Jtnb1972

Hi folks, long time listener, first time caller.

I have a recently acquired, entiruly original-but-rough-shape (likely mid-'70s) Raleigh Grand Prix.
I also have an 80s Specialized carbon EPIC, which 10 or 12 years ago I built out with a Campy Record 8-speed groupset.

My question is, can I move that Campy Record groupset to the Raleigh? I assume the bottom bracket will be a big issue. Also suspect the short reach campy calipers will only work with wheels same diameter as the originals (27 I guess?). So either get long reach and interrupt the groupset or find modern 27" wheels?

Brifters should be ok even if I have to change the bars? Derailleurs?

I have some gorgeous campy wheels on the Specialized but they're 700c.

Anyone been down this road before? Anyone have any counsel?

Can't post photos and links yet, so none avail, but can send to interested parties, if there are any!

Thanks.

WGB 

Bottom bracket will only be an issue if both aren't the same thread. I'd expect your Specialized was built for the American market and hopefully the Raleigh was too.

As for brakes I'd say only a trial run will establish if there's enough leeway to adjust down 4mm.

As for going to 8 speed from 5 speed, it'll either be way to tight or you'll have to cold set the rear. 5 speed rear was either 120 or 126mm and 8 speed is 130mm.
Some people use a hockey stick (I used a 2 x 4) to cold set. If you do decide to go with cold setting, it's a good idea to do it slowly and keep checking your measurements. In the end I had no problems but I have a friend who checked the alignment and he has the proper tools to adjust alignment as alignment can change after cold setting. There are I believe videos available for cold setting and certainly threads on here on how to do it.

non-fixie 

Nice project! Subscribing.

As long as both cranks use square taper spindles, you should be able to cobble something together that works, I'd think.

Campagnolo 8 speed brifters can be made to work well pretty easily with 5 and 6 speed freewheels, using a Shimano SIS-compatible rear derailleur and so-called hubbub cable routing. Google "Shimergo". That would enable you to keep the original wheels.

I would advise to use a new freewheel and compressionless housing for the shifter cables for the best results.

Mrs non-fixie's ~1970 RIH with Campagnolo 8 speed brifters:

WGB 

Ps.
Click on your name.
Click on Profile
You should see "albums" and probably it says "none added" or similar.
You can add photos there.
After you add photos post an update here and ask someone to move the photos.
Ps you can add 5 updates each day for two days and when you have hit ten you can add all the photos you need. You can add 4 more today...

clubman 

A nice 8 speed group could be seen as a total waste on a rough 70's Raleigh GP, especially if you need to rebuild wheels, which you will. Upgrading C&V frames is generally a good thing but there's some limits.

Sentimental value maybe?

nlerner

Yeah, I'm with @clubman; I'm all for resto projects, but a 70s Raleigh GP is not a very good candidate (didn't they come with cottered cranks?). A Super GP of that late 70s/early 80s would be a better choice. Some potential issues with the 70s GP:

--bottom bracket threading: might be 26tpi
--brake reach
--brake attachment (nutted versus recessed)
--rear end spacing (likely 120mm and needs to be 130mm for 8-speed)
--derailleur hanger or lack thereof.
--it will weigh a ton, even with the updated group set.

Classtime 

You didn't mention your plans for the Epic. Going 12 speed?

3alarmer 

.
...you can often make the brakes for a frame of that vintage work with 700c wheels, iff you just stick with the original center pull calipers.
They have enough reach to work with 700c, if you lower the shoes all the way down in the caliper arm slots. 700c wheels are the same diameter as sewups.

But unless that other CF frame is busted, or just not of interest to you any more, I would probably not make this modification.

WGB 

Oops!

Forgot about the derailleur hanger...

Jtnb1972

This is a really good point. The frame has no sentimental value. It's new. The Epic is in good shape and I have all of the original groupset components on the epic (except front derailleur which I had to change out for another Campy Record because the carbon tube was bigger)

Perhaps I should leave the Campy where it is and come up with another plan for the Raleigh.

Also forgot to mention that I upgraded the Epic's Campy 8 speed to 9 by changing out the inner thingamabob. So it's an 18 speed (9 speed) bike)

due ruote 

Maybe a town bike format for the GP? Upright bars, perhaps a basket and fenders. You could do a single speed with current wheels. I actually think those frames ride decently for what they are - a classic Everyman British boom bike, but probably not deserving of the Campy group.

Jtnb1972

Welllll, no. I hadn't gotten that far with the Epic. I also have a nice hand-me-down carbon racing bike that's my roadie. It's more bike than I need, but I have it and I love it.

So maybe the quiver would be helpful:

Carbon roadie
Bike Friday tandem traveler for riding with kid/wife/friend
70's Raleigh Record with flip flop hub as my (NYC) city bike

And then I have the Epic, which I built up a while back as a roadie, but it's a little redundant with the fancy carbon bike
And the newly-acquired Grand Prix, which needs a lot of not very expensive work.

What I think I need is a geared bike that'll hold panniers. None of mine meet that criterion. Thought I might do that with the Grand Prix with the Campy, but two of you have p[ointed out that that is silly, which is likely correct.

What else do I need? Unknown. But I do know that I'm two bikes lighter than I was 5 years ago and I never have enough bikes. Or rather, I never have too many bikes.

Jtnb1972

Done. One photo of one pre-1976 Raleigh Grand Prix in my album.

Now what?

(And thanks!)

Russ Roth

I wouldn't bother, while there are adapters to fit a bolt-on der I find they don't work well with QR systems, you really need a bolt on wheel, this is because the axle on the QR wheel doesn't move over far enough. The brakes look a little short for reaching a 700c wheel either way. The rest can probably be made to work but you're liable to find the ride disappointing.
This looks like a good candidate for a more upright style bar with some thumb shifters and if it was mine, a new set of wheels and tires. I found some NOS nashbar 80s 6sp hubs for 20.00 on ebay, a set of 27" aluminum sun rims, and basic spokes for a decent new 36h wheelset. With the aluminum rims offering slightly better stopping I'd just replace the pads on the brakes and call it done after a good clean up. It's what I did when my daughter wanted a pink girls bike to cruise the bike path and we found an old lugged steel giant. The new wheels made all the difference, and other than the bars and shifters, everything else is original but she can cruise quick.

SJX426 

I agree with @clubman. I have a 74 Mixte GP that I have tried to "improve." The only real improvement is brake pads and AL rims so it will stop. I tried to go on the cheap, but it isn't working out. I think it has more value, little that it has, original with the mods stated.

Jtnb1972

Didn't ultimately make these changes. Helpful to have had the advice.

Jtnb1972

I did get a Raleigh Super Course with modern drops that I will set up with panniers.

Jtnb1972

And full fenders! A

Pcampeau

You’re at 9 posts. Just one more post and let’s see it.