Reversed bottom bracket on aluminum bike
04-21-21, 06:17 PM
#1
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Reversed bottom bracket on aluminum bike
So...a cheap Kona I got for the bicycle giveaway (Lanai aluminum frame) had a wired shut front derailleur (no lie...they used the cable to to keep it mushed together, and converted it to a 1X8. Problem is, they installed the bottom bracket backwards, thus reversing the threads on either side.
You cannot recut threads in an alloy bottom bracket, correct? Especially if it was basically screwed all of the way in?
You cannot recut threads in an alloy bottom bracket, correct? Especially if it was basically screwed all of the way in?
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
04-21-21, 06:20 PM
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I predict a threadless repair BB is in your future.
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04-21-21, 06:24 PM
#3
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UGH...I was hoping not to spend much of my limited self funds to remake it...
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04-21-21, 06:31 PM
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I would just run it, if the bearings are still good. If it's in need of replacement, you can always try screwing one in the correct way and see how it goes. I once encountered an old Trek where someone had screwed cups in the wrong way once, and you could screw them in from either side. Pretty weird, but everything stayed put and it was ridden in a couple long tours.
If neither of those solutions work, you can get it tapped to Italian, which is a smidge bigger. Framebuilders and some bigger/older shops ought to have BB taps. Because it's aluminum, this will be easy and won't wear out anyone's taps. I have an Italian threaded Campy Chorus BB with a 112mm axle, that you can have for the price of postage if you go this route. Bear in mind, of course, that you'll probably need loctite on the right side because Italian is right-hand threaded on both sides!
If neither of those solutions work, you can get it tapped to Italian, which is a smidge bigger. Framebuilders and some bigger/older shops ought to have BB taps. Because it's aluminum, this will be easy and won't wear out anyone's taps. I have an Italian threaded Campy Chorus BB with a 112mm axle, that you can have for the price of postage if you go this route. Bear in mind, of course, that you'll probably need loctite on the right side because Italian is right-hand threaded on both sides!
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04-21-21, 06:43 PM
#5
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I would just run it, if the bearings are still good. If it's in need of replacement, you can always try screwing one in the correct way and see how it goes. I once encountered an old Trek where someone had screwed cups in the wrong way once, and you could screw them in from either side. Pretty weird, but everything stayed put and it was ridden in a couple long tours.
If neither of those solutions work, you can get it tapped to Italian, which is a smidge bigger. Framebuilders and some bigger/older shops ought to have BB taps. Because it's aluminum, this will be easy and won't wear out anyone's taps. I have an Italian threaded Campy Chorus BB with a 112mm axle, that you can have for the price of postage if you go this route. Bear in mind, of course, that you'll probably need loctite on the right side because Italian is right-hand threaded on both sides!
If neither of those solutions work, you can get it tapped to Italian, which is a smidge bigger. Framebuilders and some bigger/older shops ought to have BB taps. Because it's aluminum, this will be easy and won't wear out anyone's taps. I have an Italian threaded Campy Chorus BB with a 112mm axle, that you can have for the price of postage if you go this route. Bear in mind, of course, that you'll probably need loctite on the right side because Italian is right-hand threaded on both sides!
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
04-21-21, 07:02 PM
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No, you'll have two sets of damaged threads that way. I'd be concerned about damaging the bb threads more.
Install a set of cups in the frame with good threads, slowly working them in and out until you're satisfied with the level of resistance. If the threads on the existing BB aren't flattened, I'd give it a shot.
Install a set of cups in the frame with good threads, slowly working them in and out until you're satisfied with the level of resistance. If the threads on the existing BB aren't flattened, I'd give it a shot.
04-21-21, 07:12 PM
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04-22-21, 08:17 AM
#8
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Was able to recut the DS cup threads to create a snug aligned fit. THe NDS side is not cooperating. It keeps starting crooked. Tried another NDS steel cup to try to cut it... Hmm...
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
04-22-21, 08:42 AM
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It definitely was wrongly installed...taking it out gave that faint metal smell when bad threads are exposed.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
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04-23-21, 07:56 AM
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That's the risk with the method. You'll attempt to correct it and mash the cut threads back into a useful form, but end up destroying the trace that was left by cross-threading. Before I call it quits, I'd try to use the NDS lock ring to align the cup with the BB shell face, try to locate the start of the correct thread, and slowly drive the cup in to reform the threads. It'll be slow going for sure, but it's a last-ditch save before using a threadless repair BB or re-tapping to the Italian standard.
Last edited by Unca_Sam; 04-23-21 at 07:58 AM. Reason: clarity
04-23-21, 09:33 AM
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That's the risk with the method. You'll attempt to correct it and mash the cut threads back into a useful form, but end up destroying the trace that was left by cross-threading. Before I call it quits, I'd try to use the NDS lock ring to align the cup with the BB shell face, try to locate the start of the correct thread, and slowly drive the cup in to reform the threads. It'll be slow going for sure, but it's a last-ditch save before using a threadless repair BB or re-tapping to the Italian standard.
The next person, if any, who tries to service it will have an easier time I think. And the kid who gets this one will appreciate it nonetheless...
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
04-23-21, 10:55 AM
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That's great it sounds like you have both cups threaded in properly(?).
I generally use a hammer to true any cup that starts taking a crooked line into the frame. I tap it straight, turn it a little and re-check for straightness, repeating as necessary.
I had a PX10 where the fixed cup could almost be threaded fully in by hand either straight or crooked. Loose-fitting thread tolerances and a history of at least one misaligned install allowed this, yet I did achieve a good bit of tightening torque as needed to retain the right-hand-threaded driveside cup!
I generally use a hammer to true any cup that starts taking a crooked line into the frame. I tap it straight, turn it a little and re-check for straightness, repeating as necessary.
I had a PX10 where the fixed cup could almost be threaded fully in by hand either straight or crooked. Loose-fitting thread tolerances and a history of at least one misaligned install allowed this, yet I did achieve a good bit of tightening torque as needed to retain the right-hand-threaded driveside cup!
04-23-21, 11:22 AM
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That is actually what I did yesterday. The NDS cup was a bear to get aligned and very slow going. I used some 3 in 1 oil to help the process along after thoroughly greasing both sets of threads...Best I could do. There is ever so slight amount of play in the spindle, but the cups are secure. Apparently the cartridge did not have a lock ring and was an after thought by the previous owner. Tightening it to no play severely impact spin, so I compromised.
The next person, if any, who tries to service it will have an easier time I think. And the kid who gets this one will appreciate it nonetheless...
The next person, if any, who tries to service it will have an easier time I think. And the kid who gets this one will appreciate it nonetheless...
04-23-21, 12:07 PM
#15
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Loosely termed!
I should have done this method
I generally use a hammer to true any cup that starts taking a crooked line into the frame. I tap it straight, turn it a little and re-check for straightness, repeating as necessary.
I had a PX10 where the fixed cup could almost be threaded fully in by hand either straight or crooked. Loose-fitting thread tolerances and a history of at least one misaligned install allowed this, yet I did achieve a good bit of tightening torque as needed to retain the right-hand-threaded driveside cup!
I had a PX10 where the fixed cup could almost be threaded fully in by hand either straight or crooked. Loose-fitting thread tolerances and a history of at least one misaligned install allowed this, yet I did achieve a good bit of tightening torque as needed to retain the right-hand-threaded driveside cup!
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
04-23-21, 12:08 PM
#16
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Exactly! I don't mind taking responsibility for my copious errors...I don't want to get the blame for others'~!
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
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