chainsaw chain oil for bike chain?
#2
Igor
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Maybe. that stuff is usually designed to be cleaned a lot. if you're willing to clean your chain every few rides it's probably ok. wax based stuff is the best, not light oil. helped a guy once who was using gun oil to lube his 9 speed chain and had worn it out in less than 1000 miles. entire drivetrain was shot because the oil picked up tiny bits of dirt. it would have been fine if he'd cleaned it after every use, like his gun, but he rode it for a few months.
Good bike specific lube will alway be cheaper than a cassette, so why risk it?
Good bike specific lube will alway be cheaper than a cassette, so why risk it?
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Ah! The eternal debate over which lube is best.
IMO wax based stuff SUCKS. It lubes well. But it is a royal pain in the ***** to clean off. Conventional chain cleaning chemicals are totally ineffective on wax. Proper chain maintenance requires frequent chain cleaning and relubing. Wax based stuff takes a 15-minute cleaning and relubing job and turns it into a 1 hr. job.
Bob
IMO wax based stuff SUCKS. It lubes well. But it is a royal pain in the ***** to clean off. Conventional chain cleaning chemicals are totally ineffective on wax. Proper chain maintenance requires frequent chain cleaning and relubing. Wax based stuff takes a 15-minute cleaning and relubing job and turns it into a 1 hr. job.
Bob
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I've cut my share of wood. Chain saw lube is nothing more than motor oil, at least that's what I've always used. Far too thick. Even the 2 cycle mix is too heavy. Go buy some triflow, it'll last you a couple of years.
#5
Making a kilometer blurry
I've been using air tool oil (not compressor oil), and my current chain has lasted longer than any chain I've had in the last 17 years. Air tool oil is lighter than chainsaw bar/chain oil, but not as light as gun oil.
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chain saw oil is sticky like honey. stickier than any other oil
it will grab dust out of the air and pile it on the chain for you,
plus if any does drip off it will leave a long stringer and that will hit
your frame or wheel making a mess
it will make a good lube yes, but it is prob the messiest way to go
it will grab dust out of the air and pile it on the chain for you,
plus if any does drip off it will leave a long stringer and that will hit
your frame or wheel making a mess
it will make a good lube yes, but it is prob the messiest way to go
#7
Senior Member
Its not the lube thats important, its how you use it and maintain it. I never take the chain off to clean it, only replace it. My method is to do a very little maintenance every time I ride, rather than take everything apart every few rides, soak in solvent and put it back together.
After every ride, I grab the chain with a rag and spin the cranks backward to clean the chain, then apply about a teaspoon of oil with a pump oil can. Elapsed time, about 30 seconds.
Next time I ride, I wipe the chain again to remove the excess lube. Elapsed time about, 30 seconds.
By spending a total of one minute of maintenance every time I ride, my chain stays visually clean and the drivetrain is whisper quiet shifts absolutely perfectly.
After every ride, I grab the chain with a rag and spin the cranks backward to clean the chain, then apply about a teaspoon of oil with a pump oil can. Elapsed time, about 30 seconds.
Next time I ride, I wipe the chain again to remove the excess lube. Elapsed time about, 30 seconds.
By spending a total of one minute of maintenance every time I ride, my chain stays visually clean and the drivetrain is whisper quiet shifts absolutely perfectly.
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#8
I don't know.
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someone should put a chainsaw chain on a fixie. that would be sinister.
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i pressure wash mine often
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It works, but like others have said it is very messy. After I apply it no matter how much I wipe off the excess, for the first 30 miles it splatters all over the rear of the bike necessitating a good cleaning.
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I am going to try foaming motorcycle chain oil next.
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I'm always amazed at how people are willing to jump through hoops to avoid using proper bicycle chain lube. They could have a 50-gallon drum of Finish Line, Dumonde Tech, Pedros, or White Lightning sitting in their living room, yet they'd spend hours trying to mix together a concoction of sesame oil, hairspray, and beet juice to dunk their chain in, hoping the one application would lube their chain for the next fifteen years.
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Two words: fish sauce
jim
jim
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I would think that any chain lube for engine powered chains would be too thick for
something human powered.
something human powered.
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#17
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Chain saw oil works. Almost any lubrication works. Keep your chain reasonably clean and lubricate it reasonably frequently.
You hit the Point of Diminishing Returns incredibly quickly on chain lube. If you value neither your time nor your money, you could certainly research the crap out of this, clean your chain with an ultrasonic cleaner every other day, and lube it with Dumond or Mobil1, straight, but ....why?
I apply a 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and Mobil1, with a toothbrush, AFTER every other ride or so, allowing the mineral spirits (that thin the Mobil1, allowing thorough penetration) to evaporate.
