Nel

I test rode a Kona Unit 20" frame, and liked the feel, but had nothing to compare it to. The 20" was the only size the store had in stock. I'm 5' 11" with about a 33" inseam, shorter torso, and longer arms. I ride a Specialized Allez 56cm road bike. Found a Kona sizing chart that said for someone 5'11, the 19" is the right size, and a 20" is for someone 6' 0" to 6' 4". My confusion is that, looking at reach and standover, it will fit.
Some other threads said top tube length is more important but it doesn't seem to compare to my road bike at all. (I don't think I should be getting the 16")
Also, this will be a commuter bike rather than trails, so I will also be converting it to a 1x10, (Anyone know of any rigid steel 29ers that are geared?)
What do you think?

JonathanGennick 

Since you're only an inch away from being 5' 12", you might be able to go either way, depending upon your preferences.

Does your shop have any other Kona bikes in the 19" size for you to try? Trying some other model in 19" wouldn't be apples-to-apples, but it might make for a useful experiment.

FWIW, I'm 5' 9", and right at the top-edge of the range that Specialized gives for their 17" frame size. I just built up a 19" frame bike as an experiment, because I feel my riding style is such that I would benefit from a longer top-tube and a slightly reduced seat-to-bar drop. I am one inch below the recommended, 5' 10" starting point for a 19" frame, but so far I like what I've built. Today will be my first real ride on the bike though, so you might want to hit me up in a week or two for a long-term opinion.

Yotsko

Also FWIW...I'm 5'9" and ride a 19" 29er. The cockpit is much mo' betta.

NCMTBIKER

Better get a 19

Mr Pink57

If you can I would your pedals on the bike and ride it around a bit to see if there is any toe overlap for you also. I have a 32" inseam am 5'10" and ride a 18" Inbred 29er. On the toe overlap I have usually only noticed this on the smaller of frame usually S or XS this seems common, I have a 50cm road bike (awesome deal and I usually ride a 52mm) and I get toe overlap.

Malemute_Kid

Redline (D440) and GT (Peace) make rigid geared 29ers.

Nel

Sorry, I meant to ask if there were any rigid steel 29ers with a 1x gearing. Redline used to have the D460. I saw one on craigslist I'm considering. And it's a 19".

Guess I'm being pretty particular...I want steel for the comfort, rigid for the weight/maintenance, and some gears for the hills (but just in the back...someone once said rear derailleurs are science and front are voodoo). Seems like a lot of people create 1x9/10's on their own, judging by some of the threads about that kind of conversion...Anyway, it just seems like there is a latent demand for them.

Thanks for all the replies about sizing. The 20" is all they have and it's quite a hike to other dealers. My gut is that 19" is a better fit, though.

Malemute_Kid

The Redline D440 is a rigid steel 29er with 1x8 gearing

Nel

Yes, you're right, it was 1x8 on the 2010 model. The 2011 is 2x8. Not sure about the 2012...

Malemute_Kid

I didnt realize they changed the new models....... last time i was looking at the Redlines was in 2010.....

Peter_leo

You should let the bike shop help with the correct frame.

Michellemayer

Despite all this information, is it still difficult to choose the frame size? A practical tip is to ride on a friend's bike that has a frame the size you intend to buy. In general, smaller frames are lighter and more agile and larger ones are more stable and comfortable.

When evaluating measurements, manufacturers usually quote the vertical pipe measurement first and then the horizontal pipe measurement. When there is only one measurement, it is understood that the two tubes are the same size (square frame).

In the case of sloping frames, the slope must be neglected. You can measure with the tape measure parallel to the floor.

A very important measurement in relation to the frame is the height. The length can be adjusted by changing the table. There are table options from 7 to 14 cm, with gradations from 0.5 to 0.5 cm.

For MTBs, there's a nifty rule you can use: measure your horse's height, convert to inches and subtract 14.

For example, if your horse measures 83 cm, that means 32.67 inches. Subtracting 14 (32.67-14) gives you 18.67 inches. So the ideal frame would be 18.5 inches.

Although it sounds like a lot of information, remember that choosing the ideal frame size is very important, as this is the most difficult component to change on a bike. And don't forget that the other items on your bike must be compatible with your frame size, such as wheels and fork.

Darth Lefty 

Hi Michelle,

This thread is from eleven years ago, your translation is a bit off, and mountain bike sizing has changed to favor the top tube length. It's best to follow the bike shop or manufacturer's recommendations for rider height per size unless you know better.

prj71