RobbieTunes

Yes, if you're not too worn out from your anniversary date runs....lover boy.

RobbieTunes

I'd pull both tires and both tubes, then go in and wash your hands very well, get them good and soft and tender. Then, go back out and run your fingers around the rims on the inside of the lip and everywhere on the rim strip. If you slice your finger, you've found it, so be careful. I'd probably get new rim strips just because. Then, new tubes. Then, take those same tender hands and slowly go around the inside of the tire, but remember some things don't poke through until the tire is under pressure. Probably time to get new tires. Lotta sales right now, so feel free to get some yellow-striped Lithions and go stylin'.....

RobbieTunes

The Miami Vice was my target bike, but the same yellow is on the my '87 Master.

The "magenta" or whatever: Testor's Hot Pink in the little bottle. 5 drops of royal blue from a paint pen, dabbed into the rim of the bottle and let it slide down, then about 10 drops of white from a paint pen, same way. About 2 dribbles of thinner, inserted 2 BB's, and shook. Darn near perfect.

The yeller: Testors Yellow in the little bottle, about 4 drops of Testor's red from another bottle, a bit of thinner, inserted 2 BB's and shook it. Once it dried, I could barely see it.

I'll be doing some rubbing compound tomorrow. In between some wrenching on a certain Centurion that arrived from Australia....

attylah

Awesome! Great info. When you start bottling and selling it, let me know!

QUOTE=RobbieTunes;18486622]The Miami Vice was my target bike, but the same yellow is on the my '87 Master.

The "magenta" or whatever: Testor's Hot Pink in the little bottle. 5 drops of royal blue from a paint pen, dabbed into the rim of the bottle and let it slide down, then about 10 drops of white from a paint pen, same way. About 2 dribbles of thinner, inserted 2 BB's, and shook. Darn near perfect.

The yeller: Testors Yellow in the little bottle, about 4 drops of Testor's red from another bottle, a bit of thinner, inserted 2 BB's and shook it. Once it dried, I could barely see it.

I'll be doing some rubbing compound tomorrow. In between some wrenching on a certain Centurion that arrived from Australia....[/QUOTE]

texaspandj

Thanks R.T.
The tires, tubes, and rim strips are new. Its what came with the wheels, however not the highest quality. I will take your advice and use 0000 steel wool for any sharpness and get new rim strips, tubes and tires. But black sidewall. I don't particularly like the yellow wall I have but they came with the wheels.
Any recommendations?
I realize this isn't a mechanics thread or whatever, but I respect and value y'alls opinion. Thanks.

RobbieTunes

I forgot to add a couple steps, (been there done that a few times).

1-pull everything off, down to the rim.
2-check visually for any burrs, etc around the spoke holes.
3-then do the finger thing, but be careful.
4-you can go over/re-use the rim strips if they're plastic, but I'm big on new wider Velox strip (or the Velox tubular tape).
5-now that you've ruled out the rims, go to the tires.
6-turn the tires inside out, now check them very carefully.
7-turn the tires right side out, and check them again.
7-toss the tubes.
8-start over, knowing it's not the rim, strips, or tires. you can re-use the tires, most likely.

If you don't, yellow stripes?, perhaps I can take them off your hands....

FWIW:
I had a shop gift me 5 tubes, black box, brand name "Yaw" and every single one had at least one hole in it, no pattern.
I picked up 3 Cheng tubes (Cheng Shin?) and two had holes at the valve, one had a hole elsewhere.
Bontrager once had a problem with tubes, but fixed it, cost me about 4-5 tubes in the process.
I've been buying house brand tubes on sale from Performance and REI, no problems.
If I see Schwalbe or Continental tubes on sale, I generally get them. Never had a problem with either.

