Roadies_Rok

Well the Arenberg adventure is moving along quite well. I got a new saddle (Specialized Riva 143mm) and put it on the bike and as expected my saddle issues are now gone. I also pulled the Keo Blade pedals off and replaced them with quill pedals and went out for a short 10 mile ride so I could Zen out and become one with my bike on an otherly Astral plane. When I got back I looked out and thought to myself "self, all is right and good with the world".

I now want to replace the shifter cables and I want to make sure I get the right ones for my Campy Centaur 10-speed so as not to mess things up. I read here that the Jagwire cables with the duel end work well with Campy 10-speed, all I have to do is cut off the end I don't need and I have also heard that the Jagwire shifter housing works well with the Campy 10-speed shifters. The one thing I am not sure about is I had seen a post here and I looked and could not find it again. The person who made the post was complaining of poor shifting after changing out the shifter cables and it turned out that the cables he used were "coated" and I am guessing that the coating was to reduce friction and the coating had flaked off inside the shifter and was gumming up the internals. Are the Jagwire shifter cables coated or are they OK for me to use/ Thanks all.

Miele Man

My advice is to get cables with only ONE end. Cutting off a cable end makes threading the cable through the shifter and housing possible much harder or impossible if the cut off end of the cable frays whilst being inserted into the shifter or housing.

Cheers

dsbrantjr

Twist welding is one answer:

Litespud

you can get jagwire cable sets specifically for Campag - I’ve used jagwires on my Chorus 10 setup for years - no problems

sch

FWIW the Campy cables that came with a Veloce 10spd brifter set a few years back had twist welded ends from the factory.
Makes threading them a piece of cake. Of course once installed you end up cutting off that really nice end.
The coated cables do tend to have flake off over time (a few years), and IME housing with slippery liners
can become even more problematic. I remember one disassembly about 10 yrs ago where the cable
would not come out of the housing til extreme force was applied, when it did come out, a bunch of crumpled
up housing liner turned out the be the problem, it came out on the cable.

Roadies_Rok

dsbrantjr Yes, the Twist Welding is interesting and I watched the video. It reminds me of what I and a lot of other riders I knew used to do back in the day which was solder the ends of the cables after they were cut. All you need is rosin core solder which can be bought at Target, Walmart, or any hardware store of auto parts store and a medium heat soldering iron of approx 100 to 150 watts.

Soldering the cable ends gives a cleaner, more professional look; the sign of an Artisan and if they ever had to be dis-assembled you didn't lose an entire cable which happens a lot when the cable ends are crimped with the aluminum caps.

Thanks for sharing.

Crankycrank

Unfortunately most riders use Stainless Steel cables now which require silver solder and special flux and is more difficult to get a good smooth end. I've been doing the twist welding for awhile as well and find it works very well, no cable ends, superglue, heatshrink tubing, etc. needed. A PITA to do but only needs to be done once until you need to replace the cable.