Roubaix Sport geometry for about $300?
10-27-21, 12:20 PM
#1
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Roubaix Sport geometry for about $300?
Before some of you launch your shoe through the screen, hear me out. I'd like to get a dedicated bike for my trainer for a few reasons and was wondering if anyone here knew of any bikes (old or new) that had similar geometry to the Roubaix? Doesn't have to be identical, but within the same hemisphere. I've already read a few threads on here and the only take away was people suggesting to get something with a similar fit and position to the bike I ride, but nothing bike-specific, which is why I created this thread.
I'm assuming going used is my best bet, but perhaps one of you has stumbled upon any decent alternatives on sites like Amazon, Walmart, etc? Last time I checked, there aren't any bikes in the shops in my area for that price, so figured I'd try to find something online. Whether used on eBay or Craigslist or new on any other site, any recommendations would be welcome and appreciated
I'm assuming going used is my best bet, but perhaps one of you has stumbled upon any decent alternatives on sites like Amazon, Walmart, etc? Last time I checked, there aren't any bikes in the shops in my area for that price, so figured I'd try to find something online. Whether used on eBay or Craigslist or new on any other site, any recommendations would be welcome and appreciated
10-27-21, 12:56 PM
#2
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Most bikes could be made to work.
You can get a lot of adjustability with different stems especially if it is on a trainer so it doesn't matter how it handles or looks.
If your handlebars are reasonably high make sure you get something that hasn't had the steerer cut short.
You can get a lot of adjustability with different stems especially if it is on a trainer so it doesn't matter how it handles or looks.
If your handlebars are reasonably high make sure you get something that hasn't had the steerer cut short.
10-27-21, 01:30 PM
#3
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Look at the geometry specs for that model and year if you can find them. Some mfr's have the specs in archives or even have product pages for prior year models that you can find in a google search or site search.
I'm thinking that if you want a similar feel position-wise on the bike, then you'll want to take frame stack, frame reach, bb drop and seat tube angle into account. If you match those up then moving bars and a few other things will get you the same position.
Of course if you are looking for supercheap bikes that had a super cheap price when new, you might not find any geometry specs easily.
I'm thinking that if you want a similar feel position-wise on the bike, then you'll want to take frame stack, frame reach, bb drop and seat tube angle into account. If you match those up then moving bars and a few other things will get you the same position.
Of course if you are looking for supercheap bikes that had a super cheap price when new, you might not find any geometry specs easily.
10-27-21, 01:35 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Most bikes could be made to work.
You can get a lot of adjustability with different stems especially if it is on a trainer so it doesn't matter how it handles or looks.
If your handlebars are reasonably high make sure you get something that hasn't had the steerer cut short.
You can get a lot of adjustability with different stems especially if it is on a trainer so it doesn't matter how it handles or looks.
If your handlebars are reasonably high make sure you get something that hasn't had the steerer cut short.
And just to clarify, are you suggesting that when dealing with a stationary bike it doesn't really matter if I bought a used bike from a known brand (like, say, the Trek 5200, which I've heard mentioned on here and sells for about $300) or even a new, though generic, brand like this:
https://www.amazon.com/EUROBIKE-EURX...dp/B07GZCKG2S/
10-27-21, 01:36 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Look at the geometry specs for that model and year if you can find them. Some mfr's have the specs in archives or even have product pages for prior year models that you can find in a google search or site search.
I'm thinking that if you want a similar feel position-wise on the bike, then you'll want to take frame stack, frame reach, bb drop and seat tube angle into account. If you match those up then moving bars and a few other things will get you the same position.
Of course if you are looking for supercheap bikes that had a super cheap price when new, you might not find any geometry specs easily.
I'm thinking that if you want a similar feel position-wise on the bike, then you'll want to take frame stack, frame reach, bb drop and seat tube angle into account. If you match those up then moving bars and a few other things will get you the same position.
Of course if you are looking for supercheap bikes that had a super cheap price when new, you might not find any geometry specs easily.