RobbieTunes

Just to bump back to p1.

texaspandj

To follow up. I removed tires tube and rim strip. I checked inside rim and sure enough a couple of rough spots. RT, that was elementary genius.
I just didn't expect or suspect a good rim could be bad like that. Where the seam is, it was rough,but inside walls were good. On the other rim, seam was very good but inside wall rough. It took a long time with 0000 steel wool to make it smoother. I went over the whole wheels and spoke holes with the steel wool.
I put the same very nice rim strips back on. I put 2 new tubes and put same practically new tires back on. I'm no hurry to take it on a ride.
So that was Monday when I rode that 88 yellow fade built as a rode bike with sti It was sunny and 65°.
Today it was partly sunny and 50° and a wicked head wind . I was in my next to smallest gear until,the turn around. I took my MV built as a rode bike with original issued components. The 105 components shift well, but that front derailleur is very good. It has a super smooth, very short throw both ways. When you change chain rings you do not feel it at all. However most of the ride I was trying to change gears as if it were sti. I can't believe I got used to sti so freaking quick. Friday it's suppose to be sunny and in the 70s. I'll ride my 86 set up as a tri with down tube shifters. Sunday I'll ride my long ride with what I'm taking to the dance, my 88 purple haze with grip shift. I'm experienced enough to know I need to make sure I'm comfortable on the bike I'll be competing with. But I'll tell ya, it's so fun riding those different CIM bikes. Especially fun is the road bikes when climbing. Roll on Iron Gents.

texaspandj

WOW. Super nice. I like the new touches. What wheels are those? As a matter of fact ,give us the run down on components again. Thanks.

RobbieTunes

1989 Carbon-R frame, 56cm
1989 Aluminum fork (If I recall correctly, that fork is different than the one that was on the Ironman Carbon. The crown slopes a lot more)
Shimano 6400 headset
Nitto Young stem
Nitto B115-42 bars
Ciclolinea cork wrap (I saved the Deda leather in case I take it to a C&V show)
Jagwire Racer Pro cable/housing kit (I tossed the black, as the OEM was grey Shimano, and I happen to have a full Shimano kit in grey)
Japanese copy of a Selle San Marcos Concor (I kept the NOS Turbo, of course, in a bubble-wrap bag, in case I display the bike)
Unk seat post. I honestly haven't had a chance to look at it. 25.4, though, as I bought American Classics for my IM Carbons)
Shimano 6403 FD 28.6 clamp
Shimano 6403 RD (the "filled" pulley cages)
Shimano 6403 crankset with silver BioPace 53/42 rings
Shimano 6400 bottom bracket (says Shimano on it)
Shimano 6403 calipers (dual pivot)
Shimano 6402 shifters (he even included the little caps over the cable ends)
Shimano 6400 toe clip pedals, with aftermarket red leather straps
Shimano 6402 hubs laced to Araya CTL-370 rims
Veloflex Master 700x23 clinchers
Shimano 6701 chain (QV kept his "signature" gold chain, and it's the only new one I had, works fine)

Changes I made after unpacking:
He was using a L-rear and R-front brake setup. I switched them back to L-front and R-rear.
Added tires and tubes (he kept his tires and tubes, by arrangement)
Added my own pedals (he kept his pedals, by arrangement)
First, I re-assembled it the way he had it, pretty much, with black wrap, housing, and the Turbo.

Then, I looked into my fairly shallow parts box, came up with new wrap in a yellow that matched the Jagwire set (that didn't match my Ironman) and I just happened to have that "Don't Tread on Me" seat bag in the same yellow. I also has some red housing that was a possibility, but 2" too short. So, yellow it was. I haven't even wiped the bike down yet. QV included a spare set of decals, too. I'm trying to find a photo of an original Carbon-R, as the Ironman Carbon also had "Centurion" on the seat post, but I don't think the Carbon-R did.

To do: Jury is out on the carbon bottle cage. I wish I had one of those Weyless carbon ones, or something more appropriate to the frame. I think I may go stainless Elite Ciussi (Inox). Inox is the European term for stainless steel.

RobbieTunes

Elementary genius would the the only kind I could muster. I'm glad it worked out for you. I forgot to mention that I've seen it more than once on Mavic rims. I was using those plugs in lieu of strips on a set of Ksyrium Anniversary ES wheels, and flatted like you did. Pulled the plugs, sanded down the inside of the rim, went back to FSA rim strips, and no problems thereafter.

markwesti

That is pretty cool looking . The fork crown slopes like the seat stay crown , nice .

jetboy 

I agree - whatever that fork is keep it. that slope is awesome. not sure I have seen the like.

