Post your Centurion Ironman.. For the love of 80s paint jobs!
#1626
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Here's mine. 1986 model $200 off Craigslist. I did paint touch ups while making some other changes. H Plus Son Archetype with DT Swiss Champion laced to the Shimano 600 hubs. Changed the saddle to Charge Bucket as the Selle Italia Turbo was all cracked up. Swapped stock pedals for Crank Brothers Candy 1 laying around in the garage. Popped on the WTB Thick Slicks race from my old commuter and changed to an IRD Freewheel so I have a bail out when the hills get high. It's my commuter now.
#1627
Senior Member
Helluva commuter. Congratulations and Welcome to the forum. I like that black wheels/tires on the Classic. Hopefully someone or RT will be around for a pic bump.
Are those the original hoods?
Don't forget to post on centurion serial number thread.
Are those the original hoods?
Don't forget to post on centurion serial number thread.
Last edited by texaspandj; 01-02-16 at 06:10 PM.
#1629
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Here's mine. 1986 model $200 off Craigslist. I did paint touch ups while making some other changes. H Plus Son Archetype with DT Swiss Champion laced to the Shimano 600 hubs. Changed the saddle to Charge Bucket as the Selle Italia Turbo was all cracked up. Swapped stock pedals for Crank Brothers Candy 1 laying around in the garage. Popped on the WTB Thick Slicks race from my old commuter and changed to an IRD Freewheel so I have a bail out when the hills get high. It's my commuter now.
#1630
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I've started moving parts over to my Ironman. The front brake has a bad cable barrel adjusting bolt, and I can't find a BR-1050 replacement online anywhere. Any tips on a replacement, either NOS or another that would work?
#1631
Senior Member
As far as a substitute, perhaps RobbieTunes or rccardr would know. Or any other more experienced builders. Hopefully they'll be able to tell you shortly. Maybe someone else here has one. Post a pic of the part you need and you may get a response.
#1632
Senior Member
i think its just 6mm so any adjuster of that size would work.
#1633
Senior Member
Here's an Expert I refurb'd last year. The biggest cosmetic challenge was cleaning 25+ years worth of gunk off the gum hoods, but nothing a little solvent and detergent wouldn't solve.
#1637
Senior Member
New years day found me on my 88 tri setup ironman. It was cold. 42, ° 80 % humidity, 10-20 mph winds. That's cold for a 5th generation Texan. My apologies to people who live in actual cold climate, and are much heartier than me. But I'm finally actually riding in training mode for the Ironman distance triathlon I hope to be completing in May. Since that new year's ride I've ridden three other CIM. My other 88 is set up as a rode bike with ultegra 9 speed sti. And I gotta say I really love the look of modern on the CIM. However, I think centurion got it right with the original components. The 600 6 speed 13-24 is perfect for the type of riding I do and the terrain I stomp on. The 105 is so simple,classic and reliable I don't think you need anything else. The 7 speed tri color 600 is my favorite and as good as 80s dura ace.
Although my 88 has 9 speed 39,53 chain rings and I think 13-24 freewheel, it seems I can never find the right gear. Of course it could be the convenience of the sti shifting that has me shifting more frequently. Maybe it will be more useful on club rides.
Although I'll continue admiring the modern up grades, I gotta say I'll respect and understand one's decision to keep it stock. Later Iron Gents.
Although my 88 has 9 speed 39,53 chain rings and I think 13-24 freewheel, it seems I can never find the right gear. Of course it could be the convenience of the sti shifting that has me shifting more frequently. Maybe it will be more useful on club rides.
Although I'll continue admiring the modern up grades, I gotta say I'll respect and understand one's decision to keep it stock. Later Iron Gents.
