Drivetrain cleaning
#51
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Made a detailed explanation on bike bearing greases here:
Bicycle bearing greases - explained - Bike Gremlin - Bicycles
Now gathering funds to do a comparative lab test of various commercially available and OEM installed ones.
#52
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The law of diminishing returns can apply to chains. Is it really worth spending hours to clean a part that can be replaced for $25 bucks and will work well? In my opinion, no. However, if you have an old chain that's been on the bike for years and a new one will cause problems because of worn cogs then that's a different matter.
I used to use mineral spirits or parts degreaser from Napa to clean chains and now use Zep citrus degreaser and it works really well. So does mineral spirits though. If you're going to this much trouble you might as well go asll the way and convert over to wax-based lubes as they require far less cleaning in my experience.
I used to use mineral spirits or parts degreaser from Napa to clean chains and now use Zep citrus degreaser and it works really well. So does mineral spirits though. If you're going to this much trouble you might as well go asll the way and convert over to wax-based lubes as they require far less cleaning in my experience.
Factory lube https://www.fuchs.com/lubritech/?pag...d_produkt=2993
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The link takes me to a login page. Could you please specify the exact product name so that we can locate the product? Also, how do you know that the this is the factory lube? Fuchs themselves don't mention anything bicycle related. We're left to guess which of their products would be the best match for a bicycle chain. My guess is Gleitmo 900 spray/dip, but I'm really curious to know what product you linked to. Thanks.
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#55
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From my past digging, I gathered that the product that Fuchs sells to chain manufacturers is similar to the Gleitmo or may use the Gleitmo's basic chemistry but it is tailored to their specifications. In other words, you likely can't buy the same product nor apply it in the same manner as they do at the factory.
#56
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#58
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If you don't like wasting material, consider how much your cleaning costs and how much waste is generated. I have a cup of mineral spirits that I have used for a bunch of chains...probably around 1 to 2 dozen. That could be up to 84,000 miles of bicycling. I use it once at the beginning and that's it. No other cleaning, no other waste. If I need to refresh the mineral spirits...you lose some when you use it...I pour it out of a can of mineral spirits that I bought before 2000 and for which I paid around $10. I still have most of the can left.
Now compare that to your cleaning system. You clean every 800 miles or 18 times over 15,000 miles on the chain. Your ultrasonicator takes about a liter to use it, so that 18 liters of cleaning solvent for which you had to pay something...let's say $10. The ultrasonicator you linked to cost $60 if you are lucky enough to find it on sale or $195 full retail. Even at $60, you've invested more than I have in my cleaning "system"...a used Gatorade bottle.
Doing the math, I've used 4 chains to your one which costs me about $60. My cleaning system costs me $10. I'm in for $70 and, roughly an hour of my time over 4 chains.
You paid $14 for your chain, $10 for degreaser, and $60 for the ultrasonicator for a total of $84 and from 4 to 18 hours of your time. Plus you have generated a bunch more waste to be disposed of...it really shouldn't be flushed down the drain...than I have.
Now compare that to your cleaning system. You clean every 800 miles or 18 times over 15,000 miles on the chain. Your ultrasonicator takes about a liter to use it, so that 18 liters of cleaning solvent for which you had to pay something...let's say $10. The ultrasonicator you linked to cost $60 if you are lucky enough to find it on sale or $195 full retail. Even at $60, you've invested more than I have in my cleaning "system"...a used Gatorade bottle.
Doing the math, I've used 4 chains to your one which costs me about $60. My cleaning system costs me $10. I'm in for $70 and, roughly an hour of my time over 4 chains.
You paid $14 for your chain, $10 for degreaser, and $60 for the ultrasonicator for a total of $84 and from 4 to 18 hours of your time. Plus you have generated a bunch more waste to be disposed of...it really shouldn't be flushed down the drain...than I have.
Damn, your good. But my feet are wet.
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Sounds promising, although I am probably still going to soak the chain in a mineral spirit bath as suggested and see how that turns out. Does the wire wheel have to be a specific guage to avoid damaging the chain?
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#63
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Here's an example of a chain cleaned with a wire wheel. The chain was initially soaked in solvent and scrubbed with a brush before getting the wire wheel treatment:
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I use a chain cleaner from Nashbar,then brush a mixture of melted parrafin and solvent about 2/3 solvent 1/3 parrafin . It goes on with a toothbrush. As long as the jar of lube and the bike are reasonably warm (like 70 and in the sun) it goes on easily and no black hands when touching chain. I just reapply after riding in real heavy rain or snow. To mix it up just put the ingredients in jar for a few days in a warm place until parrafin dissolves.
#65
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Thats a weak solvent. Have never had any issues cleaning a chain in OMS, petrol, ... ? Once I discovered I could just shake the chain in a jar of OMS, I have not needed wire wheel or any other brushes.
#66
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I use a chain cleaner from Nashbar,then brush a mixture of melted parrafin and solvent about 2/3 solvent 1/3 parrafin . It goes on with a toothbrush. As long as the jar of lube and the bike are reasonably warm (like 70 and in the sun) it goes on easily and no black hands when touching chain. I just reapply after riding in real heavy rain or snow. To mix it up just put the ingredients in jar for a few days in a warm place until parrafin dissolves.
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As it happens, that was soaked in OMS, well, SafetyKleen's version of OMS, anyway.
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Naptha and wax beat everything else
After 50 years, my simplest solution is 1) use/add a quick link like a Wipperman that can be easily removed and replaced by hand; 2) remove a dirty chain, immerse in naptha (a few $ a gallon, cheap Coleman fuel) in a small Gatorade bottle, agitate, soak for a few minutes to overnight; 3) Remove, wipe clean with rag or old not too fuzzy cloth, air dry; 4)Return to bike, after separately washing rear cogs and chainrings if required; 5) apply lube sparingly, Squirt being a good waxy product. Wipe off excess.
