1968 Frejus Tour De France Project
01-19-23, 02:18 PM
#26
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@tiger1964 Ben figured out how to get around that. 
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Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
01-19-23, 03:05 PM
#27
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01-19-23, 09:06 PM
#28
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You are lucky that the seatpost has a forged cradle. Put the frame upside-down in a vise and dribble the thinnest liquid penetrant you can down the seattube - at least enough to fill the post and bring the level above the bottom of the post when inverted.
Then, as your whims and patience allow, every now and then grab the seatpost and headtube, and try to rotate the frame around the post. Do not grab the stays; easy to make that mistake and windup cold setting the rear triangle unexpectedly. It might take days, but if you can get it to budge just once, you've opened the door for continued motion. Keep at it back and forth until it pops a few times more; at that point, it'll get looser and looser. The penetrant just might start to get in between the tube and the post too (though you won't be able to see it; it won't really drip out until it's entirely loose.
You might get to a point where it'll loosen up but won't move. At this point, you need to find a way to either re-mount the vise to the floor or have a really sturdy workbench you can stand on - so as to pull upwards on the frame while alternating the main triangle back and forth.
It also helps immensely if your vise doesn't have the ability to rotate. Mine is welded to prevent such. Unrelated pic, but you can see the weld bead on it:
-Kurt
Then, as your whims and patience allow, every now and then grab the seatpost and headtube, and try to rotate the frame around the post. Do not grab the stays; easy to make that mistake and windup cold setting the rear triangle unexpectedly. It might take days, but if you can get it to budge just once, you've opened the door for continued motion. Keep at it back and forth until it pops a few times more; at that point, it'll get looser and looser. The penetrant just might start to get in between the tube and the post too (though you won't be able to see it; it won't really drip out until it's entirely loose.
You might get to a point where it'll loosen up but won't move. At this point, you need to find a way to either re-mount the vise to the floor or have a really sturdy workbench you can stand on - so as to pull upwards on the frame while alternating the main triangle back and forth.
It also helps immensely if your vise doesn't have the ability to rotate. Mine is welded to prevent such. Unrelated pic, but you can see the weld bead on it:
-Kurt
01-19-23, 09:13 PM
#29
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@sbarner - been there done that with a 2010 Langster. Lye was the final answer. I won't try to cut it out with 8" of post in the ST.
P1030271 on Flickr
P1030273 on Flickr
P1030290 on Flickr
Only a small part of the post left.
WP_20160107_001 on Flickr
P1030271 on FlickrP1030273 on FlickrP1030290 on FlickrOnly a small part of the post left.
WP_20160107_001 on Flickr
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Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
07-28-23, 01:17 PM
#30
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Pulled the frame out to reassess. Decided to see if I could try the hammer approach.
Found an all thread longer than the post at this point. I also cut off about an inch of the post to expose the full ID without the post head insert.
Managed to put 4 washers on and thread a nut on the first time at the BB end. Then found out the washers won't get past the protruding DT sticking through the lug. Not only that but there is a fair amount of flashing on the ST to prevent the washers from entering the tube. They were too big a diameter and yet barely big enough to engage the post.
Drove a screwdriver gently down the slot for the collar and applied Kroil. to the gap and slot.
My next approach is to get a 3/4 dowl that will fit inside the tube which will be capped off with a stopper. The down is a filler for the empty space so I can soak in the ATF/Acetone mix I am going to try next.
One approach suggested is to use a pipe to engage the ST around the post. Won't work because the material is really thin to use the collar,. See post 2 picture 3.
I have to give credit to the thread on mounting Campy on a Murray and the Bianchi restoration threads for pulling this frame out.
Found an all thread longer than the post at this point. I also cut off about an inch of the post to expose the full ID without the post head insert.
Managed to put 4 washers on and thread a nut on the first time at the BB end. Then found out the washers won't get past the protruding DT sticking through the lug. Not only that but there is a fair amount of flashing on the ST to prevent the washers from entering the tube. They were too big a diameter and yet barely big enough to engage the post.
Drove a screwdriver gently down the slot for the collar and applied Kroil. to the gap and slot.
My next approach is to get a 3/4 dowl that will fit inside the tube which will be capped off with a stopper. The down is a filler for the empty space so I can soak in the ATF/Acetone mix I am going to try next.
One approach suggested is to use a pipe to engage the ST around the post. Won't work because the material is really thin to use the collar,. See post 2 picture 3.
I have to give credit to the thread on mounting Campy on a Murray and the Bianchi restoration threads for pulling this frame out.
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Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
07-28-23, 03:30 PM
#31
Senior Member
Can someone please explain to me the logic behind using a blend of ATF and Acetone? Acetone is low viscosity, volatile and flammable/explosive while ATF is a medium viscosity oil with a lot of detergents in it. I don't see either one eating away at a corrosive bond. Is there a synergy between the two when they are mixed?
03-25-24, 05:30 AM
#32
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Bikes: '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, '94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster, Tern Link D8
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Update: I did insert a dowl, which soaked up the ATF/Acetone but didn't swell enough to get stuck. The post is still stuck too.
I made up another batch and filled it. I will get back to it sometime.
The Bianchi is long done.
on Flickr
Even laced us some wheels in the meantime and found a set on BF with Superbe Pro hubs and nice MA40 rims for the Trek 760. I like to run sew-ups but also like spare clincher rims.
I made up another batch and filled it. I will get back to it sometime.
The Bianchi is long done.
Even laced us some wheels in the meantime and found a set on BF with Superbe Pro hubs and nice MA40 rims for the Trek 760. I like to run sew-ups but also like spare clincher rims.
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Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
