Disk Brakes
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Disk Brakes
On Disk Brakes how do you know when to change the brake pads? Does it make a sound like cars do? I know the brake levers get closer to the bars, but how do you know if it needs adjustment or new pads? Is they're a mileage standard? Thank You very mucy for your input.
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You go for an Oil change, and the Stealership recommends replacement when they are only 50% worn.
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The pad manufacturer specifies the minimum thickness. I just eyeball it. If they start making a clunking sound against the rotor, then they're past due for replacement. And no, the level travel won't change if they're hydraulic, only mechanical ones would.
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When they don't work anymore. It's a process that sees them not working as well, having to apply more and more pressure until there is nothing left in the lever.
That is when I replace the pads.
.... or if they get fouled with oil or grease or some other material
That is when I replace the pads.
.... or if they get fouled with oil or grease or some other material
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How about you tell us what kind of brakes you have? Disregard all advice til you've posted brand/model.
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I give my brakes a visual inspection...After so many years of riding I have a pretty good feel when to replace them....When to change brake pads is really just common sense.
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if they go from braking speed to me breaking skin, that's usually a good indicator that they're spent. looking up the specs & tolerances from the OEM is another method.
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When you adjust for wear do NOT use the barrel adjusters, ONLY adjust with the adjustable inner piston and adjusting the caliper position.
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I just changed the front rotor and pads. The rotors have the minimum thickness. The torque specs for the mounting bolts. The diameter, the brand and the direction of rotation printed to the side that faces out between the bolt holes. The rotor I removed had a minimum thickness of 1.5mm and squalled when it wormed up going down a steep grade. The replacement rotor has a minimum thickness of 1.8mm. The pads I replaced were not worn out all the way. The new pads are Kool Stop ceramic instead of the sintered.
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I just changed the front rotor and pads. The rotors have the minimum thickness. The torque specs for the mounting bolts. The diameter, the brand and the direction of rotation printed to the side that faces out between the bolt holes. The rotor I removed had a minimum thickness of 1.5mm and squalled when it wormed up going down a steep grade. The replacement rotor has a minimum thickness of 1.8mm. The pads I replaced were not worn out all the way. The new pads are Kool Stop ceramic instead of the sintered.
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Minimum thickness of 1.8mm? You sure?
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Visually just look? We are talking tenths of a millimeter. That will make a difference. I know I'm not good enough to visually look and decide about something that is less than .004 inches (1/256 ths of an inch).
I also will imagine... since mine aren't worn halfway to the recommended replace, that replacing as soon as or even earlier than recommended will help to keep disc brakes from having issues with pistons getting a little askew in the cylinder causing rub and other issues.
Harbor Freight has very cheap digital calipers that are accurate enough for the job. Pads on my brakes come out easily for inspection. And the disc itself needs to be checked to the manufacturers spec. An under spec disc with under spec pads might be even worse on the piston. And which is in the expensive part of the brake to replace.
As to the OP's question, I can only ask why don't they do what the manufacturer of their brakes say to do for that model. Shimano, SRAM and others have documents online that tell exactly when to replace.
I also will imagine... since mine aren't worn halfway to the recommended replace, that replacing as soon as or even earlier than recommended will help to keep disc brakes from having issues with pistons getting a little askew in the cylinder causing rub and other issues.
Harbor Freight has very cheap digital calipers that are accurate enough for the job. Pads on my brakes come out easily for inspection. And the disc itself needs to be checked to the manufacturers spec. An under spec disc with under spec pads might be even worse on the piston. And which is in the expensive part of the brake to replace.
As to the OP's question, I can only ask why don't they do what the manufacturer of their brakes say to do for that model. Shimano, SRAM and others have documents online that tell exactly when to replace.
Last edited by Iride01; 06-02-21 at 07:52 AM.
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On my Shimano brake pads, I replace them whenever the pad is flush with the separator spring.
I measure the thickness of the rotors and replace them when they reach the minimum thickness - 1.5mm
I measure the thickness of the rotors and replace them when they reach the minimum thickness - 1.5mm
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Just to be clear, the OP is asking about pads, not the rotor. It is pretty easy to see if you are running out of pad.
But yes, you need calipers to measure a rotor.
But yes, you need calipers to measure a rotor.
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