Recommend source of "hard" solder
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Recommend source of "hard" solder
I just used up a little coil of hard solder that lasted me 20+ years, and have no idea the brand any more. Can anybody recommend a source of such a thing, maybe an ounce of silver bearing "hard" solder and flux for soldering ferrous metals? This would be for use with a propane torch.
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A Google search for "silver solder" got a ton of hits and sources. One particular one I recognize and can vouch for is Brownells, the g-u-nnsmithing (forum censors won't let you spell out g-u-n) supply firm. Here is their link to the silver solder pages: https://www.brownells.com/items/silver-solder.aspx
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TIX solder, the hardest soft solder on earth:
Tix Solder (Pkg. of 20 Three Inch Sticks)
Search Results - Micro-Mark
Great vendor, caters to model makers but lots of generally useful small tools and supplies.
Tix Solder (Pkg. of 20 Three Inch Sticks)
Search Results - Micro-Mark
Great vendor, caters to model makers but lots of generally useful small tools and supplies.
#4
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I just used up a little coil of hard solder that lasted me 20+ years, and have no idea the brand any more. Can anybody recommend a source of such a thing, maybe an ounce of silver bearing "hard" solder and flux for soldering ferrous metals? This would be for use with a propane torch.
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Can silver solder be used on stainless spokes?
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I've used silver solder with stainless. In fact, while in grad school I soldered stainless fittings for high vacuum systems -- my biggest job was a 4 inch diameter joint using an oxygen hydrogen torch. That was fun. These days, as suggested by my post, I only use it for odd jobs.
But, will silver solder produce a joint that's strong enough to repair a broken spoke? I doubt it. I'd also wonder about the effect of the soldering temperature and atmosphere on the strength of the spoke wire.
In my experience, getting a good joint with silver solder takes some practice and an understanding of how the process works. Proud as I am of my skills, I wouldn't attempt a structural repair on a bike without getting some bike specific advice from the experts.
But, will silver solder produce a joint that's strong enough to repair a broken spoke? I doubt it. I'd also wonder about the effect of the soldering temperature and atmosphere on the strength of the spoke wire.
In my experience, getting a good joint with silver solder takes some practice and an understanding of how the process works. Proud as I am of my skills, I wouldn't attempt a structural repair on a bike without getting some bike specific advice from the experts.
#7
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I've used Harris 45% CF silver to braze stainless steel bits, but not spokes. I don't see a reason it wouldn't work. Just be aware that the 45% silver looks more "golden" than silver or stainless steel.
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Silver solder has been the most common kind since solder with lead as the primary component has been made illegal for most purposes.
You can get silver solder from any home improvement store as lead has not been allowed for use on plumbing for many years now. Lead solder is also not used for soldering most electronic circuit boards either. So you can get silver solder at most hobby stores, and electronic supply stores as well.
You can get silver solder from any home improvement store as lead has not been allowed for use on plumbing for many years now. Lead solder is also not used for soldering most electronic circuit boards either. So you can get silver solder at most hobby stores, and electronic supply stores as well.
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The stuff you can get at hardware stores is usually the 5% silver type that is just for soldering pipes, wire, etc. and has no real structural strength. If you want to join steel or stainless parts with any strength, you'll need at least 45% silver. It's not really solder, but brazing rod with silver for a lower melting temp, better flow and the ability to wet out on stainless. It can be found at most bicycle frame building suppliers. Cycle Design is one supplier Silver Brazing Wire « Cycle Design
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The stuff you can get at hardware stores is usually the 5% silver type that is just for soldering pipes, wire, etc. and has no real structural strength. If you want to join steel or stainless parts with any strength, you'll need at least 45% silver. It's not really solder, but brazing rod with silver for a lower melting temp, better flow and the ability to wet out on stainless. It can be found at most bicycle frame building suppliers. Cycle Design is one supplier Silver Brazing Wire « Cycle Design
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Highly doubtful as no solder is anywhere near as strong as the stainless steel base metal and the joint would have so little surface area (assuming a butt joint, not overlapped) that failure is almost assured.
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On silver solder,the higher the number(more silver) the stronger the braze and the less it will fill gaps.56% silver is about as good as it gets without getting too special....But you will not fill any gaps with it.