#1638
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Although this is not about IM , it is about the Comp T/A . Which has been called the predecessor to the IM . Well anyhow I have been looking at them for a project I have in mind , the Comp looks good to me because of the tight wheel clearance (I really like that). The project is to build a velodrome track bike . Please note , I'm not building a fixie . I am drome certified and I want to get back into it , not race just ride . So anyhow I'm looking at the Comp and I think it would lend it's self to that sort of thing . The perfect frame comes up , it's mangled , it's cheap , twenty bucks and it's mine . I get it home , I put some wheels on it and it just doesn't have that tight wheel clearance , I'm bummed I am now uninspired with this frame . What happened ?
Last edited by markwesti; 01-06-16 at 01:45 PM.
#1639
Pedalin' Erry Day
Actually, I don't think I've posted in this thread before. Here's my [strike]Centurion Ironman[/strike] "Novara Trionfo" that used to have an ugly faded 80's paint job and other cosmetic issues...
...so I had it powdercoated.
Last edited by lasauge; 06-20-16 at 11:50 PM.
#1640
Senior Member
Although this is not about IM , it is about the Comp T/A . Which has been called the predecessor to the IM . Well anyhow I have been looking at them for a project I have in mind , the Comp looks good to me because of the tight wheel clearance (I really like that). The project is to build a velodrome track bike . Please note , I'm not building a fixie . I am drome certified and I want to get back into it , not race just ride . So anyhow I'm looking at the Comp and I think it would lend it's self to that sort of thing . The perfect frame comes up , it's mangled , it's cheap , twenty bucks and it's mine . I get it home , I put some wheels on it and it just doesn't have that tight wheel clearance , I'm bummed I am now uninspired with this frame . What happened ?
Last edited by texaspandj; 01-06-16 at 02:34 PM.
#1641
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Just a thought about using a centurion as a track bike even just for funsies. It might not work. Not being a downer just something to think about before you build up your bike. I have a local velodrome, that I'm certified on but never done anything past the initial sign off. It has fairly high angle corners (want to say it's something around 35-40 degree) in the corners. My limited understanding is that "track" geometry has a higher bottom bracket than a normal road bike and typically short cranks in the 160-165mm range for clearance to avoid pedal strike in the corners at lower speed. If your track is fairly flat and/or you plan to maintain a higher speed therefore less up right and using more centripetal force it could be perfectly doable. Or it could be not well suited or usable. This comment is also for anyone following along that might not have any knowledge in track related things.
#1642
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Yes bigger tires and 27" rims do the trick . Those wheel/ tires on my Comp are 700cx19 .
lasauge , nice looking bike . I'll bet it rides great .
tex right on all accounts , and yes that is my old 86' IM fork .
wheatfly , I hear you on the track geomerty . You are absolutely right . My last track bike was a kilo TT , and yes it had a higher BB shell and 165cm cranks . A few yrs. back when I was getting into velodrome stuff I had a talk with the track manager about BB/crank clearance , he didn't seem to be to worried about it and said they never measured anyone's bike to check for that . But like I said you are right , no real racer would do what I'm proposing . By the way my track is 46* ! LAVRA | LA Velodrome Racing Association
The easiest and best thing to do would be to just go to the drome and rent a bike for 20 . bucks , but I love building' bikes .
lasauge , nice looking bike . I'll bet it rides great .
tex right on all accounts , and yes that is my old 86' IM fork .
wheatfly , I hear you on the track geomerty . You are absolutely right . My last track bike was a kilo TT , and yes it had a higher BB shell and 165cm cranks . A few yrs. back when I was getting into velodrome stuff I had a talk with the track manager about BB/crank clearance , he didn't seem to be to worried about it and said they never measured anyone's bike to check for that . But like I said you are right , no real racer would do what I'm proposing . By the way my track is 46* ! LAVRA | LA Velodrome Racing Association
The easiest and best thing to do would be to just go to the drome and rent a bike for 20 . bucks , but I love building' bikes .
Last edited by markwesti; 01-06-16 at 04:24 PM.
