Need help finding new jockey wheels for derailleur
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bill nyecycles
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Need help finding new jockey wheels for derailleur
Shimano 600 6207 6spd friction rear derailleur.
having a hard time finding parts that I’m comfortable taking a chance of getting.
10 teeth per wheel I believe.
Who can point me towards reliable correct parts?
having a hard time finding parts that I’m comfortable taking a chance of getting.
10 teeth per wheel I believe.
Who can point me towards reliable correct parts?
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Sci guy,
You are looking for 10 tooth pulleys with a 6mm inner spacing for the fixing bolt. They range in cost from $2 to $50. If you can find old school sealed pulleys they are the ones at $50. You can use the ones I use from Chaser tech that are about $15 per set. Sealed and hard anodized in colors. If you want some used ones, I have them here that are BullsEye models. I can get new bearings for them locally and they would be reasonable in the price of about $35 for a reconditioned set. HTH, MH
You are looking for 10 tooth pulleys with a 6mm inner spacing for the fixing bolt. They range in cost from $2 to $50. If you can find old school sealed pulleys they are the ones at $50. You can use the ones I use from Chaser tech that are about $15 per set. Sealed and hard anodized in colors. If you want some used ones, I have them here that are BullsEye models. I can get new bearings for them locally and they would be reasonable in the price of about $35 for a reconditioned set. HTH, MH
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Geeezzzz... Chaser Tech is a good supplier and 2 to 50 USD is a good price. But how did we let bicycle parts get so expensive. I am gonna have to replace the pulleys on an old Campy Touring derailuer and I am gritting my teeth on what I am going to have to pay. Thinking about stamping a pair out of brass.
I just can't remember when I became such a Cheap Base Turd...
I just can't remember when I became such a Cheap Base Turd...
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zandoval,
The BullsEye vintage sets are at $50 last time I looked. I have been using the CT for my Campy rebuilds as they offer 5mm bolt adaptors for the Campy repairs. The BullsEyes were a 6mm bearing that needed centering for Campy derailleurs. Smiles, MH
The BullsEye vintage sets are at $50 last time I looked. I have been using the CT for my Campy rebuilds as they offer 5mm bolt adaptors for the Campy repairs. The BullsEyes were a 6mm bearing that needed centering for Campy derailleurs. Smiles, MH
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Sci guy,
You are looking for 10 tooth pulleys with a 6mm inner spacing for the fixing bolt. They range in cost from $2 to $50. If you can find old school sealed pulleys they are the ones at $50. You can use the ones I use from Chaser tech that are about $15 per set. Sealed and hard anodized in colors. If you want some used ones, I have them here that are BullsEye models. I can get new bearings for them locally and they would be reasonable in the price of about $35 for a reconditioned set. HTH, MH
You are looking for 10 tooth pulleys with a 6mm inner spacing for the fixing bolt. They range in cost from $2 to $50. If you can find old school sealed pulleys they are the ones at $50. You can use the ones I use from Chaser tech that are about $15 per set. Sealed and hard anodized in colors. If you want some used ones, I have them here that are BullsEye models. I can get new bearings for them locally and they would be reasonable in the price of about $35 for a reconditioned set. HTH, MH
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Those Shimano ones are all you need, anything more expensive is just a waste of $.
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Only ones I could find was these Shimano Derailleur Pulley Set, 1 Pair, fits 6, 7, 8 sp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00367370Y...ing=UTF8&psc=1
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A couple of years ago I switched most of my older rear derailleurs to Tacx brand sealed bearing delrin pulleys, which cost only about $10-$15 at the time. They run more smoothly even than Shimano Centeron. I'm not sure whether those are still available but I see several on Amazon that appear very similar.
And I have an older set of red anodized Bullseye pulleys, although I replaced those with Tacx because the aluminum Bullseye pulleys were a bit noisy.
The Tacx delrin pulley teeth were a bit thinner than Shimano and Suntour but they shift and run just as well or better. Far better than the original Suntour sintered bearings which were really draggy. I tried running the old sintered bearing pulleys dry as recommended, with oils, grease, wax, etc., but they were still draggy. Switching to inexpensive sealed bearing pulleys saved me several watts -- I'd guesstimate 5-10 watts. It really was noticeable, both with the bike on the workstand and while riding.
