Robvolz 

I’m sure they have a proper name.

yes, screw removed

i could vice grip the bejebus out of them, but that would render them unusable for the next project

as always, much respect for those who offer their expertise to us.

robert

That thing on the down tube. Doohickey cable gadget thing-a-ma-Bob.

non-fixie 

A few taps with a small hammer usually works to get them unstuck. Helped by a small flat blade screwdriver to pry them off, if necessary.

Robvolz 

I will try the hammer. The flat blade driver scares me and the paint.

I also get a little squirt of PB blaster. Let’s see if that helps.

thanks

jdawginsc 

Cut the tubing below and above the offending cable stop, place stop in vise...life vertically to remove the stop, then re-braze tubing into hole between tube ends.

Actually, WD40, pair of pliers. tap and remove. If screwdriver needed, wrap in piece of paper towel.

socalife

Maybe a block of wood agains the part that sticks out then you won't dent that frame! It will pop right off and find some hidden dark corner of your cluttered work space. I have that fork on my own bike.

mpetry912 

if the screw is out, spray in some WD or Blaster and rock it back and forth with a pair of pliers as J Dawg recommended.

ignore the part about cuttng and re-brazing the tube, he was joking

/markp

nlerner

They are just the right size to grab with your teeth and pull hard.

bulgie 

Well I have an M6 tap, so that's what I'd use. Tap the existing hole to M6 (it's already the right size for M6 threads), then thread an M6 screw in. When the end of the screw hits the frame braze-on, it will start acting like a cotterless crank extractor, and pull the alu piece straight off. I think that's the safest way, no prying or hammer-blows that apply force at some angle to the direction you want it to go. It should take about 5 minutes. The threads in the hole will in no way intefere with using it as intended in future.

If you don't have an M6 tap, then this method might not be the best, requiring you to order one and wait for it, or go to a hardware store that sells them. The guy with the penetrating oil and a screwdriver and hammer will probably have his off before you have your tap in-hand. But an M6 tap is a good thing to have for any bike mechanic, even an amateur, shade-tree type. Order M6 x 1, be sure to get high-speed steel (HSS) not carbon steel. Taper or plug style, not bottoming. Order an M5 x 0.8 while you're at it, also super useful on bikes. Buy American-made if you want it to last and you can afford it, but imports are much le$$, and tolerable durability for occasional use. Until you break one off and can't get it out, ruining your part (or bike frame!), then you might wish you'd bought a quality tap...

wschruba

I generally use a plastic "spudger" I made from a broken Pedro's lever. Couple of minutes on a belt sander, and you have a flattened, semi-sharp wedge.

They typically pop off with a bit of provocation.

If you're really worried about it, you can probably fit the nose of a spiral-fluted extractor in there, then give it a tug with the tap wrench on it.

Doesn't look like the first time someone has had difficulty getting that off, though (see rust spots right where it butts on the tube).

SurferRosa

I'm gonna say a piece of inner tube and vise-grips.

Just like we did it back on the farm with tooth removal.

mpetry912 

How about a back spot facer ? that's the ticket

/markp

jamesdak 

I just put the screw back in enough to engage the threads of the housing stop only and gently wiggle the screw to get them to break loose.

RustyJames 

🤣🤣

dedhed

As long as we're ordering I'd also suggest a M10x1.0 for hanger threads and M3x.5 for dropout adjuster screw threads

CliffordK

If you want to grab something with pliers non-marring, then wrap in rubber. A piece of innertube will work.

nlerner

That explains your winning smile.

USAZorro

Shop vac... or...

Tilt frame on side over bowl of water with bosses just touching. Freeze water, then pull on ice to remove.

randyjawa 

Try using the cutting edge of a knife blade to get into the very narrow gap between the shifter guide and the frame. Gently pry(won't hurt to use a little WD40 also). No luck, OK. Warm the piece up with a hair drier (alloy expands faster than steel) in this situation and will aide in releasing the part. You should not have to pry very hard and go from side to side, prying a wee, and I mean WEE bit at a time. Bonne chance,

79pmooney

I got bored reading all the suggestions and was about to skip to the end to say exactly this! (Well, not the dental part. We had a horse but my dad was not allowed to use his tools on her.)

non-fixie 

Excellent suggestion. Thanks for that!

WRT the hammer: my default persuasion tool for cases like these is this plastic hammer I've had in my tool box since way back when. Very useful for dislodging stuck parts without scratching them, such as stem bolts.

Robvolz 

Is it a Tandem fork?

Robvolz 

I sprayed PB Blaster and let it sit over night.

Twisting won't help because it has to come straight off.

I will apply heat with a heat gun tomorrow. If still no go. Its time for vice grips.

Thanks all for the suggestions. Even the silly ones.

RiddleOfSteel

I've faced this conundrum before--always annoying. My best bet has been to take a 3mm allen key and stick the end of it in the gap between the cable stop unit and the shifter boss and gently pry, working it at several angles (essentially what @randyjawa was saying). Pretreating it with lubrication certainly isn't a bad idea, but mechanical persuasion is needed, ultimately. And for the paint's sake, I don't like the prying with a screwdriver option either. Best of luck!

Robvolz 

Today the bits come off, one way or another.

Also thinking a hoop through the threaded cable part (vs the downtube boss part) and using a slide hammer.

Then I will try the Pedro tire remover bars with some blue tape on the frame.

Followed by the old string around the tooth tied to the door knob horse trick.

One way or another….

squirtdad

C4