You can buy Harris at any welding shop or supply.Get the flux you need for the material your brazing.....Or go old school and mix Borax with water and make your own.
You can find some good deals on silver on the Ebay.
You can buy Harris at any welding shop or supply.Get the flux you need for the material your brazing.....Or go old school and mix Borax with water and make your own.
You can find some good deals on silver on the Ebay.
Last edited by Booger1; 01-26-15 at 03:05 PM.
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I've used silver solder with stainless. In fact, while in grad school I soldered stainless fittings for high vacuum systems -- my biggest job was a 4 inch diameter joint using an oxygen hydrogen torch. That was fun. These days, as suggested by my post, I only use it for odd jobs.
But, will silver solder produce a joint that's strong enough to repair a broken spoke? I doubt it. I'd also wonder about the effect of the soldering temperature and atmosphere on the strength of the spoke wire.
In my experience, getting a good joint with silver solder takes some practice and an understanding of how the process works. Proud as I am of my skills, I wouldn't attempt a structural repair on a bike without getting some bike specific advice from the experts.
But, will silver solder produce a joint that's strong enough to repair a broken spoke? I doubt it. I'd also wonder about the effect of the soldering temperature and atmosphere on the strength of the spoke wire.
In my experience, getting a good joint with silver solder takes some practice and an understanding of how the process works. Proud as I am of my skills, I wouldn't attempt a structural repair on a bike without getting some bike specific advice from the experts.
Thanks for the answers.
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Here is Sheldon Brown's reprint of a Jobst Brandt experiment to see if tying and soldering improved wheel rigidity: https://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/tied-soldered.html
Last edited by HillRider; 01-26-15 at 07:32 PM.
#15
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Harris sell a 56% silver filler as well. It's pretty silver colored. It costs more, of course, since it's got more silver in it, but it's also easier to work with. If an ounce is going to last the OP 20 years, it's probably worth it.
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Thanks for all of the tips. Like @dscheidt says, my anticipated use is minimal, but I have to keep some around for the odd job, and don't mind paying for good stuff.
The previous roll surely paid for itself many times over.
The previous roll surely paid for itself many times over.
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OK, good to know. BTW, tying and soldering spoke crossings is an old fashion, ineffective and discredited method that was claimed to make the wheel stronger. It didn't. The only advantage to the technique was that a broken spoke wouldn't be able to flop around and get into the derailleur or fork blades as easily. Maybe worth the trouble if you break a lot of spokes.
Here is Sheldon Brown's reprint of a Jobst Brandt experiment to see if tying and soldering improved wheel rigidity: Tied and Soldered Wheels by Jobst Brandt
Here is Sheldon Brown's reprint of a Jobst Brandt experiment to see if tying and soldering improved wheel rigidity: Tied and Soldered Wheels by Jobst Brandt
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A Google search for "silver solder" got a ton of hits and sources. One particular one I recognize and can vouch for is Brownells, the g-u-nnsmithing (forum censors won't let you spell out g-u-n) supply firm. Here is their link to the silver solder pages: https://www.brownells.com/items/silver-solder.aspx
#19
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Jewelers particularly art Metalwork uses the 'hard-medium-Easy Silver solders a lot , to solder 1 piece together with hard,
then attach it to the rest of the larger piece with something with an Easier.. ie lower melting point..
so 2nd joint wont melt 1st solder making the 1st one come un-soldered
So reading the melting point Data is where you can judge how a particular silver solder can be used in such sequential assemblies .
then attach it to the rest of the larger piece with something with an Easier.. ie lower melting point..
so 2nd joint wont melt 1st solder making the 1st one come un-soldered
So reading the melting point Data is where you can judge how a particular silver solder can be used in such sequential assemblies .
Last edited by fietsbob; 01-27-15 at 09:10 AM.
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Quick question...
Most solder from a hardware or plumbing store is acid core whereas electronic solder is rosin core.
Does it matter which kind to solder cable ends and whatnot?
Most solder from a hardware or plumbing store is acid core whereas electronic solder is rosin core.
Does it matter which kind to solder cable ends and whatnot?
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#24
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Stick with Harris products. Stay-Brite solder and Stay-Clean liquid flux with Tie-an-Solder spokes. This is all about cleanliness and enough heat.