carleton

I just measured some 170mm DA FC-7710 and it's 19mm right there.

bungis

Yeah that looks about right, thanks. Maybe they'll narrow the power meter before release.

edit: Although I noticed Stages overhangs on this crank too, maybe that'll be ok.

Quinn8it

Mine look like they are closer to 27-28mm

and the Stages is the same width at the widest point.

carleton

Did you measure just the flat part, not outside-to-outside?

Quinn8it

Ahhh- Yes! that explains it

Hida Yanra

Random questions for those who monitor this thread:

How long should I hold on to my track gear after I think I'm done racing?

background: I had a good year last year, but 2014 I ended up not training or riding or racing other than teaching beginner's clinics.
At this point, I don't anticipate racing next year, and I've already sold off my various race wheels & SRM...

So, what I've got left is a 46-54t track bag of DA rings, a Giant Omnium w/ DA/OP clinchers... most of what I need, but stuff that is always available used were I to want to start again.
I mean, DA rings aren't losing or gaining value, a sturdy track frame isn't gaining or losing... there's not much here that I can't get again were I to start racing in a few years.

Thoughts?
I live in a small apartment w/ the wife+cat+dog, so space is sorta at a premium, and the $$ wouldn't be terrible to have.

Shotland

you should keep it. store it at your parents house if you have to.

carleton

+1

Keep it. Track Cycling is a life-long activity. If you don't absolutely *need* the money, then it's worth it to keep the gear because it doesn't depreciate in usefulness. I know guys who race gear that is 30 years old.

Brian Ratliff

I think once you're married, your parents don't accept donations to their basement anymore . But yes, keep it. Break it down to a frameset and you can store it easier. Also, it's a hell of a lot easier to restart if you already have a bike you can put together. Less expensive too.

gl98115

My track bike hung on the wall as art for 18 years until I got motivated to race again. Having the gear on hand made the decision to ride easier.

Unless your bike is a 54cm. Then you should sell the lot to me for $500. I'm one of those guys riding 30 yr old gear.

Hida Yanra

mmmm, yeah- easier to re-start if I have the bits, it would be more likely to help me get out there were I to have the bits already.

If I stay in a place w/ a track, I probably will keep it for at least another year.
If I do end up moving to Bend this winter, PDX is too far away to bother with, so I'll be selling to fund a better mtb

Quinn8it

carleton and Mukman have a couple of cool iOS apps for different cycling needs...

i was wondering if there was an app or other resource out there that allows you to record your bike fit data.

it would be great to have that stuff in a handy place- but would be even cooler if the app could give you equipment adjustments to adapt to different frames..
ie: your new frame has a longer top-tube, a shorter head tube, and a slacker seat tube angle- so you need a stem that is "this length and this angle"

yes i realize now that i type this out I'm basically asking someone to make this app

carleton

This is a great idea. I think Mr. Tiemeyer had something similar that he used in his work. But, he is an Aeronautical Engineer and really good at math (to say the least). My brain is getting hot thinking about how to implement such. Let me think about this and see what I can do. I need a bigger project.

Quinn8it

One thing that Tiemeyer used, that I believe is also used by Retul is the XY/XY coordinates.

the center of your bar clamp on the stem was one- with X- being the distance forward of the bottom bracket and Y the distance above the bottom bracket.

and the second set was center of the saddle rails. Also vertically and horizontally..

Hida Yanra

speaking of which: Slowtwitch has done a series on various new fit machines (largely boring other than to shop guys and fit nerds -so basically me), and then an article on "Bike Discovery", a program from Guru paired with Retul's "Frame Finder" and they seem to do pretty much what we are talking about.

Murakami

There was a video posted (I think it was on this forum anyway) of a race which mixed Points and Elimination, think it had the word "wolf" somewhere in it? Anyone know where I might find it?

Hida Yanra

are you talking about the Wolfpack races they do in Los Angeles?

gl98115

I moved this over from the Show Off thread:

I popped out of a Look Carbo Pro in a standing start, so I switched to the original Look style Dura Ace pedals (PD-7401) with adjustable tension. Cranked them down to the max and never had a problem. Still ride them today.

gl98115

I moved this over from the Show Off thread:

In this case the tubular peeled off completely and the rim did contact the track surface. He must be a track god.

gtrob

Ive had the same problem, I think the carbon pedals come in different tensions now and I guess I had whatever the middle was (i think it was yellow). Anyway, I use the cheaper spring clip pedals now as like you say the have adjustment and they hold much better. BUT if you have worn cleats, you can easily pull out too. Always keep a spare cleat in my bag after one day of getting yelled at by coach...

Murakami

I'm an idiot. Had video as a favourite:

Wolfpack Hustle: The All Out War Format on Vimeo

Brian Ratliff

Not sure your point, since it is a small miracle he didn't crash. Dude did a good job a keeping it upright. Like I said, same thing happened to me and I ended my day at the ER. One instance does not a argument make.

Not sure why people are arguing this point. It is more dangerous to flat on the track than the road, and in the case of a flat, you have a better chance of staying upright if you use tubulars over clinchers. How is this controversial? The flip side is, because there is nothing to pinch or puncture the tire, flats happen only rarely, so you have that going for you if you want to use clinchers.

gtrob

Flat or not, I cant stand the feel of clinchers anymore. Ive been ridding all year on my road race wheels (the benefit of low mileage) which are 22m tubs at 140psi. Yesterday I threw my power tap on the rear to make sure it still worked and stopped 3 times because I thought I had a flat. Nope, just what 110psi clincher feels like lol

Track is the same, I feel so much more in control with a billion PSI under me. Dont let the fear/annoyance of glue stop you from using tubulars. Just close the windows, turn on some pink floyd, and have a glue party on a Friday night. woooo weeee

carleton

Try "open tubular" clincher tires on your clincher rims. They cost more than normal clinchers, but they feel like tubulars and usually accept very high PSI.

slindell

Marymoor tried a point a lap + miss and out a couple of years ago. Something about a 35mph neutral lap at the start and the scoring complexities led to it being requested to not be run again by the racers and the officials.