DaveLeeNC

Does anyone make a pedal wrench that has the an open end 15mm socket in the middle so you can conveniently push and pull up/down rather than using some kind of conventional wrench (where your pressure tends to move the bike/pedal and when the pedal breaks free bad things can happen)? It just seems like a natural but I don't see any after a quick search.

Thanks.

dave

Iride01 

Open end 15 mm socket? Open end and socket are two different things. Is that what you mean?

I guess I sort of understand what you mean, essentially you want a pedal wrench with a handle on both sides. I've not seen one.

base2 

Pedal wrenches are the length they are so that when you approach the task properly, you hold the pedal in one hand & the grip end of the wrench in the other the force applied cancels out & the torque moment is on the pedal spindle only.

Installing the pedal wrench wrongly as many amateurs tend to do summates the forces instead of canceling them, making the task very difficult.

Trakhak

If by "bad things can happen" you mean having the pedal axle suddenly break free of the crank threads such that your knuckles slam into the teeth of the big chainring, just do what JohnDThompson does and wear a thick glove to protect your hand (JohnD wears a welder's glove, I believe).

DaveLeeNC

A true socket would not work but I did not know what to call it so I called it an open end socket. It would be a 15mm open end WhateverItIs in the middle of a bar.

dave

Iride01 

15 mm open end wrench. Just leave off socket.

_ForceD_

I use the Park PW-3 pedal wrench. It’s got a significantly longer handle that I closely align with the chain stay, and then squeeze the handle and chain stay together like you would a pair of channel locks, and the pedal generally loosens easily. Of course I don’t overly tighten my pedals though (and have never had an issue with one unscrewing). But if the pedal is unusually tight this might be a little more difficult. Before I had the PW-3, I would use a regular 15mm open end wrench, and fit a 12-16 inch length of steel pipe over it to give me the extra length and leverage. — Dan

Barry2 

If you really must...
What about a 15mm Crows Foot on a Sliding T-Handle?

Barry

blacknbluebikes 

style points awarded when you break the tightness then spin the crank instead of the wrench.

smd4

That's really a thing?

FBOATSB

Is this what you mean? Called a crow foot. Available everywhere high or low quality tools are bought.
And yes, technique is paramount over what wrench you use. (Random pic off the googles.)

Schweinhund

Second on that PW3
Also this little cheapie I picked up at the flea market

|

Schweinhund

Careful if you ever use one of those. They like to blow apart where the ratchet clips in. Easy does it.

smd4

I prefer something a little longer, with a little more leverage. I use a vintage Cyclo, which looks a lot like this Unior:

Unior Pedal Wrench

soyabean

smd4

Sounds like the OP wants a bar with a 15 mm opening on one edge, in the middle, not at the ends. Sounds like that could easily be made.

Bici Veloce

I tested out a 15 mm crow's foot with a 3/8" ratchet. It works well on both sides regardless of how the slots on the pedal are clocked. My crow's foot is a bit thick. The Park Tool TWB-15 Pedal Wrench Crow Foot looks like it would work perfect.

DaveLeeNC

Thanks for the response. This is a crude representation of what I have in mind. It just seems like something that somebody would have made available. But maybe not.

dave

Chuck M 

Forgive me but I don't see the advantage to the wrench design you wish to have. I'm not saying it wouldn't work, I just don't recognize what you want to accomplish. I do think though if you are having problems that as suggested by someone above, it may be technique. I've been removing pedals for decades with an open end wrench without issue. Even pretty well stuck pedals after using a penetrating oil.

I also would not be surprised to find that the wrench you want exists, I just can't imagine what it would be called. It may be worth a shot to email customer service at Grainger or McMaster-Carr with the sketch you have.

DaveLeeNC

What happened to me is that when the pedal broke free, somehow my head went down hard, hit some part of the bike, and put a gash across the bridge of my nose. So rather than gloves, maybe this

dave

DaveLeeNC

The advantage (to me - someone who only rarely removes pedals) is that I don't see how I could mis-use it (issue being what happens when the pedal brakes free). With some more experimenting I could refine my technique - or I could just buy one of these WhatEverTheyAre devices and not have to practice.

dave

smd4

Dave, if you actually did suffer a facial injury removing a pedal, then you’re doing it WAY wrong. Get a pedal wrench of your choice and learn to use it properly.

soyabean

Not maybe. Definitely not.

Being both an auto mechanic and a bike wrench, I own a behemoth collection of specialty tools and such a silly tool would be difficult to use.

Removing a pedal is relatively straightforward and easy. It's not a lug nut that requires a tire iron.

I manage to remove 100% of all pedals with my Park Tool PW-4 and only needed a cheater bar a handful of times because of twits that overtighened them too much on the install.

If you are hurting yourself you are doing something very wrong and my suggestion is to let your local bike shop deal with it.

DaveLeeNC

FWIW, this was a particularly tough pedal for some reason (probably installed by my LBS but not positive - but probably). I have removed pedals a half dozen times over the last 10 or so years, and this is my first injury (which was trivial, BTW).

From smd4 "Get a pedal wrench of your choice and learn to use it properly." Trying to find a wrench of my choice is exactly what I am doing here. I remember the old 4 way tire irons from the 1960's when I was learning to drive (and change tires). I just found those easier than the one-sided tools common today. And being 73 years old with some non-trivial shoulder problems does not help.

But it sounds like I can end my search for the tool of my choice and learn to deal with the wrenches available. There are techniques that do not involve your arms at all that I should probably try out.

dave

smd4

Positioned correctly, you will use two hands in opposition. You’ll be using body weight, not really your shoulders.

Using a wrench like the one I suggested on the drive side, for example, place the crank arm around 3:00 or 4:00. ideally as close to 3:00 as the wrench will allow. Hold the pedal with your right hand. Place the wrench on the flats, facing left. Ideally close to 9:00. Push down on the wrench with your left hand while balancing the force with your right hand on the pedal. The motion should keep your knuckles down and away from the chainring teeth. Eventually your left hand will loosen the pedal, hopefully without the need for gloves, catchers gear or a cup. See post 17 by Bici Veloce above.

Because you won’t have a way to keep the cranks from turning as you use it, a tool as you suggest, with a hand on each side, will be exceedingly difficult to use. For the same reason you loosen lug nuts with the 4-way tire iron before jacking the wheel off the ground.