Clunker 100 Challenge COVID 2.0 edition #7
#151
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I know this isn’t quite a clunker, but at $40, I think I can keep it under $100, but though I have never really searched out Japanese bikes, this might complete the international pantheon...sort of excited to see how it rolls...
Yellow paint is polishing up nicely...
A bit of patina—rust
Luckily I got a $24 deal on a pair of close out Zaffiros a few months back...
I am trying to find where I bought this, but the Turbo isn’t going to work...I think it was around $14-15 shipped.
Dislodged rail and bent out of shape...
Yellow paint is polishing up nicely...
A bit of patina—rust
Luckily I got a $24 deal on a pair of close out Zaffiros a few months back...
I am trying to find where I bought this, but the Turbo isn’t going to work...I think it was around $14-15 shipped.
Dislodged rail and bent out of shape...
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#152
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i have done about 7.5km on this thing sofar.. but the rear wheel is kind of sketchy as hek, i basically need to get both the front and rear wheels adjusted (if that's the word) as the rear is crooked and the front is making "tink" noises once in a while ... but i still managed to do a bit of riding with out dying. I am looking forward to finishing the maintenance so i can figure out how much i can pretty it up. I gotta accessorize lol
Tomorrow i should clean up the shifter and the handle bar base/nut, and then i think the only rust will be in the paint..which im not gonna do anything about, save an anti-rust.
Tomorrow i should clean up the shifter and the handle bar base/nut, and then i think the only rust will be in the paint..which im not gonna do anything about, save an anti-rust.
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So I came up with a concept for the $35 low-end Claridge I picked up for this contest. Here are my as-found pics for those who don’t want to scroll back:
The vaguely English-sounding name and headbadge logo called to mind a classic UK-treatment. I acquired these tools (well, the white was left over from a previous project):
And decided that a barber pole seat tube, matching head tube, “chromed” ends and fork crown would class things up a bit:
Masked for painting:
White coat applied:
Masked the rear end for “chroming,” including sanding off the “12-speed” decals that were on each chainstay: don’t want to pin myself in!
And the result:
I’ll leave it in the sun for a couple of days to cure while I finalize the build plans (biggest decision is whether to go single speed or multi-geared).
The vaguely English-sounding name and headbadge logo called to mind a classic UK-treatment. I acquired these tools (well, the white was left over from a previous project):
And decided that a barber pole seat tube, matching head tube, “chromed” ends and fork crown would class things up a bit:
Masked for painting:
White coat applied:
Masked the rear end for “chroming,” including sanding off the “12-speed” decals that were on each chainstay: don’t want to pin myself in!
And the result:
I’ll leave it in the sun for a couple of days to cure while I finalize the build plans (biggest decision is whether to go single speed or multi-geared).
Last edited by nlerner; 05-13-21 at 05:02 AM.
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I haven't gotten to the paint stage yet with the Takara, but I'm moving in that direction, CintriStrip works like magic on paint over chrome.
Also in preparation for painting, I popped off the head badge. To my amusement, there was a near perfect ghost image of the head badge left in dirt below it.
@Drillium Dude was kind enough to post some pics from the infamous 1975 Takara catalog. Hopefully he won't mind my sharing a couple here. The catalog details have got me thinking that the bike I'm working on is a 1976 "Model 8". The 1975 Model 8 had mostly the same components and, like my Takara, chrome socks with SunTour dropouts and an integrated derailleur hanger (not a common feature on Takaras).
The biggest difference between this and mine is that the '75 model is made with chromoly steel while mine is "KCL double butted hi tension" whatever that is. I also found this thread, which is definitely a '75 Model 8: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-commuter.html And this review: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...del-732-a.html
Takara aficionados will also appreciate that this is the model that Takara Steve is riding in this classic cover pic from the 1975 catalog.
Meanwhile, I've been cleaning up some of the bits and pieces. The headset is absolute bling! It had some rusty discoloration, but a soak in the EvapoRust spa took care of that.
I got similar results with the pedals. Here's one after and one before.
The cover of the original saddle (on the left below) is cracking badly, so I dug up the stock saddle from the Nishiki that I refreshed in the last edition of the Clunker challenge (on the right). I had decided that it was too far gone for the Nishiki, but compared to the Takara saddle it's mint.
