tempocyclist

Necessary? Definitely not. I have two bikes on tubes, two on tubeless. Tyre sizes all around 25mm. I think it's worth it if you ride puncture-prone roads.

I recently converted my TT bike and one of my road bikes to tubeless. Honestly I notice zero difference in ride quality or handling. Apparently I can run lower pressure, but I don't (tubed and tubeless both 80psi). You know what else I didn't notice? The puncture I got 65km into a 110km ride. Well, not until I saw some sealant spray on my rear light at the cafe. The puncture sealed quickly and efficiently with minimal pressure drop.

I'll need a few more long rides before I'm truly sold on tubeless, but it's looking good so far!

vvv667

Thks for those insides. They don't inflate at all, the tyre is not" connecting" to the rim at all if no tube. I'll get some tubes meanwhile while will drop a note to the vendor and to Rene Herse.
V.

vvv667

This for your insides. They don't inflate at all and effectively the bead is not adhering to the rim if no tube. The tyre flank ppears much too soft.
The vendor data sheet did mention that they are "now" tubeless ready.
I might have got an older version that was not.....will reach out the seller/importer and get some tubes meanwhile.......thks. V.

base2 

Rene Hearse tires are notoriously loose fitting. As are Panaracer & other tires manufactured at the same factory.

Since you can't make the tire smaller, make the rim bigger. What I have done in the case of exceedingly loose rim/tire fit resulting in initial inflation difficulties is fit 2 layers of skinny Velox rim tape to the well area between the bead shelfs (excepting the area adjacent to the valve hole, of course.) Then 2 layers of tubeless tape as normal.

ThermionicScott 

How are you installing them? Supple tires like these often need a quick blast of air to seat the beads. A floor pump probably won't do it.

vespasianus

If you like the ride of your current set up and you are not having any issues, not sure it is worth the hassle to change.

vvv667

actually after a new try it did work, needed though to have them mounted with an inner tube first and remove the inner tube for them to inflate with the air booster....all good, thks

TMonk

There is an inverse relationship between tire pressure and the ROI on tubeless tire setups. For me:

MTB - tubeless all the way (duh)
Road - tubed with latex. Don't really get many flats TBH and I ride plenty.
Track - tubular

I'm not (yet) on the gravel bandwagon, but that certainly presents an interesting middle ground. I think the increased likelihood of cuts and gashes (vs road) for me would mean tubeless wins. Lower pressure too. For road? I don't really get the point. Plus the two setups I've tried just pissed me off. MTB, I've done it all at home with a floor pump, every rim and tire combo has worked for me. Although I'm generally a Maxxis guy for MTB, only tried a couple of other makes.

tFUnK

I am in a similar situation as OP in that I've got tubeless on my gravel bike and am riding tpu tubes on my road bikes, and curious between the two for road applications. I'm in agreement with chaadster in that I think it depends on the tires as well. I've got high threadcount open tubular clinchers and I will stick with tpu tubes for now.

IcySwan1 

Changed a CF endurance and CF road bike to tubeless, one disc and one rim brake. Very pleased. I have an aluminum endurance bike, disc, that I use with tubes. Just put new Conti GP 5000s on it. And I am happy with that. Also a steel Torelli that will only ever have tubed tires.

Overall I like the tubeless tires but am also well served by tubes. I doubt you can go wrong with either system in 2022

Mike

DaveSSS 

The biggest improvement for me comes from using 23-25mm internal width hookless rims and 28-30mm tires that I can run at 52/56 psi. My 19mm IW hooked rims require 10 psi more pressure. There's a lot more to it than just flat protection.

Hiro11

Yet another tubeless thread, yet another discussion with the exact same conclusions. And yet I'm compelled to answer. I have currently have seven bikes, three of which are road bikes, and all are set up tubeless.

