cbike

I was looking forward to the ride home through the fresh snow we would be getting but on my commute to work this morning the freehub started to slip. At first just occasionally till it finally wouldn't grab at all. I scootered and walked the last little bit to work and missed out on riding through the snow as the bike and I got a ride home by car.


(what I missed riding in )

Tonight I went ahead and pulled the freehub. The hub didn't had a rubber seal to the bearings so I wasn't able to do much besides trying to wash it out with mineral spirit and lube it with a mineral spirit and oil mixture. Then I assembled everything and put the bike outside overnight to see if the pawls freeze or if the bike will be ok for the ride tomorrow.

Anyway, I think it's time for some major service on some parts of my bike and I was wondering how to go about to select the correct parts. Recently I changed the chain, which was way more than overdue, even the 1% side of the bicycle chain wear indicator tool fell into place. Tonight service I got to see the cassette close up and noticed that some teeth have a crater, nose or whatever you call it sticking out that is caused by wear. So it's obvious that the cassette should be changed. I assume the chain rings as well although I haven't looked at it as closely. Since I probably did a miserable job lubing up the freehub, it wouldn't be bad to change that as well. The difficulty I have is to determine what parts I need.

Cassette: 7 gears (11, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24, 28 teeth) it's a Shimano CS-HG30. I guess it would be this item: Shimano Cassette CS-HG 30-7 - Walmart.com Would the Shimano CS-HG41 Hyperglide Cassette (11-28T 7 Speed) also work and what's the difference? Amazon.com : Shimano CS-HG41 Speed Cassette : Bike Cassettes And Freewheels : Sports & Outdoors

Freehub: My freehub body didn't had any markings. Is it that one? Amazon.com : Shimano STX-RC and Acera-X 7-Speed Freehub Body : Bike Cassettes And Freewheels : Sports & Outdoors

Chainrings: Shimano 42-32-22 tooth. Is it possible to just buy the chain rings or do I need to buy the full crank set? If so, how are the proper ones choosen or do all work as long as it has the right number of teeths?

The bike is a 1999 GT Outpost with lots of memorable rides. I'm still using it nearly daily to commute (3.7 miles) one way and would like to continue using the bike for commuting.

I found a pamphlet for my bike titled "Rear Drive System" and " "fron Drive System" with the following:
- Cassette sproket CS-HG30-I
-- gears 7
-- group name ac
-- Tooth combination 11-13-15-18-21-24-28T
- Freehub
-- model number FH-M330 / FH-R050
-- gears 7
-- no. of spoke holes 36/32
- Front chainwheel FC-M330
-- chainwheel tooth combination 42T-32T-22T
-- bolt cicle diameter 61mm
--crank arm length 170mm, 175mm
-- pedal thread dimensions BC 9/16" x 20 T.P.I

jimc101

Cassette - your just doing a straight swap, as long as you have the tools, it will fit. For the 2 you have listed, the difference looks to be about $3 and a nicer finish for the HG-41

Freehub - this is difficult, you need to match the freehub to your wheel/freehub, generally between manufactures, few to none are compatible, and even within manufacture lines, there will be incompatibly, you really need to do like for like. Would be looking to goto a LBS to get the correct part ordered, as/if (can you verify) your hub has no marking on it (a Shimano hub should have the model number on a sticker on the center barrel of the hub to verify exactly what you have.

Chainrings - on your crank, they are riveted, so no chance of replacing them individually, you would need to replace the crank as a single unit., you would need to look for a square taper 42T-32T-22T crank, which could be say a Shimano Acera M361

frankenmike 

So funny, I just did the exact same thing on my 92 hardrock commuter. The hub started slipping on a really cold day. I figured the pawls were gummed up with old frozen grease, but after soaking in solvent for a week or so, metal shards started to come out the edges so I deemed it a lost cause. The free hub is specific to the actual hub, just search for the hub model number free hub replacement and the correct number of speeds. The old free hub also gives you a visual clue if the new free hub will interface properly.

Tim_Iowa

Freehub: The 7-speed STX-RC and ACERA-X freehub body you linked should fit most Shimano 7-speed cassette hubs; lots of folks have reported success with that freehub on 90s Shimano hubs.

Cassette: All 7-speed Shimano Hyperglide cassettes are interchangeable. Get the one with the cog sizes you want. 11-28 gives good gearing with your MTB crank; you probably don't need any lower gearing (that a larger cassette would give you).

Chainrings: Chainrings usually last thousands of miles. They tend to last through multiple cassette and chain changes. Ergo, yours are probably ok for another 3-5000 (how long a chain and cassette normally last). Google search chainring worn teeth and compare to your chainrings to be sure. Some folks wear out the one ring they use most, especially if it's a middle or small ring.


