Cycling on 'rough' and 'bumpy' roads, which approach to take?
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Cycling on 'rough' and 'bumpy' roads, which approach to take?
Hey. As I have been getting better on the bike I have been expanding my route selection and going on a few of the bigger A roads. Only downside I have noticed compared to rural riding is that some of these main roads are so rough and you are bouncing around and your chain flapping around. It's not that the roads have holes in them, they are just like microscopic cobbles and make it a rough and bumpy ride. I also find it tough keeping speed on these kinds of roads, and would actually prefer ascending a smoother road. You are putting your best effort in and can’t break a decent speed.
So, should you try and power through these rough roads, or should you try and take it steady? Does cadence play a role in how easy these roads are?
Thx
_______________
Chris
So, should you try and power through these rough roads, or should you try and take it steady? Does cadence play a role in how easy these roads are?
Thx
_______________
Chris
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#4
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I've seen concrete roads like this where the concrete has been eaten away by acid-rain and only the large peebles about 2-4cm in size are exposed. It's a neat finish if you want it for a driveway, but for a road to ride on, it's punishing.
I'd recommend getting the largest tyres you can fit on your bike and running them at the lowest pressure you can. Just barely enough to avoid pinched flats.
Or you can pick up a used MTB for $50-75 and put 26x2.125 tyres on it at 25-30psi.
I'd recommend getting the largest tyres you can fit on your bike and running them at the lowest pressure you can. Just barely enough to avoid pinched flats.
Or you can pick up a used MTB for $50-75 and put 26x2.125 tyres on it at 25-30psi.
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these are cobbles:
this is a rough road (with "small holes or raised portions where the road has been worn and the top layer has been slowly broken down").
they're two separate things.
just sayin'
this is a rough road (with "small holes or raised portions where the road has been worn and the top layer has been slowly broken down").
they're two separate things.
just sayin'
#6
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microscopic
adj.
a. Too small to be seen by the unaided eye but large enough to be studied under a microscope.
b. Of, relating to, or concerned with a microscope.
adj.
a. Too small to be seen by the unaided eye but large enough to be studied under a microscope.
b. Of, relating to, or concerned with a microscope.
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It seems you forgot to add the photo of you two, the forum security and control guys.
Thanks for clarifying the correct term and posting something that was no help whatsoever. Keep up the great work Smartasses are always such a useful kind.
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If possible I would avoid the roads that are in poor condition, or at least plan routs that only include short sections of these roads.
Rough roads are a pain in the butt... pun intended.
Rough roads are a pain in the butt... pun intended.
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Depending on how long the roads are, you can post up and pedal out of the seat for a bit. If they are a long stretch, I would recommend avoiding them if you can.
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Main Entry: ped·ant
Pronunciation: \ˈpe-dənt\
Function: noun
Etymology: Middle French, from Italian pedante
Date: 1588
1 obsolete : a male schoolteacher
2 a : one who makes a show of knowledge b : one who is unimaginative or who unduly emphasizes minutiae in the presentation or use of knowledge c : a formalist or precisionist in teaching
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Did you see how far I strayed off the question while staying on topic?
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^ This. Try something like the Vittoria Open Pave's - 24mm clincher version of the tubs that many use on the cobbles. They only come in green. It ain't easy being green.
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Sounds like you are talking about chip seal paving. Try to find smoother roads if it bothers you.
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They've been chip sealing roads out here too. I'm okay with it, for 10 miles and no more. It just wears on me.
I'm hoping that this winter will take care of it on the roads. I assume the shoulders will never improve.
I'm hoping that this winter will take care of it on the roads. I assume the shoulders will never improve.
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FTFY. There's a section of road here where I'm struggling on a slight downhill in the middle of my small chainring, then I turn onto the main road and suddenly I'm flying in the middle of my large chainring on a slight uphill. That or I have serious motivation issues on the first road somehow.
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Ride harder...sheesh it's not rocket science.
Lose the death grip on the bars...ride lightly...keep elbows bent...
Lose the death grip on the bars...ride lightly...keep elbows bent...
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This road tuns into gravel and I can only climb a bit from where the chip seal ends. I walk up from where I sink to the little driveway beneath the first house and then finish the climb most days. A sinking and tractionless 23 mm tire on a 16% grade is tough. This one of the finger climbs I do off of Loma Larga Rd in Corrales. A test of my bike handling skills for sure.
Last edited by logdrum; 09-26-09 at 11:36 PM.
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Get a cross bike and fill it up to 32 tires with 70 lbs of air. No issues
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On some roads, you just need to push through it. Siu and botto's picture are very common for all roads where I'm at. But at the same time, I've met with rougher. Once I vibrated (and I do mean that - very consistently bumpy) down about 3 miles worth of road. I don't have a picture of it (too bad Google doesn't either), but let's just say I won't be going that way any time soon.
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correct. not enough heavy traffic on the shoulders to wear the gravel smooth. oh and you wouldn't like riding here then, chip-seal is the predominate sealed surface. you get used to it. bigger tyres at slightly lower pressures help.
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