Ten opinions. These are NOT facts despite declarative sentence structure. Your mileage may vary:
1. Don't try to run tubeless unless everything you have is designed specifically for tubeless: rims, tires, tape etc. Trying to bodge something together never works quite right.
2. There is generally an inverse relationship between how hard a tire is to get onto a rim and how easy it will be to get the beads to seat. A tire that you have to sweat to get on the rim will generally snap right on the beads easily with a floor pump, a floppy tire that just falls on the rim will be a pain in the ass to get inflated.
3. I have two road bikes with tubeless 28s that both work very well. I'm not sure where the "no tubeless below 35mm" statement above comes from.
4. Rene Herse plays it a little coy with whether or not their tires can actually be run tubeless. They say "most" of their tires are "tubeless compatible". They make great tires, but this wishy-washyness irritates me and makes me not trust them tubeless. If you want to run tubeless, buy from a brand that is a little more clear.
5. A cheap compressor with a cheap presta inflator is way better than one of those tubeless floor pumps. Pull the valve cores, soap the bead and you'll been able to easily mount any tire.
6. Dynaplugs and a mini pump are the best solution for a tubeless puncture. Dynaplugs work perfectly and I've ridden tires for a hundreds of miles that have been Dynaplugged. Keep the Dynaplug in your jersey pocket for quick access, don't store it away in a bag.
7. I have lots of tubeless wheels, both hookless and hooked designs. I generally like to stick with hooked designs just for ease of tire compatibility, but both work fine.
8. To me, the biggest benefit of tubeless is being able to run lower pressures without fear of pinch-flatting. Lower pressures = more comfort and more grip without increasing rolling resistance. I weigh about 160 and I run tubeless 28s at about 68 psi for performance road and 65 for endurance road. Tubeless GP5KS TR 28s at 68 for a fast ride = chef's kiss for me. I run 32s on my cross race bike at ~35-40 when I ride it on the road. I run the 40s on my gravel bike at between 28 and 32.
9. You need to refill sealant every few months. I just pull the valve cores and inject some when I can't hear any sloshing around in the tires. I have never had an issue with excess globs of dried up sealant in my tires, I've found that the vast majority just evaporates away.
10. If you are buying new wheels, rims with solid rim beds that don't require tubeless tape are the way to go. Tubeless tape is the weak link for tubeless. Solid rim beds make everything easier to such a degree that I'm actually surprised manufacturers still sell tubeless rims with spoke holes. Solid rim beds might make it slightly more difficult to fix a broken spoke, but at least you don't have to retape the wheel after replacing the spoke. I have my shop replace broken spokes anyway and they don't charge any more with a solid rim bed, lol.

vespasianus

Lots of good information on this post. The only thing I will add is that I find that tubeless tires that are easier to mount, are still easy to inflate but don't seat evenly on the tires. I tend to have to deflate, lube with soapy water and massage a bit before re-inflating to get evenly seated around the tire.

Chandne

The lower PSI is very comfortable and grippy. I am comfortable with tubeless but on MTBs and gravel bikes. My most recent road bike came with ENVE 45s so I pretty much had no choice but to go tubeless since they came with tubeless tires. At 175 lbs, I am running 65/70 but will run 55/60 next. Here in Colorado , it will be really nice for those fast descents. Tubeless really is not necessary on the road but now with lower PSI and wider tires, it is making more sense. It is also safer here, since flats will likely give you advance notice of an issue. My only crash was when a front tube blew out on a descent. With tubeless, it is much more likely that I will feel it losing air.

fooferdoggie 

Now what about using different sealants then normal? I know a few people that use flat-out it's made for mostly regular tires but it has fibers and will seal up to 1/2" hole. but thats at lower Psi. they cam out with a newer version more for road bikes that will do a 1/4" hole. I am going try it and see. its biggest advantage is it will go 10 years without drying out. I know others who have used slime and such too.

Zaskar

Going tubeless on gravel and mtn bikes is essential. I'll go as far as mandatory. If you're getting by with tubed tires off-road, you're not doing it right ;-)

Tubeless on the road is definitely open for debate. I won't add to what's already been shared. I think the pros, cons, considerations have been well outlined. I'll just cast a vote in favor. Do it. Doooo it.

Chandne

As you go with fatter tires (I went from 25s to 28 to 32s) it becomes an easier deal since the PSI is much lower and sealant works better. I was one of the early adopters of ghetto-tubeless on Mtn bike in 2003/4, so I am very comfortable with tubeless. However, road tires can be tougher to put on of off at first. I leave them in the sun for 2-3 hours before install. That helps a lot. Once they are used, they become easier but I like testing them one more time by taking them off. I still have tubes on on road bike but will put Conti 5000 TLs on them. I found a few at a local shop.