Frozen Aluminum Headset Lockut
12-24-23, 01:07 AM
#26
Droid on a mission
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Palm Coast, FL
Posts: 1,005
Bikes: Diamondback Wildwood Classic
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 317 Post(s)
Liked 280 Times
in
195 Posts
As noted by others.
IF the wedge is free and the stem still won't move, remove the wheel and dolly the underside of the crown on the end of a 2x4, or other pedestal, and use a heavy mallet to drive the stem into the fork. Once it moves 1mm or so, it should be free enough to twist and work off. (oil well so twisting doesn't heat things up and make it worse)
BTW- the key to hammering in this application is to deliver a single solid blow to the rigidly supported stem/fork, rather than repeated blows.
Deal with the lockout after the stem is out because odds are it's seized to the stem rather than the fork.
Spoiler
BTW- the key to hammering in this application is to deliver a single solid blow to the rigidly supported stem/fork, rather than repeated blows.
Deal with the lockout after the stem is out because odds are it's seized to the stem rather than the fork.
__________________
JoeTBM (The Bike Man) - I'm a black & white type of guy, the only gray in my life is the hair on my head
www.TheBikeMenOfFlaglerCounty.com
JoeTBM (The Bike Man) - I'm a black & white type of guy, the only gray in my life is the hair on my head
www.TheBikeMenOfFlaglerCounty.com 
12-24-23, 01:18 AM
#27
Droid on a mission
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Palm Coast, FL
Posts: 1,005
Bikes: Diamondback Wildwood Classic
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 317 Post(s)
Liked 280 Times
in
195 Posts
Interesting tool but cannot seem to locate a vendor for Stronglight tools; do you know of one? Thanks
__________________
JoeTBM (The Bike Man) - I'm a black & white type of guy, the only gray in my life is the hair on my head
www.TheBikeMenOfFlaglerCounty.com
JoeTBM (The Bike Man) - I'm a black & white type of guy, the only gray in my life is the hair on my head
www.TheBikeMenOfFlaglerCounty.com
12-24-23, 01:28 AM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,729
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5793 Post(s)
Liked 2,593 Times
in
1,437 Posts
You might copy the photo and repost here on the classic/vintage sub-forum.
FWIW, I'm not a fan. These wrenches are relatively thin, and prone to slip off the flats. I prefer commercial open end or split box wrenches.
Likes For FBinNY:
12-24-23, 12:10 PM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,306
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1143 Post(s)
Liked 1,755 Times
in
966 Posts
The last stuck stem I used a J-clamp on the forkcrown while straddling the downtube to secured, then I used a kroil, and torchedon the stem and then wicked grease into the inside, and was able to wank it back to break the corrosive bond.
This would also work with you locknut, but at your instance I actually would try turning the cup down from the locknut. I could possibly be using opposing wrenching on the locknut and cup.
I'll do the reverse to install as well. Where I install the cup and the locknut a hard finger tight and wrench the cup up to the locknut.
This would also work with you locknut, but at your instance I actually would try turning the cup down from the locknut. I could possibly be using opposing wrenching on the locknut and cup.
I'll do the reverse to install as well. Where I install the cup and the locknut a hard finger tight and wrench the cup up to the locknut.
Likes For Mr. 66:
12-25-23, 04:13 AM
#30
Droid on a mission
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Palm Coast, FL
Posts: 1,005
Bikes: Diamondback Wildwood Classic
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 317 Post(s)
Liked 280 Times
in
195 Posts
These are we no longer made. You need to go to ebay or sites that specialize in classic stuff.
You might copy the photo and repost here on the classic/vintage sub-forum.
FWIW, I'm not a fan. These wrenches are relatively thin, and prone to slip off the flats. I prefer commercial open end or split box wrenches.
You might copy the photo and repost here on the classic/vintage sub-forum.
FWIW, I'm not a fan. These wrenches are relatively thin, and prone to slip off the flats. I prefer commercial open end or split box wrenches.
Just found our 3rd copy of a Park Tool MQ-1
We love this tool for working on kids bikes as it has both a 15mm & 17mm socket, we add a 14mm socket to the 3/8" drive tip. wish we could find more of them.
__________________
JoeTBM (The Bike Man) - I'm a black & white type of guy, the only gray in my life is the hair on my head
www.TheBikeMenOfFlaglerCounty.com
JoeTBM (The Bike Man) - I'm a black & white type of guy, the only gray in my life is the hair on my head
www.TheBikeMenOfFlaglerCounty.com
12-25-23, 08:54 AM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 942
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 380 Post(s)
Liked 541 Times
in
286 Posts
Liquid Wrench and a hairdryer to heat the stem and get the LW into the joint and then more LW while it's still hot. Use the rubber hammer to bash the stem sideways in a circle, not up or down. Has never failed me
Likes For Steel Charlie:
12-25-23, 05:08 PM
#32
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2023
Location: Fountain Hills, AZ
Posts: 189
Bikes: 1995 Trek 990 (configured for road), Hotrodded Dahon folder, Trek 1400 (not ridden any more), Iron Horse 3.0 homebrew e-bike, 1984 Trek 770 (trying to resurrect)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 89 Post(s)
Liked 131 Times
in
80 Posts
Jay,
A mix of 50% acetone and 50% auto trans fluid will be the best to get some lubrication in the seized parts and perhaps loosen them enough to remove them. It takes a couple of days for the mix to penetrate the parts. Turn the bike upside down and plug the stem bolt hole and then put enough in the steerer tube to cover the stem so gravity can do it's thing. Same thing for the locknut after getting the stem free. HTH, Smiles, MH
A mix of 50% acetone and 50% auto trans fluid will be the best to get some lubrication in the seized parts and perhaps loosen them enough to remove them. It takes a couple of days for the mix to penetrate the parts. Turn the bike upside down and plug the stem bolt hole and then put enough in the steerer tube to cover the stem so gravity can do it's thing. Same thing for the locknut after getting the stem free. HTH, Smiles, MH
Thanks
[Update an hour or so later]
So I did some research and confirmed that acetone is what is commonly recommended. I also found that most situations refer to use with steel on steel rust. With aluminum involved, it's hard to evaluate claims with likelihood to help in this situation. In digging, I ran across this video which was the most objective evaluation that I found. Of course, it has the "steel on steel ain't what I'm dealing with" problem. Just adding this info for posterity.
Last edited by Jay Turberville; 12-25-23 at 06:21 PM. Reason: Update response
Likes For Jay Turberville:
