It's Not About the Bike, but....
04-23-08, 01:11 PM
#26
Aut Vincere Aut Mori
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Fixing your saddle angle (mandatory unless you're into ED problems...) and gradually dropping your bars on your current ride may make you faster, provided you've got the flexibility, or the discipline to follow a stretching/yoga program.
The other bike...no difference at all. I would sell the triple rig, and buy a double for crisper shifting. You can probably break even, or make a few bucks doing the swap via ebay.
The other bike...no difference at all. I would sell the triple rig, and buy a double for crisper shifting. You can probably break even, or make a few bucks doing the swap via ebay.
04-23-08, 01:23 PM
#27
Batüwü Creakcreak
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Honestly, I'd save up for something else.
If you wanted to throw down money for a new frame, get a CAAD9 or Six13 off ebay. It'll probably serve you better.
If you actually want to get faster as a result of the engine and not the equipment, then train right and possibly get a powertap instead.
The most gains I've seen in my speed have been in the last couple of months (since I started racing) and the entire time I've been riding and racing an 80's steel trek because I'm waiting on a new CAAD9 frame (fit is off on current one). After racing in a few crits, I found that I could take a lot more pain than I ever thought I could handle. Training to this level allowed me to get faster than before. The bike is 3+ lbs heavier.
If you wanted to throw down money for a new frame, get a CAAD9 or Six13 off ebay. It'll probably serve you better.
If you actually want to get faster as a result of the engine and not the equipment, then train right and possibly get a powertap instead.
The most gains I've seen in my speed have been in the last couple of months (since I started racing) and the entire time I've been riding and racing an 80's steel trek because I'm waiting on a new CAAD9 frame (fit is off on current one). After racing in a few crits, I found that I could take a lot more pain than I ever thought I could handle. Training to this level allowed me to get faster than before. The bike is 3+ lbs heavier.
04-23-08, 01:55 PM
#28
Genetics have failed me
Were they flat crits though?
I raced just fine on my 84 steel trek, but I felt the weight when we were accelerating hard out of corners. It took me about half a second longer to get up to speed than everyone else. I'm guessing I wouldn't have been that much faster overall on my cannondale, but I would have been able to accelerate a little more efficiently.
I raced just fine on my 84 steel trek, but I felt the weight when we were accelerating hard out of corners. It took me about half a second longer to get up to speed than everyone else. I'm guessing I wouldn't have been that much faster overall on my cannondale, but I would have been able to accelerate a little more efficiently.
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04-23-08, 02:13 PM
#29
Batüwü Creakcreak
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Yeah, a lighter bike does not really help in a situation like that. If there was climbing involved or hard out of corner sprinting, then you would have noticed.
04-23-08, 02:48 PM
#31
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04-23-08, 03:20 PM
#32
Crushing souls
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No. Some of us don't have the $$ to get the schwagg. I can't even afford a pair of Zipps. 
you people make me feel left out....
you people make me feel left out....
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Last edited by Hickeydog; 04-23-08 at 03:38 PM.
04-23-08, 03:33 PM
#33
.....
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Ok here is something I can give real life info. I started on a 2006 Lemond Reno just like the both of you have. Triple and bone stock (except saddle, stem and pedals). Heres a pic.
From that I just built up a 2006 Cannondale CAAD8. Full Ultegra. Double. Much much better components on every part of the bike. The Cannondale weighs over 3 pounds less. Heres a pic.
The difference between the two is really not that big. I can not see saying I lost a race because of the Lemond being "slower". The only reason I replaced it was because I didn't fit to well on it and wanted a different size frame. I wish I could say I got on the Cannondale and was much faster BUT I wasn't.
04-23-08, 03:38 PM
#34
Clinically Insane
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Yes, the bike does make a difference. By that I mean fit. The single easiest way to up your power is to improve your position on the bike. Perhaps a good fitting will do you good, unless your absolutley confident your good now. Thats the only way I can think of short of some Zipps that you can turn $ into speed.
04-23-08, 03:39 PM
#35
Peloton Shelter Dog
My Six13 with Zipp tubulars is by far the fastest racing bike I've ever had, and it is a bit faster. A bit faster. It's the engine boys.
04-24-08, 06:23 AM
#39
.....
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Bars: Reynolds Ouzo Race Al Road Bar 44cm c-c
Full details here
https://bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=407136
Full details here
https://bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=407136
04-24-08, 10:04 AM
#40
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Just found out that I can get my hands on a '09 Orca with SRAM Force with HED 60's for about $4,000!!! Wait till you can get your hands on a bike that you love, don't settle on something that you will want to replace in another year.
04-24-08, 10:10 AM
#41
....gets the cheese
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Hmmm. That would be a bit of an upgrade, wouldn't it?
04-24-08, 10:27 AM
#42
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04-24-08, 10:53 AM
#43
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yah from this (20 + pounds):
To this (sub a Fizik Aliante Carbon saddle, speedplay zero's and HED 60 wheels):
To this (sub a Fizik Aliante Carbon saddle, speedplay zero's and HED 60 wheels):
04-24-08, 11:34 AM
#45
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Edit: And if you haven't figured out yet, I am mostly just jealous that I don't have a PM. I do, however, believe that most people should learn how to race for a year or two before they get a PM.
04-24-08, 11:37 AM
#46
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