Who's riding the "wrong" frame size?
#1
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Who's riding the "wrong" frame size?
I'm 6'1" and a bit. I'm pretty desperate at this point, and had an XL hybrid (bike theft, stock is non-existent) that fit well for road, but felt a little tippy for off-road trails. I'm leaning gravel bike as I'm 90% road, 5% gravel/groomed paths, 5% true off-road trails with rocks/roots, etc.
I was planning on getting a beater MTB for that 5% and for when I'm taking it places like camp sites or patios or whatever with higher theft risk.
I've been discounting L frame, going by sizing charts, but maybe a large frame is fine. I know I know, just go and ride it, but I'm dealing with classified ads at this point out of town, so would like to limit number of trips/test rides.
I was planning on getting a beater MTB for that 5% and for when I'm taking it places like camp sites or patios or whatever with higher theft risk.
I've been discounting L frame, going by sizing charts, but maybe a large frame is fine. I know I know, just go and ride it, but I'm dealing with classified ads at this point out of town, so would like to limit number of trips/test rides.
#2
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Don't buy the wrong size bike.
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Sometimes finding the right bike takes time. Now, with what is going on, it is particularly hard. I ride only one type of bike so most of the time I can look at a bike and find the right fit. Off road or trail riding is much different. I don’t know of any short cut to finding the right fit other than riding it. For vintage road bikes , it is simply top tube length and seat tube length for comfort and then frame material and fork angle/curve for agility or performance.
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As years go by I am leaning more towards Grant Peterson at Rivendelle's theory on sizing. 20 years ago we thought riding a size smaller made for a lighter more agile bike. Actually we just had to go to drastic measures like long setback seatposts and long stems to get comfortable. Now Itend to err on the big side if I am in-between on the manufacturers sizing charts. If I can I just buy according to the cockpit length and stack height (headtube height) I know I need to get the fit right. That keeps setup simple.
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Who's riding the "wrong" frame size?
Typical frame size, for a '90s-era MTB type bike: 15.5" or 16" frame.
Height 5'9", give or take, but with shorter legs and a nearly-upright riding position preferred. Past two bikes have been '90s-format MTB types, 15.5" or 16" frames, with riser/swept bars and suitable stems for the position I'm looking for. Works very well, for me.
A bit non-traditional, I know. But it's one of the few ways to avoid stupid-long top tubes while still allowing for a short enough stand-over height and otherwise mostly-appropriate overall sizing. Short of going custom, that is.
Also have a 56cm Raleigh Cadent for speedier "town" riding with a bar/stem that has only modest rise/sweep. Too far forward for preference, but it works well. (The 52cm would probably have been a better choice, but this one's fine.)
#6
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I also will tend to a larger frame in future. I use toe clips and always will, but with a frame on the small side on fit charts, I have toe overlap problems. I'm 6'0", have a 58cm gravel bike and a 61cm cyclocross bike. 59 1/2 would be ideal...
I find you can tweak the fit quite a bit with a stem length change if necessary, and seat fore and aft, handlebar angle, stem height, seat height and angle. Could even go to shorter crank arms for toe overlap, though that's a step too far for me.
I find you can tweak the fit quite a bit with a stem length change if necessary, and seat fore and aft, handlebar angle, stem height, seat height and angle. Could even go to shorter crank arms for toe overlap, though that's a step too far for me.
Last edited by Chuckles1; 09-08-20 at 09:11 AM.
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I'm about the same height as you and a 54-56 cm bike fits me well. When I first started serious riding 5 years ago, I was riding my old mountain bike which was a 17" bike, Needless to say that thing was extremely hard to ride, partly because the bike itself was heavy, but mainly because I needed a bigger bike. Even with the seat post out as far as permissible, a 20 mile ride on that bike made my legs hurt afterwards. When I knew I was going to be serious about riding, I knew I needed a bike that fit me better. Looking online for a bike sizing chart, I realized I need a 21-22" bike, or around 54-56cm, and I got one. After learning how much easier it was to ride a bike that fits, I swore I'd never ride an ill-fitting bike again.
I'd say that if you're going to spend money on a bike, it's best to get one that fits you right. A bike that doesn't fit you well is like wearing shoes that don't fit well.
