Would using a non suspension corrected fork make for better a better "basket packer"
08-29-23, 08:58 AM
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Would using a non suspension corrected fork make for better a better "basket packer"
There's a not quite C&V aluminum Rock Hopper down at the scrap yard. It has a suspension fork that may or may not be salvageable. I have a ridgid non suspension fork that would fit, and as this would be a bit shorter will increase the head tube angle and reduce the trail a bit. If I kept this bike it would probably end up a single speed and spend most it's time on pavement. I like having a wald basket for cruising around, so what I'm wondering is whether the fork swap would make this bike handle a front load better than the high trail junker I'm riding now.
Last edited by bark_eater; 08-29-23 at 10:48 AM.
08-29-23, 10:35 AM
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Went back and got it with out the crappy non original wheels fo $10.
The fork I have in mind is from a nicer Trek wrek, and is threaded, so hopefully I can get it to work with some combination of headset and spacers.
The fork I have in mind is from a nicer Trek wrek, and is threaded, so hopefully I can get it to work with some combination of headset and spacers.
Last edited by bark_eater; 08-29-23 at 10:39 AM.
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08-29-23, 01:27 PM
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08-29-23, 01:47 PM
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The thing I would worry about in this case is changing the axle-crown measurement too much. You might be better off with a suspension-corrected rigid fork that you would have to pay real money for.
Get a rough measurement of the suspension A-C, subtract 25% of the travel, and see how close that is to the A-C of the fork you want to replace it with. There are online calculators that should help you decide if you changed the head tube angle and trail too much to result in reasonable handling. The likelihood is it's going to increase trail, which isn't great for a front basket.
Get a rough measurement of the suspension A-C, subtract 25% of the travel, and see how close that is to the A-C of the fork you want to replace it with. There are online calculators that should help you decide if you changed the head tube angle and trail too much to result in reasonable handling. The likelihood is it's going to increase trail, which isn't great for a front basket.
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08-29-23, 02:14 PM
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The thing I would worry about in this case is changing the axle-crown measurement too much. You might be better off with a suspension-corrected rigid fork that you would have to pay real money for.
Get a rough measurement of the suspension A-C, subtract 25% of the travel, and see how close that is to the A-C of the fork you want to replace it with. There are online calculators that should help you decide if you changed the head tube angle and trail too much to result in reasonable handling. The likelihood is it's going to increase trail, which isn't great for a front basket.
Get a rough measurement of the suspension A-C, subtract 25% of the travel, and see how close that is to the A-C of the fork you want to replace it with. There are online calculators that should help you decide if you changed the head tube angle and trail too much to result in reasonable handling. The likelihood is it's going to increase trail, which isn't great for a front basket.
08-29-23, 02:21 PM
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If the result is too-quick steering, the OP can just throw something in their basket. All my bikes except mountain bikes have front bags, so it's easy to slow down the steering a little.
Also, an angleset might help.
Also, an angleset might help.
