un-hexed an Ultegra Br-6600 Centering Screw, anyone know where to get a replacement?
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un-hexed an Ultegra Br-6600 Centering Screw, anyone know where to get a replacement?
As the title implies, I took a hex wrench to the centering screw of an Ultegra 6600 brake caliper, went a bit too tight on the adjustment, and %$#@, the hex ridges turned into a circle.
Problem #1: how do I take the screw out?
Problem #2: Where can I get a replacement, preferably with a phillips head?
Problem #3: Is my hex set's material too hard?
Thanks, this isn't the first time this has happened, last time was with the dust caps on the bottom bracket. Always the little things...
Problem #1: how do I take the screw out?
Problem #2: Where can I get a replacement, preferably with a phillips head?
Problem #3: Is my hex set's material too hard?
Thanks, this isn't the first time this has happened, last time was with the dust caps on the bottom bracket. Always the little things...
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1. Try to find a small Torx driver that's a snug fit in the hex (or former hex) recess. Sometimes these will bite when a hex key won't
2. Once you get the bolt out, take it to a hardware store that sells metric bolts and find a match. I assume it's a relatively short M3 or M4 bolt.
3. Your hex keys aren't too hard but may be too worn. Hex keys in general and small ones in particular get worn, lose their sharp edges and do just what you experienced. They are not a lifetime purchase and should be replace periodically.
4. Actually, there is no reason to use those centering screws for any caliper brake set, particularly double pivot types. You can easily set the pad clearance with the cable adjuster and center the pads by rotating the entire caliper by hand. I've installed and adjusted dozens of caliper brake sets and never once touched those centering screws. Cantilever and V-brakes do require using the centering/tension screws but not road calipers.
2. Once you get the bolt out, take it to a hardware store that sells metric bolts and find a match. I assume it's a relatively short M3 or M4 bolt.
3. Your hex keys aren't too hard but may be too worn. Hex keys in general and small ones in particular get worn, lose their sharp edges and do just what you experienced. They are not a lifetime purchase and should be replace periodically.
4. Actually, there is no reason to use those centering screws for any caliper brake set, particularly double pivot types. You can easily set the pad clearance with the cable adjuster and center the pads by rotating the entire caliper by hand. I've installed and adjusted dozens of caliper brake sets and never once touched those centering screws. Cantilever and V-brakes do require using the centering/tension screws but not road calipers.
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Besides Hillrider's removal ideas, you might be able to saw or Dremel a slot in the screw to remove it, or epoxy a sacrificial driver into the rounded-out slot. A slightly larger fractional-sized driver may also be forced into the recess.
Worn hex keys are common and while cheap to replace, you can often get a little more life out of them by grinding the worn end off flat to expose new, sharper driving edges.
Worn hex keys are common and while cheap to replace, you can often get a little more life out of them by grinding the worn end off flat to expose new, sharper driving edges.
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Actually, there is no reason to use those centering screws for any caliper brake set, particularly double pivot types. You can easily set the pad clearance with the cable adjuster and center the pads by rotating the entire caliper by hand. I've installed and adjusted dozens of caliper brake sets and never once touched those centering screws. Cantilever and V-brakes do require using the centering/tension screws but not road calipers.
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4. Actually, there is no reason to use those centering screws for any caliper brake set, particularly double pivot types. You can easily set the pad clearance with the cable adjuster and center the pads by rotating the entire caliper by hand. I've installed and adjusted dozens of caliper brake sets and never once touched those centering screws. Cantilever and V-brakes do require using the centering/tension screws but not road calipers.
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Otherwise, I've never seen a 2 bolt caliper brake, and even fewer 2 hole forks.
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Assuming you haven't moved the bolt so far as to totally unbalance the brake, just a t leave bad enough alone. Follow the advice above, mount the brake, rotate it to center, tighten and ride.
For future reference, many of these small positioning screws are best adjusted with the load off. That makes them easier to turn and will prevent damaging them.
For future reference, many of these small positioning screws are best adjusted with the load off. That makes them easier to turn and will prevent damaging them.
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Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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As the title implies, I took a hex wrench to the centering screw of an Ultegra 6600 brake caliper, went a bit too tight on the adjustment, and %$#@, the hex ridges turned into a circle.
Problem #1: how do I take the screw out?
Problem #2: Where can I get a replacement, preferably with a phillips head?
Problem #3: Is my hex set's material too hard?
Thanks, this isn't the first time this has happened, last time was with the dust caps on the bottom bracket. Always the little things...
Problem #1: how do I take the screw out?
Problem #2: Where can I get a replacement, preferably with a phillips head?
Problem #3: Is my hex set's material too hard?
Thanks, this isn't the first time this has happened, last time was with the dust caps on the bottom bracket. Always the little things...
Find an old Front der. in the parts box and you have your screws, although a bit too long.... Standard M4 thread,for the record... Ace Hardware has them too... and they will have some new Allen wrenches... i grind mine a fresh nose every now and then.. usually the 5mm is the first ti get too short..
add a dab of blue locktite to the screw or it'll back off...
Last edited by maddog34; 03-28-23 at 10:35 PM.
#9
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4. Actually, there is no reason to use those centering screws for any caliper brake set, particularly double pivot types. You can easily set the pad clearance with the cable adjuster and center the pads by rotating the entire caliper by hand. I've installed and adjusted dozens of caliper brake sets and never once touched those centering screws. Cantilever and V-brakes do require using the centering/tension screws but not road calipers.
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Ten years ago, when this thread was started, there were no direct mount calipers and single mounting bolts were universal. You woke up the Zombie.
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Thanks for that. By now I should have learned not to be surprised by the industries efforts to make the simple and interchangeable less so on either front.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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For better or worse, I should be in the market for a replacement sometime in my remaining years, or at least I hope so. So I expect to be moving into the carbon age, but I'm not sure I'm ready to.
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“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Yeah, those adjusting screws are just a gimmick. I even take the screws outta the derailleurs and set the max with the cables and just feel for the other end of the motion. NBD. Never have to worry about those screws coming out of adjustment.
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