The underside pics show the problems with the Nishiki saddle.
So, the removable bits here are getting soaked in EvapoRust too.
There's too much flaking of the chrome plating for this to come out looking nice, but maybe with some of that shiny paint @nlerner used.... Or maybe just basic primer. Not much of the rail shows anyway.
Also in preparation for painting, I popped off the head badge. To my amusement, there was a near perfect ghost image of the head badge left in dirt below it.
@Drillium Dude was kind enough to post some pics from the infamous 1975 Takara catalog. Hopefully he won't mind my sharing a couple here. The catalog details have got me thinking that the bike I'm working on is a 1976 "Model 8". The 1975 Model 8 had mostly the same components and, like my Takara, chrome socks with SunTour dropouts and an integrated derailleur hanger (not a common feature on Takaras).
The biggest difference between this and mine is that the '75 model is made with chromoly steel while mine is "KCL double butted hi tension" whatever that is. I also found this thread, which is definitely a '75 Model 8: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-commuter.html And this review: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...del-732-a.html
Takara aficionados will also appreciate that this is the model that Takara Steve is riding in this classic cover pic from the 1975 catalog.
Meanwhile, I've been cleaning up some of the bits and pieces. The headset is absolute bling! It had some rusty discoloration, but a soak in the EvapoRust spa took care of that.
I got similar results with the pedals. Here's one after and one before.
The cover of the original saddle (on the left below) is cracking badly, so I dug up the stock saddle from the Nishiki that I refreshed in the last edition of the Clunker challenge (on the right). I had decided that it was too far gone for the Nishiki, but compared to the Takara saddle it's mint.
The underside pics show the problems with the Nishiki saddle.
So, the removable bits here are getting soaked in EvapoRust too.
There's too much flaking of the chrome plating for this to come out looking nice, but maybe with some of that shiny paint @nlerner used.... Or maybe just basic primer. Not much of the rail shows anyway.
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#157
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morri869 , Nice find. The problem with these tires is not general availability it is availability right now. Schalbe makes a number of different tires in this size as well as several other brands, but since the pandemic, there has been a shortage of all bicycle related parts. I think the tire companies are working on the more popular sizes first. The other constraint that you may have is that you may not want to spend the money for Schalbe tires. I found these at Pep Boys:
26" x 1-3/8" tires
I don't like Kevlar beads on old rims, but they are probably ok.
Your tires look good from the what I can see of them. You may not even need tires. Just get that Sturmey-Archer freed up. Can you pedal it in 3rd gear? Is the shifter moving?
26" x 1-3/8" tires
I don't like Kevlar beads on old rims, but they are probably ok.
Your tires look good from the what I can see of them. You may not even need tires. Just get that Sturmey-Archer freed up. Can you pedal it in 3rd gear? Is the shifter moving?
#158
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morri869 , Nice find. The problem with these tires is not general availability it is availability right now. Schalbe makes a number of different tires in this size as well as several other brands, but since the pandemic, there has been a shortage of all bicycle related parts. I think the tire companies are working on the more popular sizes first. The other constraint that you may have is that you may not want to spend the money for Schalbe tires. I found these at Pep Boys:
26" x 1-3/8" tires
I don't like Kevlar beads on old rims, but they are probably ok.
Your tires look good from the what I can see of them. You may not even need tires. Just get that Sturmey-Archer freed up. Can you pedal it in 3rd gear? Is the shifter moving?
26" x 1-3/8" tires
I don't like Kevlar beads on old rims, but they are probably ok.
Your tires look good from the what I can see of them. You may not even need tires. Just get that Sturmey-Archer freed up. Can you pedal it in 3rd gear? Is the shifter moving?
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@nlerner That came out pretty nice! How does the "chrome" paint look in person? In the pictures it seems like it would be decent from a few feet away. I'm always afraid products like that will come out looking comical. This is a great project to try it out on.
