Squealing Brakes
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Squealing Brakes
I have a '73 Schwinn Voyageur 11.8. I put on some new brake shoes on it and the brakes just squeal like nothing else! I've tried everything make it stop and nothing works. To date, I've retoe the brakes several times and even bought new brake pads, nothing works. Right now it has on Kool Stop brakes but the noise wouldn't go away. Any ideas on what to do next?
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What kind of brakes does it have? side-pull or center-pull calipers? Both systems benefit from disassembly and a good cleaning and lube.
With side-pulls, try tightening up the pivot bolt to the point just where it binds then back off the nut just enough to let the caliper move.
Center-pull calipers are notorious for squealing but when they work, they really stop. You can first try tightening up the pivots paying attention to the arms and noticing if they rock at all. If so, the bushings should be replaced. Unfortunately, it's easier to buy a whole brake than it is to find little nylon bits like these. A final thing you can do is to make a brake booster which locks together the pivot bolts and prevents them from oscillating.
Try cleaning the rims with some mild steel wool and remove any dust with a moist rag. Does your bike have steel or aluminum rims?
You could always just view your brakes as a horn to let people know you're coming!
With side-pulls, try tightening up the pivot bolt to the point just where it binds then back off the nut just enough to let the caliper move.
Center-pull calipers are notorious for squealing but when they work, they really stop. You can first try tightening up the pivots paying attention to the arms and noticing if they rock at all. If so, the bushings should be replaced. Unfortunately, it's easier to buy a whole brake than it is to find little nylon bits like these. A final thing you can do is to make a brake booster which locks together the pivot bolts and prevents them from oscillating.
Try cleaning the rims with some mild steel wool and remove any dust with a moist rag. Does your bike have steel or aluminum rims?
You could always just view your brakes as a horn to let people know you're coming!
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Yes, I've sanded the rims too. Sorry for the misspelling of some words. You get up at 3:30 A.M. and see how well you spell. (The Cats made me do it. ) BTW, they are side pulls.
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So the cats' squealing awoke you. And once awake, they took a break from squealing.
1973 sidepulls. How did you set the toe-in? When those brakes were made, the brake pads with the fancy washers you rotate to set the toe-in didn't exist. Mechanics reached into their toolbox and pulled out the toe-in adjustment tool that conveniently was made to handle both metric and English. The Crescent wrench. (Back when Crescent was capitalized and the wrenches made by Crescent.) Fit the wrench over the ends of the calipers after removing the pads and twist hard enough to get the proper toe-in.
Fast forward to 2023. You have just broken every rule in the book and all warranties ever written. This is a sin for which you will never be forgiven. Fortunately the mechanics who did this on a daily basis are fast dying off. Soon all memories of these atrocities will be buried forever. (If you happen on a pair of those old brakes that doesn't squeak - beware - its been touch by that cursed tool. Now, if you hadn't read this post you could ride those calipers forever in bliss but who would want that?)
1973 sidepulls. How did you set the toe-in? When those brakes were made, the brake pads with the fancy washers you rotate to set the toe-in didn't exist. Mechanics reached into their toolbox and pulled out the toe-in adjustment tool that conveniently was made to handle both metric and English. The Crescent wrench. (Back when Crescent was capitalized and the wrenches made by Crescent.) Fit the wrench over the ends of the calipers after removing the pads and twist hard enough to get the proper toe-in.
Fast forward to 2023. You have just broken every rule in the book and all warranties ever written. This is a sin for which you will never be forgiven. Fortunately the mechanics who did this on a daily basis are fast dying off. Soon all memories of these atrocities will be buried forever. (If you happen on a pair of those old brakes that doesn't squeak - beware - its been touch by that cursed tool. Now, if you hadn't read this post you could ride those calipers forever in bliss but who would want that?)
Last edited by 79pmooney; 07-24-23 at 10:25 AM. Reason: typo
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The brakes are all original, as far as I know. As for the Cats, their bad...and they know it. LOL If they were worked on it before I bought the bike, I don't know. It is a Barn Find and hopeful with help of this list it will be ok.
Last edited by Colorado Kid; 07-24-23 at 11:42 AM.
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We know what a Cresent wrench is.....ask for the Cresent wrench and you will get the right one. Ask for an adjustable wrench.... and you will get the look... Channel-loc? pipe-wrench?.... what you talking about.......?
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and when you sanded the rim, what grit and type of sandpaper was used?
and if your bike doesn't look like this one, it's not a 1973, and the '73 came equipped with center pull brakes...
https://bikeindex.org/bikes/88207
what is the brand/model of your side pull brakes?
I apologize for the spelling commenters... Bored old men in search of cheap thrills will say dumb things and be mean, then complain about the lack of results.
PS.. the cats promise they'll quit waking you up at 3:30am if you quit using them as scape-goats.(cats lie a LOT!)
Last edited by maddog34; 07-24-23 at 12:54 PM.
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New brake shoes are like new chalk on a blackboard. Both squeal annoyingly for the same reason. In time, normal wear solves the problem.
For those lacking patience, speed the process using a rasp or coarse file to break the rear corners of both shoes.
People will advise using more toe in, but it's too easy to get carried away and end up with spongy brakes. Normal wear will always establish the optimal toe in matched to brake arm flex and contact friction, so I prefer to use minimal initial toe-in, and let the brake do its thing.
For those lacking patience, speed the process using a rasp or coarse file to break the rear corners of both shoes.
People will advise using more toe in, but it's too easy to get carried away and end up with spongy brakes. Normal wear will always establish the optimal toe in matched to brake arm flex and contact friction, so I prefer to use minimal initial toe-in, and let the brake do its thing.
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An anti-squeal solution I learned here that works rather well - rub the rims with garden dirt, preferably dirt with little sand, clay or grit. Doesn't last forever but the squeal won't be as big when it comes back.
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I used a "toe in" adjustment tool today on a pos front brake caliper...the tool works as it always has and will be used for years to come until the last of the flat pad calipers are gone...I doubt I'll see that day as I'm 67.
PS: The proper tool works far better than the adjustable wrench.
PS: The proper tool works far better than the adjustable wrench.
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I used a "toe in" adjustment tool today on a pos front brake caliper...the tool works as it always has and will be used for years to come until the last of the flat pad calipers are gone...I doubt I'll see that day as I'm 67.
PS: The proper tool works far better than the adjustable wrench.
PS: The proper tool works far better than the adjustable wrench.
I've used the adjustable spanner method on Weinmann 500s successfully, but the only "toe in tool" I can see online seems to measure the angle for brakes with shims or similar.
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It’s designed for the job and fits better. No “extra” metal like on the jaws of an adjustable wrench. It’s also stiffer since there aren’t any moving parts.
An adjustable will work; but as I frequently mention, the proper tool will make the job easier.
An adjustable will work; but as I frequently mention, the proper tool will make the job easier.
Last edited by smd4; 07-25-23 at 05:34 AM.
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Found it now: Park Tool BT3, no longer in production but available on Ebay etc.
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