My best choice is to actually use paraffin, in a shallow pan, melting just enough to liquefy with the dry clean chain immersed. Stir a few times with a hemostat or pliers, pull slowly up as wax runs off, then lay it onto a newspaper and agitate to remove excess- careful, as it is a hot chain! Wipe more as temp drops, then hang to cool. Then, just reinstall with no further oil, and ride for a couple minutes to loosen the wax stiffness. Lasts several times as long as the best oils, much quieter, attracts no dirt or dust, can be wiped clean; extend intervals with a wax compatible lube (Squirt), then repeat. Wax is easier to clean off, and reapply, the heat being the only crux, as hot wax can spill and burn skin badly.
My best choice is to actually use paraffin, in a shallow pan, melting just enough to liquefy with the dry clean chain immersed. Stir a few times with a hemostat or pliers, pull slowly up as wax runs off, then lay it onto a newspaper and agitate to remove excess- careful, as it is a hot chain! Wipe more as temp drops, then hang to cool. Then, just reinstall with no further oil, and ride for a couple minutes to loosen the wax stiffness. Lasts several times as long as the best oils, much quieter, attracts no dirt or dust, can be wiped clean; extend intervals with a wax compatible lube (Squirt), then repeat. Wax is easier to clean off, and reapply, the heat being the only crux, as hot wax can spill and burn skin badly.
#71
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I clean my chains very frequently, especially on my gravel bike which just attracts abrasive grit. I find it pretty quick and easy, maybe only 7 or 10 minutes, maybe a bit longer depending how deep I get into cleaning the cassette and such. With a hose behind the house; and get a small bucket of warm soap water. 1. Spray off bike & chain 2. A little chain cleaner on a Park Tools cassette brush, I go over the chain and cassette and cog wheels for a minute or to to knock off the worst of the grit; then quick rinse. 2. Park Tools chain cleaner and solution; I clip if over the chain and back pedal it through for maybe a minute. Remove & rinse chain with hose. 3. Now with warm soapy water, I give my bike a quick cleaning, then saturate a sponge and run the chain through that. You need to get off all the degreaser, or else the subsequent lube won't take. 5. Rinse chain one last time with hose to get off the soap. Its really clean now 5. I then wipe off my bike and chain, and let the chain dry well before reapplying lube of your choice. At least that's what I do, anyway
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I usually mix the paraffin with paint thinner but kerosene works too it just has a pinkish color. I have been gradually increasing the amount of solvent to the paraffin. It goes on easier and I think being thinner soaks in better.I don't heat the mixture at all just leave it in sun a few hours to thin it as it warms.
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Well, maybe not *key*, but this is the way I do mine. I use a peanut butter jar with a tight-fitting lid. The chain goes in and about a half cup of kerosene is added. Lid tightened; shaken vigorously. Depending on how much sediment I see, I may lift the chain out, drain the jar into a "settling" container, wipe out any residual sediment. Once the sediment is gone, I'll use a couple more rinses with fresh (or recycled) kerosene. The chain is then hung up to drain for a while, preferably overnight. The kerosene used is allowed to settle for a few days, then the clear (if colored) supernatant is decanted off for future use. It can be re-used this way many times.
Why kerosene? It's readily available, inexpensive, relatively non-toxic and much less flammable (and therefore safer) than gasoline. Another acceptable choice IMO is WD-40 (I have a gallon can of the stuff!), but I prefer kerosene.
I've never seen residue that requires scrubbing over and above the shaking. When the chain is shaken, there is contact with other chain links which may substitute for scrubbing.
I don't want to rain on anyone's parade, but I don't like the idea of wire-wheeling the chain. For one thing, that will aerosolize the solvent and debris; a mask should be worn in addition to the recommended safety glasses. It might also be a finger-snagging hazard. For another, it must make a hell of a mess. The wire wheel will only clean the side plates; it can't get between the moving parts or into the spaces for the cogs (note the correct use of "cogs" ). The chain may look better, but the outsides of the side plates are not involved in wear processes of the chain or sprockets.
Steve
Why kerosene? It's readily available, inexpensive, relatively non-toxic and much less flammable (and therefore safer) than gasoline. Another acceptable choice IMO is WD-40 (I have a gallon can of the stuff!), but I prefer kerosene.
I've never seen residue that requires scrubbing over and above the shaking. When the chain is shaken, there is contact with other chain links which may substitute for scrubbing.
I don't want to rain on anyone's parade, but I don't like the idea of wire-wheeling the chain. For one thing, that will aerosolize the solvent and debris; a mask should be worn in addition to the recommended safety glasses. It might also be a finger-snagging hazard. For another, it must make a hell of a mess. The wire wheel will only clean the side plates; it can't get between the moving parts or into the spaces for the cogs (note the correct use of "cogs" ). The chain may look better, but the outsides of the side plates are not involved in wear processes of the chain or sprockets.
Steve
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Extra Virgin olive oil
I use Mean Green in a plastic peanut butter jar to Clean with énergetic shake, let dry then use extra Virgin olive oil to lubricate . Then put back on bike and remove all I can with a rag and use à rag again after à ride. I add olive oil when I « hear » the chaîn after 150 to 200 kms. I repeat everything after 1000 kms. At 12000 kms the wear is 1/16 the of an inch so the chain is still good for another 12000 kms.
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I would caution against WD-40. It's not the solution that's the problem, it's the added mineral oil that you don't really need. WD-40 is just mineral spirits with about 25% mineral oil added to it. Using straight mineral spirits just cuts out the unnecessary bits.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!