10-27-21, 04:33 PM
#6
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Before some of you launch your shoe through the screen, hear me out. I'd like to get a dedicated bike for my trainer for a few reasons and was wondering if anyone here knew of any bikes (old or new) that had similar geometry to the Roubaix? Doesn't have to be identical, but within the same hemisphere. I've already read a few threads on here and the only take away was people suggesting to get something with a similar fit and position to the bike I ride, but nothing bike-specific, which is why I created this thread.
I'm assuming going used is my best bet, but perhaps one of you has stumbled upon any decent alternatives on sites like Amazon, Walmart, etc? Last time I checked, there aren't any bikes in the shops in my area for that price, so figured I'd try to find something online. Whether used on eBay or Craigslist or new on any other site, any recommendations would be welcome and appreciated
I'm assuming going used is my best bet, but perhaps one of you has stumbled upon any decent alternatives on sites like Amazon, Walmart, etc? Last time I checked, there aren't any bikes in the shops in my area for that price, so figured I'd try to find something online. Whether used on eBay or Craigslist or new on any other site, any recommendations would be welcome and appreciated
I'm not touching the Walmart idea. Amazon has had discounted bikes from Raleigh, Diamondback Cinelli, etc in the past, but I doubt anyone here keeps up on what is randomly on there as overstock...especially since there is such little overstock right now.
10-27-21, 05:27 PM
#7
Lurker
The best bike calculator I have found to try to match contact points on different bikes if I know the geometry or can measure things with the bike in hand.
https://www.bikegeocalc.com/
edit ... more details!
Here is the comparison I did between my Bombtrack Hook2 gravel bike and my H1 fit Trek Domane back when I set them up with the components I have. I wanted the bars a little higher on the Bombtrack for long ride comfort, and I can see the taller stack naturally makes that happen. I can also see I have not exactly matched the reach on both bikes, and after riding them for a while, I find I could use maybe a slightly longer stem on the Trek. Sometimes I feel a little cramped on that bike.
https://www.bikegeocalc.com/#23Bombt...E45F170G30H30Z
https://www.bikegeocalc.com/
edit ... more details!
Here is the comparison I did between my Bombtrack Hook2 gravel bike and my H1 fit Trek Domane back when I set them up with the components I have. I wanted the bars a little higher on the Bombtrack for long ride comfort, and I can see the taller stack naturally makes that happen. I can also see I have not exactly matched the reach on both bikes, and after riding them for a while, I find I could use maybe a slightly longer stem on the Trek. Sometimes I feel a little cramped on that bike.
https://www.bikegeocalc.com/#23Bombt...E45F170G30H30Z
Last edited by esarhaddon; 10-27-21 at 05:41 PM.
10-27-21, 05:57 PM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Wait, why not? Would you not choose a generic bike for a trainer? I have a feeling that I might wind up doing just that, so any thoughts on that would be great.
The best bike calculator I have found to try to match contact points on different bikes if I know the geometry or can measure things with the bike in hand.
https://www.bikegeocalc.com/
edit ... more details!
Here is the comparison I did between my Bombtrack Hook2 gravel bike and my H1 fit Trek Domane back when I set them up with the components I have. I wanted the bars a little higher on the Bombtrack for long ride comfort, and I can see the taller stack naturally makes that happen. I can also see I have not exactly matched the reach on both bikes, and after riding them for a while, I find I could use maybe a slightly longer stem on the Trek. Sometimes I feel a little cramped on that bike.
https://www.bikegeocalc.com/#23Bombt...E45F170G30H30Z
https://www.bikegeocalc.com/
edit ... more details!
Here is the comparison I did between my Bombtrack Hook2 gravel bike and my H1 fit Trek Domane back when I set them up with the components I have. I wanted the bars a little higher on the Bombtrack for long ride comfort, and I can see the taller stack naturally makes that happen. I can also see I have not exactly matched the reach on both bikes, and after riding them for a while, I find I could use maybe a slightly longer stem on the Trek. Sometimes I feel a little cramped on that bike.
https://www.bikegeocalc.com/#23Bombt...E45F170G30H30Z
10-28-21, 09:41 AM
#9
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Full disclosure, I can't stand riding indoors on a trainer or stationary bike. I do some every winter but not to the point where it's regular or much help for me.