And I have an older set of red anodized Bullseye pulleys, although I replaced those with Tacx because the aluminum Bullseye pulleys were a bit noisy.
The Tacx delrin pulley teeth were a bit thinner than Shimano and Suntour but they shift and run just as well or better. Far better than the original Suntour sintered bearings which were really draggy. I tried running the old sintered bearing pulleys dry as recommended, with oils, grease, wax, etc., but they were still draggy. Switching to inexpensive sealed bearing pulleys saved me several watts -- I'd guesstimate 5-10 watts. It really was noticeable, both with the bike on the workstand and while riding.
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It doesn’t impact the OP, but those Shimano jockey wheels will not work on 90’s 8 speed rear derailleurs. The early Shimano 8 speed RD’s used “Narrow” 10t jockey wheels.
John
John
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bill nyecycles
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Just came across these as well: https://velo-orange.com/collections/...heels-10-tooth
Think those would work?
Think those would work?
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Just came across these as well: https://velo-orange.com/collections/...heels-10-tooth
Think those would work?
Think those would work?
During the rebuilding of the RD. The original pulleys had the most play I've ever seen.
From the top.
All finished up and working beautifully.
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If you search on alibaba, you can often find them cheap.
With the ones shown below you can buy ten for $13.50 plus shipping, that's $1.35 each. With shipping, it might be under $2.50 each, check for yourself. These are 11T. I have a modern reproduction of a derailleur similar to yours, with 10T jockey wheels. With my derailleur, I believe I can run 11T, but no larger. Have a good look at your derailleur, and see if 11T will work.
There are also 10T jockey wheels on alibaba, but they are less common. Search for yourself.
You can also buy new derailleurs.
Where I am I can buy derailleurs real cheap from the local shops. But I have thought about, after I return to Australia, maybe buy 50 jockey wheels. That would be more than you are likely to use in your lifetime. You should be able to get 50 for less than $50. You could then give some away to your cycling friends, or people you meet with very worn jockey wheels, as they cost next to nothing.
Chinese can scam you, but for a purchase of $25, I would not be overly concerned.
With the ones shown below you can buy ten for $13.50 plus shipping, that's $1.35 each. With shipping, it might be under $2.50 each, check for yourself. These are 11T. I have a modern reproduction of a derailleur similar to yours, with 10T jockey wheels. With my derailleur, I believe I can run 11T, but no larger. Have a good look at your derailleur, and see if 11T will work.
There are also 10T jockey wheels on alibaba, but they are less common. Search for yourself.
You can also buy new derailleurs.
Where I am I can buy derailleurs real cheap from the local shops. But I have thought about, after I return to Australia, maybe buy 50 jockey wheels. That would be more than you are likely to use in your lifetime. You should be able to get 50 for less than $50. You could then give some away to your cycling friends, or people you meet with very worn jockey wheels, as they cost next to nothing.
Chinese can scam you, but for a purchase of $25, I would not be overly concerned.
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One thing to think about...
If you're friction shifting, non-floating pulleys, like the anodized aluminum ones, will give better, more positive shifting than the floating SIS Shimano ones. When I was a shop monkey, if I had a customer with a friction-shift bike with a newer Shimano rear derailleur who was having shifting problems, like the bike jumping up a gear under load, I'd switch the upper and lower pulleys, and that almost always fixed the problem. (The lower pulley doesn't float.) A floating upper pulley on a friction shifting drivetrain will not make any noise when it's slightly misaligned, but as soon as you put the beans to it, the chain will go where it wants to be, and you can get ghost shifts.
--Shannon
If you're friction shifting, non-floating pulleys, like the anodized aluminum ones, will give better, more positive shifting than the floating SIS Shimano ones. When I was a shop monkey, if I had a customer with a friction-shift bike with a newer Shimano rear derailleur who was having shifting problems, like the bike jumping up a gear under load, I'd switch the upper and lower pulleys, and that almost always fixed the problem. (The lower pulley doesn't float.) A floating upper pulley on a friction shifting drivetrain will not make any noise when it's slightly misaligned, but as soon as you put the beans to it, the chain will go where it wants to be, and you can get ghost shifts.
