AndreyT

On my bicycle I have a compact in front and 11-speed 11-28 in the rear. The RD is SRAM Force 22 WiFLi.

The chain was sized using the classic big-big method on 28. Since a non-joinable pair of rivets aligned to each other, I had to add one link and then add two links on top of that. I ended up removing 2 links from a standard SRAM 114 link chain. The result worked fine with 11-28.

Now I need to temporarily install a 11-32 cassette. I assumed that I'll probably have to install a longer chain as well (i.e. use all 114 links). But it turns out that the chain I used with 11-28 is also capable of switching to 32. This is what 112 links look like in big-big configuration with 11-32:



I had to adjust the B-screw a bit, and it shifts fine.

Do you think it looks long enough? Or should I opt for all 114 links instead?

zandoval 

I would just get another chain sized for the temporary cogs. Then every time I changed out the cogs I would have a proper sized chain for it.

AndreyT

That was my plan all along. But there are two "buts":

1. It appears to me that the current chain is already properly sized. Maybe just a little tight-ish... It is not a big surprise, considering that I had to add an extra link when sizing for 28T cassette.

2. When the bike was brand new, it came with 10-speed SRAM Apex group: 50/34 in the front and something-32 in the rear. And I seem to recall that the original chain length was also two-links shorter than a full 114-link SRAM chain. I.e. back then, with the original 32T cassette, when I replaced the chain by matching the new one to the old one, I also had to take 2 links off the new chain.

SpedFast

I did the same thing on my Fuji, putting a 11/32 in place of a 11/28--the same length chain is used. If you add a couple of links it will be really sloppy on the other extreme and possibly snag itself repeatedly if not keep flipping off. Don't mess with it anymore You got it right.

maddog34

you can always avoid going big/big, and you'll be fine.... unless you go mud riding during the winter in grassy areas of farms or parks with glory in your sights... then it's a bit too tight. (CycloCross Season is here!)

how does it look in Small/Small? could you post a pic of that combo?

AndreyT

The rear end in small-small

FBinNY 

I operate by a simple rule.

I run the longest chain that works well. Since there's minimal difference in smallest sprocket sizes the longest chain will always work, and allows more freedom at the other end.

Kontact

Run the chain as is. Next time, use small small.

Since the chain only touches half a cassette cog, the difference between 28 and 32 is actually just 2, which is why the old chain is close enough.

Iride01 

If your RD has a little more forward movement to it then I'd say you are good. Likewise on the small/smalls, it should not go slack or be so slack that it doesn't shift well or becomes prone to chain drops.

Chain length isn't any one exact number number of links. It's just a range of link count that will work well through all the gear combinations till you get to the point were it doesn't work well.

grumpus

Plenty good enough; it's assumed you'll only accidentally use big/big anyway, and clearly it's possible to do it without breaking anything.

Bill Kapaun

A quick method to see if you have enough slack IN SITU.
BIG:BIG

maddog34

ok... now, just for kicks and giggles.. add an inner link and another Quick link... then check small/small again.

less chain tension equals a quieter, less wear-prone, easier-to-pedal drivetrain.