular in the summer now. Been a great investment on so many levels for our family!
Don't get hung up on weight unless you have to carry it up 3 flights of stairs to your apartment. Even if you cut the weight by 5 lbs, It would only take about 2.5% more power to climb with, and 90% of that is returned on the downside on many hills. Cruising on flat ground there is virtually no difference.
Last edited by xroadcharlie; 03-17-22 at 06:30 PM.
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#23
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How light weight do you need? I would suggest a classic steel-framed mixte, such as a Peugeot UO-18 or Motobecane equivalent, with aluminum rims and cranks.
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#24
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Weight can be an odd dilemma. Some people can tell the difference and some can’t.
Up to a point, at least for me, the biggest driver are the wheels. I’m not even talking about ultra lightweight, but taking a couple pounds off the wheels seems to make night and day difference.
That said, I’ve been pretty happy with low 20’s for my road bikes, mid 20’s for urban flat bar, and 3/4 20’s for my hardtails.
Obviously less weight is better, and everyone is different, but that has worked for me.
John
Up to a point, at least for me, the biggest driver are the wheels. I’m not even talking about ultra lightweight, but taking a couple pounds off the wheels seems to make night and day difference.
That said, I’ve been pretty happy with low 20’s for my road bikes, mid 20’s for urban flat bar, and 3/4 20’s for my hardtails.
Obviously less weight is better, and everyone is different, but that has worked for me.
John
#25
I might recommend a folding bike. They are short enough that they are all basically “step through” bikes, they are compact, light (usually), and with small wheels and modern drivetrains they can climb, though they may be slow going down hill if you don’t have a big ring on the front. You can get something like a Tern D8 with disc brakes, which has an 8 speed driveline and weighs 30 pounds. It’s well under $1000, and is easily upgradeable. Upgrading to 10 or 11 speeds and a lighter crankset is a bolt-on affair, you can easily shave a few pounds off the bike.
I used a folding bike for much of my riding, I have a Birdy, which I have had a lot of fun modifying. Its fun to ride, reasonably fast, is very light, and I can put in the trunk of my car, which is easier than putting in on a roof rack or hitch rock
I used a folding bike for much of my riding, I have a Birdy, which I have had a lot of fun modifying. Its fun to ride, reasonably fast, is very light, and I can put in the trunk of my car, which is easier than putting in on a roof rack or hitch rock