--Shannon
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Back in the pre-Internet days when I still messed around with old Porsches (and VW Bugs were still in production and plentiful in bone yards and the JC Whitney catalog), there was a pretty comprehensive list of parts interchangeability between Bugs and 356s. As a grad student, I drove a ratty '55 Speedster well before they ascended into the stratosphere of collectability. That list was handy.
It seems to me we could use something similar, a sticky thread which contains reasonable quality options for many consumable parts, from pedestrian (Shimano 10T pulley wheels) to blingy but moderately priced (Chaser Tech) to blingy and hoard-worthy (Bullseye). That could extend to non-consumable stuff (e.g. workable and/or period correct lever/caliper combinations - recent thread on CR regarding better levers for Universal calipers).
It seems to me we could use something similar, a sticky thread which contains reasonable quality options for many consumable parts, from pedestrian (Shimano 10T pulley wheels) to blingy but moderately priced (Chaser Tech) to blingy and hoard-worthy (Bullseye). That could extend to non-consumable stuff (e.g. workable and/or period correct lever/caliper combinations - recent thread on CR regarding better levers for Universal calipers).
Last edited by smontanaro; 07-05-21 at 04:42 AM.
#15
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About 8 years ago I bought some aluminum pulleys and bolt-on wheel skewers from an e-bay seller from Canada. I had to drill out one of the bushings to fit my Suntour derailleur's shafts, which wasn't an easy task.
Seller doesn't exist any longer, but I'm sure there are others. When the seller sent me two rear skewers, he very quickly sent me a front. It's a shame he's gone.
Seller doesn't exist any longer, but I'm sure there are others. When the seller sent me two rear skewers, he very quickly sent me a front. It's a shame he's gone.
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Unless they're different than Suntour and Campy, search eBay for "ty05."
https://www.ebay.com/itm/27470754742...IAAOSwnnlbdr9~
https://www.ebay.com/itm/27470754742...IAAOSwnnlbdr9~
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Geeezzzz... Chaser Tech is a good supplier and 2 to 50 USD is a good price. But how did we let bicycle parts get so expensive. I am gonna have to replace the pulleys on an old Campy Touring derailuer and I am gritting my teeth on what I am going to have to pay. Thinking about stamping a pair out of brass.
I just can't remember when I became such a Cheap Base Turd...
I just can't remember when I became such a Cheap Base Turd...
I don't get it. The Chaser tech are $16 per set and work quite nicely. I use them on every Campy rear derailleur that I work on. Sealed bearings, and the right size, with the correct inner bearing spacers, What is not to like. The worst part may be that the spacers are too thick and need a few cuts with a file to get a good fit in the chain cage. Do I need to post a picture to show the way it works. Please don't tell me I need to do it for the current generation who doesn't read well. Smiles, MH
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One thing to think about...
If you're friction shifting, non-floating pulleys, like the anodized aluminum ones, will give better, more positive shifting than the floating SIS Shimano ones. When I was a shop monkey, if I had a customer with a friction-shift bike with a newer Shimano rear derailleur who was having shifting problems, like the bike jumping up a gear under load, I'd switch the upper and lower pulleys, and that almost always fixed the problem. (The lower pulley doesn't float.) A floating upper pulley on a friction shifting drivetrain will not make any noise when it's slightly misaligned, but as soon as you put the beans to it, the chain will go where it wants to be, and you can get ghost shifts.
--Shannon
If you're friction shifting, non-floating pulleys, like the anodized aluminum ones, will give better, more positive shifting than the floating SIS Shimano ones. When I was a shop monkey, if I had a customer with a friction-shift bike with a newer Shimano rear derailleur who was having shifting problems, like the bike jumping up a gear under load, I'd switch the upper and lower pulleys, and that almost always fixed the problem. (The lower pulley doesn't float.) A floating upper pulley on a friction shifting drivetrain will not make any noise when it's slightly misaligned, but as soon as you put the beans to it, the chain will go where it wants to be, and you can get ghost shifts.