I'd say that if you're going to spend money on a bike, it's best to get one that fits you right. A bike that doesn't fit you well is like wearing shoes that don't fit well.
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I like to leave some wiggle room. Too big, it's harder to achieve comfort imo.
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#9
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I’m just under 6’2”, 34 inseam, and by almost all bike fitment calculators am a 58 or L. The bike that fits me the best is my Open UP which seems to have sizing closer to a 56 across many brands than my 58 Trek or Cannondale. Yes, there is toe overlap. On a road bike....who cares?
I do seem to enjoy smaller sizing but just bought a 58 Canyon Ultimate, I did consider going against their recommendation on size but worried about seatpost sizing.
I do seem to enjoy smaller sizing but just bought a 58 Canyon Ultimate, I did consider going against their recommendation on size but worried about seatpost sizing.
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61cm
I'm 6"1" and riding a Cervelo R3 61cm.
It is defiantly too large.
I had to replace the 100mm stem with a 70mm and the 25mm seat post with a zero setback post.
It is still not ideal. But I'm enjoying it.
The shop that did my bike fit claims 58cm is where I should be.
Barry
It is defiantly too large.
I had to replace the 100mm stem with a 70mm and the 25mm seat post with a zero setback post.
It is still not ideal. But I'm enjoying it.
The shop that did my bike fit claims 58cm is where I should be.
Barry
#12
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Canyon wanted me on a Medium Endurace, but the Large I bought is really comfortable. Is that wrong?
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#13
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I have a size 52 Cervelo R3 and I’m 5.7”. I went for a professional fitting last month and was told I would have been better off with a 54 frame. We made it work but I am on too small of a dreams.
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#14
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I bought a Specialized road bike (no model name -- early production) on sale in about 1986. It's too big, but I didn't know about bike fitting then. I had worked in a bike shop, but the only sizing guideline I knew at the time was to allow 1" clearance between top tube and crotch.
It's always been too big. I've really bastardized it since, too. New handlebars, seat, headset, dished the rear wheel so I'd stop riding in circles, etc. I added a handlebar bag, a seat pack, a corner pack, a back rack from Old Man Mountain, light water bottle cups, a frame pump. I've added things that make the "cool" people angry. Try riding into the start of a very popular century (5,000 riders) with a handlebar sleeve that holds a large 7-Eleven black coffee, while carrying a chocolate eclair in one hand! My only goal is to finish, might as well be happy along the way. I've ridden centuries, local weekend rides, etc., usually alone (so I need repair gear). I bought a rain kit and a suit bag so I could commute to work. Damn! Uphill in all directions with a full suit of clothes and law books. One night I did get a tailwind from a tornado that pushed me up a long, steep hill past all the stopped traffic, with all that gear, no pedaling required. Most awesome ride ever!
It's a nice-looking bike to this day. I think I'll add a Brooks leather seat. The bike won't fit correctly, and my butt will be sore for a while, but it'll be that much nicer and that much more fun.
It's always been too big. I've really bastardized it since, too. New handlebars, seat, headset, dished the rear wheel so I'd stop riding in circles, etc. I added a handlebar bag, a seat pack, a corner pack, a back rack from Old Man Mountain, light water bottle cups, a frame pump. I've added things that make the "cool" people angry. Try riding into the start of a very popular century (5,000 riders) with a handlebar sleeve that holds a large 7-Eleven black coffee, while carrying a chocolate eclair in one hand! My only goal is to finish, might as well be happy along the way. I've ridden centuries, local weekend rides, etc., usually alone (so I need repair gear). I bought a rain kit and a suit bag so I could commute to work. Damn! Uphill in all directions with a full suit of clothes and law books. One night I did get a tailwind from a tornado that pushed me up a long, steep hill past all the stopped traffic, with all that gear, no pedaling required. Most awesome ride ever!
It's a nice-looking bike to this day. I think I'll add a Brooks leather seat. The bike won't fit correctly, and my butt will be sore for a while, but it'll be that much nicer and that much more fun.
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I own a bike that really isn't quite the right size but I had to have it and I can ride it without discomfort (just don't really have clearance between crotch and top tube) but that is a special case and I have plenty of other bikes to ride and this one is not one I need to ride often.