I get GREAT life out of chains, and that's with lots of hill climbing. I spend next to nothing on the mix.
If/where viscosity is a concern, you can thin it, but ... as Hobartlemagne said ... there is a point at which thick is too thick. You could probably follow the automotive manufacturers weight-vs.-temperature guidelines and not go too far wrong.
You hit the Point of Diminishing Returns incredibly quickly on chain lube. If you value neither your time nor your money, you could certainly research the crap out of this, clean your chain with an ultrasonic cleaner every other day, and lube it with Dumond or Mobil1, straight, but ....why?
I apply a 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and Mobil1, with a toothbrush, AFTER every other ride or so, allowing the mineral spirits (that thin the Mobil1, allowing thorough penetration) to evaporate.
I get GREAT life out of chains, and that's with lots of hill climbing. I spend next to nothing on the mix.
If/where viscosity is a concern, you can thin it, but ... as Hobartlemagne said ... there is a point at which thick is too thick. You could probably follow the automotive manufacturers weight-vs.-temperature guidelines and not go too far wrong.
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People need to get over this notion that you can throw any old oil on the chain and then go 500 miles before you have to deal with it again. Yeah, it'll still be working after all those miles, but it will be mega dirty and the equipment will be slowly degrading. Also, cleaning becomes a major chore. I know this approach is popular because I see a lot of cruddy drivetrains out there. But popularity doesn't make it right.
Instead, you should think like a watch maker. Clean, clean clean, and oh so lightly lubed. Then everything can work at it's best. I use Pro Link Gold, because a light lube lasts about 100 miles. Then it's clean and lube again. It is real easy to clean the chain without taking it off the bike because it never got dirty in the first place. Clean, lube and go. It costs, but you don't use much.
The way to tell when it's time to clean and lube; run your fingers back and forth over the rollers. Are they turning freely, like they do just after a lube job? If not, it's time to do it again. bk
Instead, you should think like a watch maker. Clean, clean clean, and oh so lightly lubed. Then everything can work at it's best. I use Pro Link Gold, because a light lube lasts about 100 miles. Then it's clean and lube again. It is real easy to clean the chain without taking it off the bike because it never got dirty in the first place. Clean, lube and go. It costs, but you don't use much.
The way to tell when it's time to clean and lube; run your fingers back and forth over the rollers. Are they turning freely, like they do just after a lube job? If not, it's time to do it again. bk
Last edited by bkaapcke; 01-23-08 at 11:34 AM.
#20
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Saw chain lube is designed to "stick" to the chain as saw chain is moving around 80-100 feet per second. A bike with a 53t spinning 120 rpm is maybe is 4.5-5 feet per second. It lubes fine but will cause a huge mess on a bicycle chain.
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#21
My bikes became Vintage
There are 2 grades of chainsaw oil, summer and winter. It penetrates rollers and sticks to the chain better than motor oil. I've used it on both bikes and motorcycles. It also has another property that's not necessary for bike chains; it dissolves tree resin from the sap.
We see endless debates here over chain oil and most of them are just a waste of space. Basically, oil, any oil, is better than no oil and it's better to use a little more often than a lot just when it squeaks. Paraffin wax is less messy, but it doesn't last long and has marginal lubricating properties.
We see endless debates here over chain oil and most of them are just a waste of space. Basically, oil, any oil, is better than no oil and it's better to use a little more often than a lot just when it squeaks. Paraffin wax is less messy, but it doesn't last long and has marginal lubricating properties.
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I'm always amazed at how people are willing to jump through hoops to avoid using proper bicycle chain lube. They could have a 50-gallon drum of Finish Line, Dumonde Tech, Pedros, or White Lightning sitting in their living room, yet they'd spend hours trying to mix together a concoction of sesame oil, hairspray, and beet juice to dunk their chain in, hoping the one application would lube their chain for the next fifteen years.
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#23
My bikes became Vintage
Lubing a bicycle chain isn't rocket science. Re-inventing the wheel isn't isn't necessary. While using one of the specialty lubes may have certain advantages, whatever is in the oil can will work fine too.
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chain saw oil is sticky like honey. stickier than any other oil
it will grab dust out of the air and pile it on the chain for you,
plus if any does drip off it will leave a long stringer and that will hit
your frame or wheel making a mess
it will make a good lube yes, but it is prob the messiest way to go
it will grab dust out of the air and pile it on the chain for you,
plus if any does drip off it will leave a long stringer and that will hit
your frame or wheel making a mess
it will make a good lube yes, but it is prob the messiest way to go