--Shannon
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A couple of years ago I switched most of my older rear derailleurs to Tacx brand sealed bearing delrin pulleys, which cost only about $10-$15 at the time. They run more smoothly even than Shimano Centeron. I'm not sure whether those are still available but I see several on Amazon that appear very similar.
And I have an older set of red anodized Bullseye pulleys, although I replaced those with Tacx because the aluminum Bullseye pulleys were a bit noisy.
The Tacx delrin pulley teeth were a bit thinner than Shimano and Suntour but they shift and run just as well or better. Far better than the original Suntour sintered bearings which were really draggy. I tried running the old sintered bearing pulleys dry as recommended, with oils, grease, wax, etc., but they were still draggy. Switching to inexpensive sealed bearing pulleys saved me several watts -- I'd guesstimate 5-10 watts. It really was noticeable, both with the bike on the workstand and while riding.
And I have an older set of red anodized Bullseye pulleys, although I replaced those with Tacx because the aluminum Bullseye pulleys were a bit noisy.
The Tacx delrin pulley teeth were a bit thinner than Shimano and Suntour but they shift and run just as well or better. Far better than the original Suntour sintered bearings which were really draggy. I tried running the old sintered bearing pulleys dry as recommended, with oils, grease, wax, etc., but they were still draggy. Switching to inexpensive sealed bearing pulleys saved me several watts -- I'd guesstimate 5-10 watts. It really was noticeable, both with the bike on the workstand and while riding.
#21
bill nyecycles
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Sci guy,
You are looking for 10 tooth pulleys with a 6mm inner spacing for the fixing bolt. They range in cost from $2 to $50. If you can find old school sealed pulleys they are the ones at $50. You can use the ones I use from Chaser tech that are about $15 per set. Sealed and hard anodized in colors. If you want some used ones, I have them here that are BullsEye models. I can get new bearings for them locally and they would be reasonable in the price of about $35 for a reconditioned set. HTH, MH
You are looking for 10 tooth pulleys with a 6mm inner spacing for the fixing bolt. They range in cost from $2 to $50. If you can find old school sealed pulleys they are the ones at $50. You can use the ones I use from Chaser tech that are about $15 per set. Sealed and hard anodized in colors. If you want some used ones, I have them here that are BullsEye models. I can get new bearings for them locally and they would be reasonable in the price of about $35 for a reconditioned set. HTH, MH
Do they ship from the US or will I be waiting 5 weeks from China?
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I've had this experience as well with floating pulleys that work so nicely with index shifting, but not so hot with friction. Ditto, using my preferred SunRace freewheels for friction shifting. The nicely shaped beveled teeth that make index shifting so crisp seems to thwart friction shifting. The chain jingles around and sounds like it's hunting. When I switched to Suntour Alpha freewheels with plainer teeth, friction shifting worked better.
FWIW- I'm also using Bullseyes on a 7 speed setup fine.
Also FWIW- as you mentioned- Bullseyes can be a bit noisier. But I like the "bling."
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If you specified the 6mm fixing bolt size they would provide the needed spacers for the bearings. The spacers are sometimes a bit thick for the cage you have so cutting a bit of the spacer down from the inner section of the spacer. Otherwise all should go well. Smiles, MH
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Unless they're different than Suntour and Campy, search eBay for "ty05."
https://www.ebay.com/itm/27470754742...IAAOSwnnlbdr9~
https://www.ebay.com/itm/27470754742...IAAOSwnnlbdr9~
BITD I used Bullseye pulleys on Campy derailleurs. They were always a bit loose.
As a quick check, I compared TY05, Bullseye, Campy and SunTour jockey wheels I pulled from my parts bin. An M6 bolt passed through the Bullseye and SunTour parts, but neither the Shimano nor Campy parts. I think that's why Love City Cycles makes these Simplex/SunTour pulleys. It seems they just replace the inner bushings on TY05 pulleys.