Always get the right size bike.
Always get the right size bike.
#16
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I'm 5'6 and I've been riding on a 44cm Bianchi San Jose, I like the feel of it even though I should be riding a 49-50cm frame. I'm currently looking to purchase a bike in my size, I've noticed I have to be extra careful of foot placement otherwise toe overlap becomes a serious issue.
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5' 9" here with shortish torso and longish legs and arms.
One bike I currently have is a "Medium" because that's what spreadsheet specs said would fit me. Since this bike has an angled top tube, I can't rightly say what the size in centimeters it is. The seat was easy enough to raise, but I had to get a new stem and bars to move my hands forward and higher.
The other bike I currently have was labeled a "Large - rider height range 5'10" to 6'1" ". It measures 56 cm at the seat tube. It fits me much better as is.
One bike I currently have is a "Medium" because that's what spreadsheet specs said would fit me. Since this bike has an angled top tube, I can't rightly say what the size in centimeters it is. The seat was easy enough to raise, but I had to get a new stem and bars to move my hands forward and higher.
The other bike I currently have was labeled a "Large - rider height range 5'10" to 6'1" ". It measures 56 cm at the seat tube. It fits me much better as is.
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I'm the same height as you and my bike has 380mm reach and I use a 120mm stem
Last edited by jadocs; 09-10-20 at 08:57 AM.
#19
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I ride a road bike frame that is 'just' a bit too small for me. I do so in regard to my prosthetic foot and being able to comfortably (for the berries) to reach the ground.
The city bike I have is larger but follows more of a MTB geometry.
The city bike I have is larger but follows more of a MTB geometry.
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I ride a 62cm touring frame. I have a long stem with rise and a lot of seatpost exposed. I feel like a 64cm, which is available in a lot of touring bikes, would be better.
I have no problem riding many miles on it, though.
I have no problem riding many miles on it, though.
#22
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Sorry I didn't mean 52, I meant 51. You are correct. 54 would have probably worked better for me based on the geometry. I have a 110 stem and the seat is moved pretty far forward to get me where I need to be.
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I’m just under 6’2”, 34 inseam, and by almost all bike fitment calculators am a 58 or L. The bike that fits me the best is my Open UP which seems to have sizing closer to a 56 across many brands than my 58 Trek or Cannondale. Yes, there is toe overlap. On a road bike....who cares?
I do seem to enjoy smaller sizing but just bought a 58 Canyon Ultimate, I did consider going against their recommendation on size but worried about seatpost sizing.
I do seem to enjoy smaller sizing but just bought a 58 Canyon Ultimate, I did consider going against their recommendation on size but worried about seatpost sizing.
#24
Full Member
I'm 6'1" and a bit. I'm pretty desperate at this point, and had an XL hybrid (bike theft, stock is non-existent) that fit well for road, but felt a little tippy for off-road trails. I'm leaning gravel bike as I'm 90% road, 5% gravel/groomed paths, 5% true off-road trails with rocks/roots, etc.
I was planning on getting a beater MTB for that 5% and for when I'm taking it places like camp sites or patios or whatever with higher theft risk.
I've been discounting L frame, going by sizing charts, but maybe a large frame is fine. I know I know, just go and ride it, but I'm dealing with classified ads at this point out of town, so would like to limit number of trips/test rides.
I was planning on getting a beater MTB for that 5% and for when I'm taking it places like camp sites or patios or whatever with higher theft risk.
I've been discounting L frame, going by sizing charts, but maybe a large frame is fine. I know I know, just go and ride it, but I'm dealing with classified ads at this point out of town, so would like to limit number of trips/test rides.
Or you can go with V-brakes. I've found that cantilevers don't have enough power in steep terrain. But V-brakes (700c SPECIFIC TRP for instance) are nearly as good as disks without the danger of accidental locking.
Then you can use older CX bikes like https://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-Peugeo...sAAOSwsnldbFwc
If you can go new bikes a Trek Tom Boonen is a good choice. Lifetime limited warranty.
#25
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Why is it that people seem to think that the only way to determine frame size is with your height? Start with inseam.