I recently turned an '89 GT Avalanche into a commuter for my ex (it was too small for me and none of my kids wanted it). New cables, cassette, and chain (freehub was fine, so far). I put on cruiser style swept handlebars (Wald 896), slick tires (Schwalbe Big Apples) and a rear rack, and she loves that bike.

cbike

Thanks for all the great feedback. I did ride the bike to work and the freehub didn't give me any problems. Of course with 11 degrees Fahrenheit it was 6 degrees warmer than yesterday.

I did go ahead and ordered the cassette and freehub. Still a little hesitant with the crank set. I never removed them so I'm not sure how difficult that is. I also should take your recommendations and inspect the teeth to see what shape they are in. Maybe I can skip replacing that for now.

Tim, slicks suck this time of year. You should have installed the Schwalbe Ice Spiker for her. I did get some 24" studded tires for my son to ride his bike to middle school. Yes, I'm crazy ... no he hasn't killed me yet.

Tim_Iowa

Oh, I didn't mean to intend that I built the GT as a winter bike. She's a wuss and hasn't ridden it since it went below 60 degrees outside. But, she got a lot of use out of it this summer. She rides it a couple miles to where she meets her vanpool to work at the UI hospitals, for a stress-free, car-free commute.

I do ride during the winter, and I'll bet my studded Dillinger 5's can take me places even Ice Spiker pros will spin out on. Those Schwalbes do look like excellent tires for a non-fat bike.

Where do you live in IA?

cbike

Not to long ago 2" was the common "fat" tire. Got my studded tires used from a guy that was upgrading to a fat tire bike. I'm not sure why, the snow removal isn't that bad here in Ames that 5" tires are needed.

Tim_Iowa

Yeah, the 5" tires aren't necessary for commuting, but they're pretty unstoppable and I can huck my bike over plowed snow berms pretty easily.
The Dillinger tires have pretty light casings (like the Ice Spiker Pros), so they actually roll pretty well. They seem to have only slightly more rolling resistance than my stock Ground Control 4.6 tires (which are relatively fast for fat tires).
I went whole hog with the fat bike with studded tires, but I'm very very happy with it. I've extended my riding to year-round, and the fat bike (without the studs) makes a great singletrack bike for me as well. I haven't ridden my previous MTB (26er headshock Cannondale) since I bought the fatty.

I put my first spiked tires, Nokian Mount & Ground W160, on my girlfriend's gravel/dirt bike (a rigid Univega MTB, now with drop bars) for the winter. Those tires are sure-footed, but heavy and slow (compared to the Super Motos it wears the rest of the year). Considering she may ride that bike twice this winter, they're ok.

cbike

I replaced the cassette but not the freehub since the freehub is performing wonderful after cleaning it with mineral spirit and oiling it. I'm surprised about that, since I couldn't get to the bearings well to properly grease them.

I did determine that the middle chaining is worn and causes occasional skipping of the chain when applying significant power. I got the Shimano Acera M361 since I didn't find anything better and that crank set is a near perfect fit except for the fact that the square taper is not flush with the small 22 chain ring like on the original SR Suntour XR27. Instead it's recessed to nearly the middle 32 chain ring. This causes the small chain ring to touch the frame of the bike when mounted. That sucks majorly since it's hard to tell online if the square taper is flush.

Bill Kapaun

You obviously need a longer BB. Typical when changing a crank.

Narhay

Research suggests a 122.5mm bottom bracket.

cbike

That sucks. I wonder how hard it is to replace the BB and how easy it is to get the correct one for my bike.
I'd really like to do it myself but am afraid I'll end up buying the incorrect parts.

Velocivixen

A good bottom bracket for square taper spindles is the Shimano UN-55. Measure the width of your bottom bracket shell. It will be either 68 or 73. As someone else mentioned 122.5 should work, so get 68 X 122.5 or 73 X 122.5. These are very common and cost around $20 depending on where you get it from.

Bill Kapaun

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BB-UN2.../dp/B007FP6NB8

Here's an example.
According to Shimano tech docs-
The FC-M361 calls for 123mm. (122.5 is fine)
The FC-M361-8 calls for 126mm. ( you'd probably have to use 127)

Just to clarify my earlier post-
I said a longer BB. I should have said a different length BB instead.
MB's from the late 80's to ?90's tended to use longer BB's in the 122-127mm range,
Newer ones tend to be shorter and in the 113mm range.

In any case, you have to use what the crank calls for.

This link shows your old BB is either 110 or 113mm.
https://www.moruyabicycles.com.au/con..._Crankset.html