I find that I prefer my wife's stationary bike more. And I don't set it up anything like my position on my Tarmac. When indoors I prefer the much more upright position I can get on a large comfy saddle and just spin till my hearts content with low resistance. It's probably closer to the position one would have on a cruiser bike with the BB farther forward of the saddle and the saddle lower than one would have on any other bike.
So have you much time on your trainer and know that you'll enjoy using it in the same position as you ride the roads?
I find that I prefer my wife's stationary bike more. And I don't set it up anything like my position on my Tarmac. When indoors I prefer the much more upright position I can get on a large comfy saddle and just spin till my hearts content with low resistance. It's probably closer to the position one would have on a cruiser bike with the BB farther forward of the saddle and the saddle lower than one would have on any other bike.
So have you much time on your trainer and know that you'll enjoy using it in the same position as you ride the roads?
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10-28-21, 09:02 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
No, not much. I've got a few miles on it so far and I did actually enjoy the position. To some degree it did kind of remind me of being outside. So I'm not sure if I'll be going the upright position route anytime soon, but I'll definitely keep it in mind.
10-29-21, 07:46 AM
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I find that the front end position is a lot less important on the trainer ie. stack and reach (providing it's not a million miles off). As long as you can get your correct saddle height and setback, then pretty much any frame of equivalent size should work for you. The rest of the frame geometry is pretty irrelevant indoors. But you will want a half-decent drivetrain with ideally similar gearing to your outdoor bike.
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10-30-21, 10:19 AM
#12
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I find that the front end position is a lot less important on the trainer ie. stack and reach (providing it's not a million miles off). As long as you can get your correct saddle height and setback, then pretty much any frame of equivalent size should work for you. The rest of the frame geometry is pretty irrelevant indoors. But you will want a half-decent drivetrain with ideally similar gearing to your outdoor bike.
10-30-21, 11:13 AM
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What kind of trainer is it? Direct drive or wheel-on?
As some others have said, most bikes can probably be made to work with the same saddle-to-pedals geometry, and your front-end is less relevant, but it's probably worth your while actually getting something that's relatively serviceable as a spare bike.
As some others have said, most bikes can probably be made to work with the same saddle-to-pedals geometry, and your front-end is less relevant, but it's probably worth your while actually getting something that's relatively serviceable as a spare bike.
10-30-21, 11:43 PM
#14
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Thread Starter
It's direct drive. Does that matter?
Is that something you adjust yourself, by moving the seat back or forth? Or are you talking about a set position the seat has in relation to the pedals, that can't be adjusted? If the latter, what would I search for when looking for the measurements online? I searched for setback and my bike and nothing came up outside of a thread on here that used that word.
Yea' that was my intention with creating this thread. I just don't know what to buy. I'll keep checking threads on here, though, to see what others picked up and take it from there, I guess.
Yea' that was my intention with creating this thread. I just don't know what to buy. I'll keep checking threads on here, though, to see what others picked up and take it from there, I guess.
11-01-21, 10:23 AM
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It's direct drive. Does that matter?
Is that something you adjust yourself, by moving the seat back or forth? Or are you talking about a set position the seat has in relation to the pedals, that can't be adjusted? If the latter, what would I search for when looking for the measurements online? I searched for setback and my bike and nothing came up outside of a thread on here that used that word.
Yea' that was my intention with creating this thread. I just don't know what to buy. I'll keep checking threads on here, though, to see what others picked up and take it from there, I guess.
Is that something you adjust yourself, by moving the seat back or forth? Or are you talking about a set position the seat has in relation to the pedals, that can't be adjusted? If the latter, what would I search for when looking for the measurements online? I searched for setback and my bike and nothing came up outside of a thread on here that used that word.