#1643
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Right on! I don't know the details and how much the geometries vary from road, track and TT bikes. I would figure most tracks would be of the mindset: Ride what ever you want for fun and do so at your own risk if it deviates from official requirements/guidelines. An indoor wood track would be sweet/smooth!!! My limited experience is on concrete and the expansion joints are like riding on concrete interstates that have shifted over time with the "ka thunk, ka thunk, ka thunk"
I had to look it up the local track is 36 degrees. But it has a tree in the middle, a creek that runs through it, its not built to metric standards, and there is noticible elevation change such that turns 1,2 are higher than 3,4 so you have a down hill straight away and an uphill! Just some funny oddities to it. History - About | The Dick Lane Velodrome
I had to look it up the local track is 36 degrees. But it has a tree in the middle, a creek that runs through it, its not built to metric standards, and there is noticible elevation change such that turns 1,2 are higher than 3,4 so you have a down hill straight away and an uphill! Just some funny oddities to it. History - About | The Dick Lane Velodrome
#1644
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Just a thought about using a centurion as a track bike even just for funsies. It might not work. Not being a downer just something to think about before you build up your bike. I have a local velodrome, that I'm certified on but never done anything past the initial sign off. It has fairly high angle corners (want to say it's something around 35-40 degree) in the corners. My limited understanding is that "track" geometry has a higher bottom bracket than a normal road bike and typically short cranks in the 160-165mm range for clearance to avoid pedal strike in the corners at lower speed. If your track is fairly flat and/or you plan to maintain a higher speed therefore less up right and using more centripetal force it could be perfectly doable. Or it could be not well suited or usable. This comment is also for anyone following along that might not have any knowledge in track related things.
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So, your plans for that 56cm frame?......
Yes bigger tires and 27" rims do the trick . Those wheel/ tires on my Comp are 700cx19 .
lasauge , nice looking bike . I'll bet it rides great .
tex right on all accounts , and yes that is my old 86' IM fork .
wheatfly , I hear you on the track geomerty . You are absolutely right . My last track bike was a kilo TT , and yes it had a higher BB shell and 165cm cranks . A few yrs. back when I was getting into velodrome stuff I had a talk with the track manager about BB/crank clearance , he didn't seem to be to worried about it and said they never measured anyone's bike to check for that . But like I said you are right , no real racer would do what I'm proposing . By the way my track is 46* ! LAVRA | LA Velodrome Racing Association
The easiest and best thing to do would be to just go to the drome and rent a bike for 20 . bucks , but I love building' bikes .
lasauge , nice looking bike . I'll bet it rides great .
tex right on all accounts , and yes that is my old 86' IM fork .
wheatfly , I hear you on the track geomerty . You are absolutely right . My last track bike was a kilo TT , and yes it had a higher BB shell and 165cm cranks . A few yrs. back when I was getting into velodrome stuff I had a talk with the track manager about BB/crank clearance , he didn't seem to be to worried about it and said they never measured anyone's bike to check for that . But like I said you are right , no real racer would do what I'm proposing . By the way my track is 46* ! LAVRA | LA Velodrome Racing Association
The easiest and best thing to do would be to just go to the drome and rent a bike for 20 . bucks , but I love building' bikes .
#1646
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#1648
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#1649
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You don't particularly need a higher BB or shorter cranks. When you go around a banking, you're riding almost perpendicular to the surface, not really upright in relation to the flat ground. The hardest thing about using a road frame as a track frame is getting the chainline correct, as well as finding gearing that you can cut a chain to the correct length with the small adjustment on the short horizontal dropouts.
#1650
Senior Member
You don't particularly need a higher BB or shorter cranks. When you go around a banking, you're riding almost perpendicular to the surface, not really upright in relation to the flat ground. The hardest thing about using a road frame as a track frame is getting the chainline correct, as well as finding gearing that you can cut a chain to the correct length with the small adjustment on the short horizontal dropouts.