Wheel bolt problems
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Wheel bolt problems
The bolt keeping the wheel with the frame won't come out no matter what even after using WD-40 .How can I take it off?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Eastern Poland
Posts: 744
Bikes: Romet Jubilat x 4, Wigry x 1, Turing x 1
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 194 Post(s)
Liked 204 Times
in
151 Posts
I cannot think of any bike that uses a bolt to keep the wheel in the frame, they tend to have axles instead - and there are several very different types.
What bike do you have, and what does your 'bolt' look like? Is there a nut at each end, a lever at one end, etc.
What bike do you have, and what does your 'bolt' look like? Is there a nut at each end, a lever at one end, etc.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,095
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4210 Post(s)
Liked 3,875 Times
in
2,315 Posts
While there are a few hubs that do use bolts to secure the wheels most all have either axle nuts or QR skewers. These more common methods have real reasons why they might not work properly. But the reasons are generally different and thus our advice for either will be different. Do you know which you have? If you have axle nuts do you have the proper sized wrenches?
By far the best way to figure this stuff out (the method of wheel holding and the problems that method might be suffering from) is by having someone with experience take a look at your bike. Do you have a LBS near you? We have customers who ask about their bikes but don't have then serviced by us all the time. As long as we only spend a few minutes talking about the problems we don't charge $ for our advice. Andy
By far the best way to figure this stuff out (the method of wheel holding and the problems that method might be suffering from) is by having someone with experience take a look at your bike. Do you have a LBS near you? We have customers who ask about their bikes but don't have then serviced by us all the time. As long as we only spend a few minutes talking about the problems we don't charge $ for our advice. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
Likes For Andrew R Stewart:
#4
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
So sorry, but it seems I misspoke of the Bolt. It is actually a Nut. This is a common bike. But it doesn't use or have levers for quick release.
#5
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,516
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2747 Post(s)
Liked 3,401 Times
in
2,058 Posts
Bigger wrench or socket
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,095
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4210 Post(s)
Liked 3,875 Times
in
2,315 Posts
Ideally the material the nuts are made from is softer then that of the axle so the nuts will strip out or suffer damage before the axle will. In practice this is not an absolute. There are methods to remove nuts from axles when they are buggered up. Often these methods don't save the axle or nuts and replacements after removal is to be expected. Exactly what is/isn't happening? You turn the nut with a wrench and it just spins on the axle with no backing off from the drop out? You can't get the nut to spin at all? What tools have you used? Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#8
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
For those that wanted to know the model,
It's a "Schwinn Sidewinder Mountain Bike", 26-inch wheels
And with that, the Problem with the Axle nut is that whenever I try to turn it, It does not move at all in any way.
The tools I've been using are just a 15mm wrench, and some WD-40. Both nuts on the rear wheel have failed to turn despite the WD-40 or Me turning it
It's a "Schwinn Sidewinder Mountain Bike", 26-inch wheels
And with that, the Problem with the Axle nut is that whenever I try to turn it, It does not move at all in any way.
The tools I've been using are just a 15mm wrench, and some WD-40. Both nuts on the rear wheel have failed to turn despite the WD-40 or Me turning it
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,837
Bikes: 2012 Specialized Elite Disc, 1983 Trek 520
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 676 Post(s)
Liked 741 Times
in
430 Posts
WD-40 is not a very effective penetrant. Try some real penetrating oil.
Without seeing your wrenching technique or knowing your experience it's hard to give advice. Sometimes it's as simple as correct wrench placement with respect to the bike frame and getting maximum leverage. And using the larger muscles in the upper arms and shoulders rather than the wrists. I've coached a few budding mechanics at a co-op when they can't spin a stubborn nut with a simple twist of the wrist.
If you start applying heavy torque, be careful about hands and knuckles. As mentioned above, these are soft nuts. Wrenches will slip, and you don't want to drive your hand into a set of gear teeth, or pinch it between the wrench and frame.
Without seeing your wrenching technique or knowing your experience it's hard to give advice. Sometimes it's as simple as correct wrench placement with respect to the bike frame and getting maximum leverage. And using the larger muscles in the upper arms and shoulders rather than the wrists. I've coached a few budding mechanics at a co-op when they can't spin a stubborn nut with a simple twist of the wrist.
If you start applying heavy torque, be careful about hands and knuckles. As mentioned above, these are soft nuts. Wrenches will slip, and you don't want to drive your hand into a set of gear teeth, or pinch it between the wrench and frame.
#11
Senior Member
Get two wrenches that fit the axle nuts on the outside of the frame. Stand behind the bike and place the wrenches on the nuts with the handles pointing to the rear. Push the wrench on the right side down while pulling up on the one on the left side. USUALLY, this will loosen both nuts and allow for wheel removal. SOMETIMES, the outermost cone nut (just inside the frame) might need to be held while the outer nut is pushed or pulled as described above. As mentioned, something better than WD40 should be used as a penetrating oil.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Eastern Poland
Posts: 744
Bikes: Romet Jubilat x 4, Wigry x 1, Turing x 1
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 194 Post(s)
Liked 204 Times
in
151 Posts
Well, it looks like a standard axle. How long is your wrench? Some are quite short, and if they are you can look for a piece of steel tube that fits over it that will all you to apply more torque. Sometimes people do up those nuts like they were a gorilla, and then it can take a lot of effort to get them loose.