Yea' that was my intention with creating this thread. I just don't know what to buy. I'll keep checking threads on here, though, to see what others picked up and take it from there, I guess.
2. Just that if you're trying to recreate your Roubaix's geometry, the main thing is to have your saddle at the same height and layback from your bottom bracket (ie, the centre of where your pedals are). You can probably achieve this with almost any bike and just setting the seatpost height and saddle fore/aft. At the very most, you might have to get a seatpost with a different setback. You could get any race/touring/even mtb frame, put it on the trainer, and as long as you've got the height and layback right, you really won't notice much difference, unless you actually plan on taking it out on the road which brings us to...
3. Check websites of manufacturers what their "comfort geo" bike is. Cannondale have the Synapse, Trek domane etc. You might also be able to find a gravel bike like a Diamondback Haanjo for a good price.
11-01-21, 10:31 AM
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A direct drive? Geometry don't make much a difference.
Look up a few articles on matching bike fit across bikes -- there are a couple different ways to make sure the saddle/pedals are the same (including setback). My personal preference, for what it's worth, is to have my trainer bike setup with the handlebars a little higher than my 'outside' bike. But really, as long as it's close, it'll be good to go. A similarly-sized frame from CL would do the job. And then put money into the saddle.
good luck--
Look up a few articles on matching bike fit across bikes -- there are a couple different ways to make sure the saddle/pedals are the same (including setback). My personal preference, for what it's worth, is to have my trainer bike setup with the handlebars a little higher than my 'outside' bike. But really, as long as it's close, it'll be good to go. A similarly-sized frame from CL would do the job. And then put money into the saddle.
good luck--
11-02-21, 05:13 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
1. Doesn't really matter in terms of the question. You don't need to worry too much about the quality/condition of the rear wheel of whatever you buy if it is.
2. Just that if you're trying to recreate your Roubaix's geometry, the main thing is to have your saddle at the same height and layback from your bottom bracket (ie, the centre of where your pedals are). You can probably achieve this with almost any bike and just setting the seatpost height and saddle fore/aft. At the very most, you might have to get a seatpost with a different setback. You could get any race/touring/even mtb frame, put it on the trainer, and as long as you've got the height and layback right, you really won't notice much difference, unless you actually plan on taking it out on the road which brings us to...
3. Check websites of manufacturers what their "comfort geo" bike is. Cannondale have the Synapse, Trek domane etc. You might also be able to find a gravel bike like a Diamondback Haanjo for a good price.
2. Just that if you're trying to recreate your Roubaix's geometry, the main thing is to have your saddle at the same height and layback from your bottom bracket (ie, the centre of where your pedals are). You can probably achieve this with almost any bike and just setting the seatpost height and saddle fore/aft. At the very most, you might have to get a seatpost with a different setback. You could get any race/touring/even mtb frame, put it on the trainer, and as long as you've got the height and layback right, you really won't notice much difference, unless you actually plan on taking it out on the road which brings us to...
3. Check websites of manufacturers what their "comfort geo" bike is. Cannondale have the Synapse, Trek domane etc. You might also be able to find a gravel bike like a Diamondback Haanjo for a good price.
A direct drive? Geometry don't make much a difference.
Look up a few articles on matching bike fit across bikes -- there are a couple different ways to make sure the saddle/pedals are the same (including setback). My personal preference, for what it's worth, is to have my trainer bike setup with the handlebars a little higher than my 'outside' bike. But really, as long as it's close, it'll be good to go. A similarly-sized frame from CL would do the job. And then put money into the saddle.
good luck--
Look up a few articles on matching bike fit across bikes -- there are a couple different ways to make sure the saddle/pedals are the same (including setback). My personal preference, for what it's worth, is to have my trainer bike setup with the handlebars a little higher than my 'outside' bike. But really, as long as it's close, it'll be good to go. A similarly-sized frame from CL would do the job. And then put money into the saddle.
good luck--