RobbieTunes

I couldn't find a pic of my previous Ironman Carbon bikes, but I did find a couple of examples on line. The fork on the Ironman Carbon is definitely different, doesn't have near as much slope and is quite rounded at the outside edge of the crown. The seam is still there, but definitely a different fork. The Ironman Carbon also had "Centurion" on the seat tube. I don't think the Carbon-R did, because QV sent me the original decals that he painstakingly pulled off the bike and re-mounted to backing paper. That's how cool he is. In his "before" pics, there was clearly no "Centurion" decal on the seat tube.

This definitely has the less-sloped fork crown, and appears to have the full DA package (justifying the $1295 MSRP0 and upgraded to 8-sp STI.



These two are the same bike, but the fork crown is definitely the same as I recall, and less sloped.

rccardr 

This is Bob. Ran into him early in the morning before the start of The Tour de Palm Springs in California last weekend. Bob's riding his pretty-much-original '86 Classic and has ridden the Tour a number of times. I suggested he stop by BF and check out this thread:



This is Zack. Met him at the 90 mile rest stop. He looked fresh as a daisy, and I looked, well, less daisy-like. His '87 MV is in very nice shape, using what looked like Ergo shifters on probably a 7 speed freewheel and the original wheels. Zack said that the front rack made the steering feel somewhat heavier but also increased the bike's carrying ability. Also said he should check out this thread on BF, as he'd never been here:

rhm

Was there a 650c version? Certainly not 650b... my guess is the seller don't know Jack.



Centurion Ironman Jack Scott 12-Speed Bicycle 650b Rims VG Condition

texaspandj

Jack is Back!

texaspandj

Too cool rccardr. Nice pics of nice bikes/riders. Did you use a phone camera?
I knew there were others.
Zack's bike leads me to a question. My wife is getting ready to train on her 1986 50cm classic CIM. It has stock components. Is there a brifter I can put on there that is 6 peed compatible? She's not comfortable with DT shifting. Ive been thinking about a donor bike with 7 or 8 speed so I can just swap out everything including wheels. But I'd be inclined to go the cheaper if I have a choice.

jetboy 

go bar end? I don't think there are 6 speed brifters.

Darth Lefty 

@RobbieTunes, if you switched Ultegra for Chorus it could be a Spaghetti Carbon-R-a

RobbieTunes

Outstanding, and look at the age range. Universal Truth.

RobbieTunes

Jack is a cousin, lives down the street from Dave Scott's cousins Larry, Darryl, and his other brother Darryl.

QuangVuong

In regards to the fork in the Carbon-R, I have seen that fork in the few examples of other Carbon-R frames, at least the Australian ones. The top fork is the one on Robbietunes' bike, and the lower one is off another Carbon-R that I built for a friend. i would assume that it is the original fork, which is stamped Tange on the steerer.


And here is another Carbon-R that was offered to me. Same fork as well.

RobbieTunes

There you have it.

RobbieTunes

Carbon-R Shakedown Ride finds Robbie Still Stupid

Not exactly breaking news....It got up to 45 today, but with 30-35mph winds. I went anyway. Stupid #1

-Front brake didn't work. I reached down, the darn thing wasn't even tightened down. Stupid #2

-Shifted smoothly and quietly for 8 of 12 miles. Then, wouldn't stay in gear. Cable was loose. Stupid #3

-Chain skip/jump at the master link (10sp chain on 8sp bike). Missing spacer, fixed. Twisted, fixed that, too. Not really stupid.

-Bars need to be rolled forward, reset with drops parallel to the ground.

-SSM Concor copy is so much more comfortable than the Turbo. Finally, a good move on my part.

Otherwise, dead quiet, definitely a stiffer fork than the Ironman Carbon. In fact, rode a lot like an Ironman, but lighter. Which is how it should. Every time I ride a set of 6400/7400/7700 hubs, I'm reminded of the silky smooth ball bearings that really need no improvement, and there's no wonder Dura Ace still uses them in it's hubs.

Went home, fixed everything, back out for 2 miles. Dead quiet, precise shifting, beautiful stopping, fit is right one. Love this bike. Of course, I carefully stored the Turbo, the Deda leather wrap, and a complete OEM set of grey cable housing in my Carbon-R box.

Now, to get as fit as the 12-23 freewheel thinks I am.