Svr

How would you define "proper" bicycle chain lube? Please provide scientific evidence that these products actually work any better than a home brewed lube.

DMF 

Might be a good lubricant, but it's a lousy sealant. Get any saw chain near dirt and you'll find that out. A bicycle chain runs near (and in) dirt and must be sealed to keep dirt out and lube in.

DMF 

+20 or so.

DMF 

You might want to re-examine your assumptions.

mike-on-da-bike

i use chainsaw oil its good i just sotimes wipe of dirt with rag,the chains needs oils man dry lube just aint a good idea

Svr

This is exactly why a thick oil (properly applied) is best. Dirt simply cannot penetrate the tiny spaces between the rollers and inner/outer plates when the lubricant already occupies this space.

byte_speed

As several others here have mentioned cleanliness is the secret, most any oil will work fine if you keep the chain clean. I got 20,000 miles out of a chain using only WD-40 before nearly every ride, spraying it on and wiping off the dirt and all the oil I could get. Even after 20k miles the chain wasn't completely worn out, I broke a tooth on the cassette and replaced them as a set. I also spent considerable time cleaning the rear wheel.

Berre

That's why I use a mixture of oil and paraffin wax. It both fills empty spaces so grit can not invade the chain and it lubes better than wax only. It's the best of both worlds.

Putoline chain wax is a great product I used to apply, but I can not find it in stores anymore. Castrol offers a similar chain wax that I can't get my hands on neither.

n4zou

Winter grade chain saw oil works fine if you do it properly. Place just one drop on each roller. Spin the crank backwards to work it in. Wipe the chain with an old rag to remove all of it from the external surfaces of the chain. Bend a big fuzzy pipe cleaner in half and run through each link to clean and remove all excess oil where you can't get the rag. That sticky lube is inside the parts where it's needed and will not collect dirt or crud. It's also waterproof sealing all interior surfaces. Even if you don't use chain saw oil you should remove all excess lubricants as described above after applying any lubricant. Excess lubricant on exterior surfaces do nothing but collect crud.

mark9950

I never mess with my chain except for using wd 40 after a ride in the rain to clean off the rust,chains are so cheap that it isnt worth it.I buy those $4-$10 from the local hardware stores or wal-mart.They arent worth it,my chains last me only six months.Never use those rustproof from the bike shop, $20.00 at my local bike shop

Carusoswi

When a chain really needs lube, it starts making noise . . . not necessarily a constant squeak, either . . . noise, as if you have dry bearings in your BB. Lube it then to restore peace and tranquility, more often if that makes you feel better.

I lube mine when I feel like it, clean it when I want it and the rest of the bike to shine.

Religious re-lube in hopes of prolonging the life of the chain or the cassette probably gives a psychological lift, but doesn't significantly prolong the useful life of either chain or cassette.

Replacing a chain before its natural tendency to stretch whittling away at the teeth on your cassette will definitely prolong the life of the cassette. But, lubing a chain won't do much to stop it from stretching . . . only non-use (as in don't ride your bike) will keep the chain from stretching . . . a solution I find intolerable.

Eventually, if you really spend a lot of time in the saddle, your cassette will also need replacement. That will vary depending upon your style of riding and where you ride.

I spend a lot of time cruising in my longest gear, so my smallest cog will go first.

Some riders will distribute their ride over many cogs, so, as a unit, their cassettes will last longer than mine (I generally don't mess around replacing just one cog when it goes - I just get a new cassette).

The good news is that, compared to other consumables in other pursuits, we cyclists get a good deal out of the parts we consume. If you ride a well-maintained bike until you wear out the cassettes, you've either had many years of service, or, like me, you've put on a lot of mileage in a relatively short time.

Either way, you've more than gotten your money's worth.

That said, I lube my chain using cycling specific products, either wax or non-wax depending upon what's at hand and where I am at the time. I wouldn't borrow a wax based product outside my LBS on a freezing cold day to apply some lube to my chain - that would be a waste as the stuff doesn't work well when applied in the cold.

Otherwise, I don't think it makes that much difference.

Unless you are riding literally in sand or dirt, I don't see the point in getting anal about cleanliness, either.

Your mileage may vary, and, while we beat this subject to death, I always enjoy reading these threads and contributing from time to time.

Happy riding.

Caruso

Retro Grouch 

ScrubJ

Ah, the most sensible answer in this whole post, though I will admit air tool oil is pretty nice too

As a mechanic in another field, I often hear owners looking for the "ultimate" oil for their engines. Some will spend a ridiculous amount of money per quart expecting something magic to happen with their engine. NOTHING beats good regular maintenance!

Skip all the thick stuff, (chainsaw oil is made tacky so as not to sling off) oil and wipe down regularly (I do every ride) and have fun.

Buy this guy a gallon of his favorite chain lube.

mcmurryjohn

Huh? Lubricating your chain flushes grit from the rollers, greatly delaying wear.

And how often you maintain and replace your chain...

RealOld

The only folks all of this "chain clean/lube" hype is making happy are the manufacturers of a gigantic market for various types of cleaners/lubes that are more hype than anything of real substance. Plain old kerosene works great as a cleaner and most any form of lubricant will function fine. Any lube will attract grime and dust depending a lot on riding conditions. The main idea is just to clean when necessary and put on a lube of your choice. The thinner (lower viscosity) lubes will do the job of lubricating chain components the best, but will have to be applied after nearly every ride of any distance. Chain maintenance is not rocket science or brain surgery.

Wordbiker

My only real considerations for lubes are as following:

-The more tenacious the lube, the longer it will stay on the chain and the dirtier it will get. "Dry" lubes will have to be applied more often.

-Before choosing a lube of any type, consider the solvent needed to clean it. Whether you are OCD or not about cleaning the chain itself, the rest of the drivetrain will eventually need cleaning with the same solvent, so if something nasty is required, let your conscience and health be your guide. Here at the shop we have a surcharge for cleaning drivetrains requiring the harshest solvents due to the additional labor and cost of materials.

-Certain types of lube build up and can give the opposite effect desired, slowing or stopping pulleys, caking cogs and packing up pivots and knuckles with grit. Plan on tearing down and rebuilding/repacking drivetrain components more often with lubes that are sticky.

-The same considerations given to maintaining your car (if you have one) should be given to your drivetrain. If you live in a rural area with dusty dirt roads like I do (or ride in similar conditions), your air filter and oil must be changed more often than in urban areas. If your climatic conditions call for a certain weight of lube, don't use something else just to save money. Let any of it go and you will pay for it in reduced lifetime of the machinery.

-The most expensive bike lube available will cost less for a year's supply than a single car oil change, though YMMV. Use what you like and don't cheap out. In the big picture it's a guilt-free issue. Just by lubing your drivetrain at all you are forestalling the need for manufacturing replacement components, so using whatever makes your drivetrain last longest makes the most sense, economically and environmentally.

reckon

+100000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 on the tri-flow

you can get all scientific and use a combination of dry moly lube and tri-flow, but really, just a regular cleaning, and the tri-flow is all ya need.

the regular cleaning is the step most people overlook and usually the reason the drive train wears out sooner than it should

Billy Bones

Chain oil lubricates nicely, but I'm convinced that dust, grit, cottonwood fluff, and dog hairs will jump 20 meters just to stick to it. Consider giving it a miss.

kemmer

Chainrings and cassettes don't come so cheap though... Not only that, but if a $20 chain lasts 4 times as long as a $10 hardware store chain it's a good investment. You are wasting a lot of time, money and natural resources by going through chains like that.