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Andy, I’d say that finish looks like chrome from six feet away and maybe even a bit cloudy chrome from 3 feet. I actually sprayed that reflector/cable stop bracket, too, as the original cheap metal was weirdly discolored. Here are a couple of comparison pics with that ‘74 Raleigh Intl frameset that was previously in your possession. The paint is not nearly as shiny as the real thing
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I was able to get the shifting moving. A few YouTube videos and some oil later and everything was moving good. I had to pull the shift indicator off and drop some oil in the axle to get it to loosen up a bit.
The front tire is pretty crispy, which isn't helped by the rusting front rim. But I put on 11 km this morning and everything held up ok. I even did some dirt path riding on some of the trails by our local river. All in all it was a fun ride, and it was nice to be upright and going at a slower pace to enjoy it all!
Initial thoughts: the saddle is way less comfortable than it would lead you to believe. Also the freewheeling action sometimes spins out or loses clutch and makes a horrible noise, I'm not sure. Many squeaks and creaks but I think the Sports might just make it in this condition also, dirt paths through the woods are awesome on this!
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Today I started wrapping the handlebar with used tape.. “rare vintage handlebar wrap” in a “rare ivory color.” This is the third bike this has been on. There’s no adhesive left so it’s a tight wrap to secure.
Last edited by tyler_fred; 05-14-21 at 11:04 AM.
#163
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You're welcome.
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I thought I was the only one reusing bar tape. It's one of my "Bin of Regrets" items. For some reason, if it doesn't come to pieces when I remove it I feel the need to keep it. It definitely helps with the budget in Clunker Challenge builds! Is there anything with less intrinsic value than previously used bar tape?
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I'm greatly reassured to know I am not alone in keeping old bar tape - but does anyone else keep it in the same bin as ratty tubulars and Pletscher racks?
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Who throws anything away? Lol. Some of the rusty, scraped, stuff I have way out performs the low end new stuff on bikes. I have no problem rotating tape on my bikes to cover the ratty edges.
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So you're saying I might have a use for the rusty SunTour Honor rear derailleur in my parts bin someday?
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Wait...you aren’t using that now...?
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
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I stripped the paint off the Takara so I could get a better look at the rust!
Honestly, it's a bit concerning how much rust survived the paint removal process. I don't even want to think about how the inside of the tubes must look. I did get a small pile of rust dumping out of the frame after I removed the parts. Luckily, these are not thin tubes.
The fork, I have to say, is stunning.
It's a bit wacky how nice the paint on the steerer is. I mean, a bit of overspray is inevitable, but they seem to have actually masked off the threads and painted the entire steerer with the same care the rest of the frame got. I'm a bit mystified as to how the paint on the steerer got chipped, but the gloss is amazing. I'm going to keep paint on the steerer and leave a note in sharpie to some future owner, explaining that this was what the original paint looked like.
Honestly, it's a bit concerning how much rust survived the paint removal process. I don't even want to think about how the inside of the tubes must look. I did get a small pile of rust dumping out of the frame after I removed the parts. Luckily, these are not thin tubes.
The fork, I have to say, is stunning.
It's a bit wacky how nice the paint on the steerer is. I mean, a bit of overspray is inevitable, but they seem to have actually masked off the threads and painted the entire steerer with the same care the rest of the frame got. I'm a bit mystified as to how the paint on the steerer got chipped, but the gloss is amazing. I'm going to keep paint on the steerer and leave a note in sharpie to some future owner, explaining that this was what the original paint looked like.
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@gugie, on a scale of "Friday afternoon at the Raleigh factory" to "Peter Weigle" how would you rate this braze work?
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Last edited by gugie; 05-14-21 at 08:51 PM.
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Speaking of rust...
Bottom bracket soak for Bumblebina...
Top tub evaporust gel less successful....
Will probably have to hit it again.
Top tub evaporust gel less successful....
Will probably have to hit it again.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
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Close ups of the Takara's private parts. (I've cleaned up the rust and left over paint since taking these pictures.)
@gugie, on a scale of "Friday afternoon at the Raleigh factory" to "Peter Weigle" how would you rate this braze work?
@gugie, on a scale of "Friday afternoon at the Raleigh factory" to "Peter Weigle" how would you rate this braze work?
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wish there was a super clunker available close and not estimated over 100...thus the choice of the Nishiki...
Most of the clunkers here are beach cruisers..not even vintage...and priced not good.
You guys seem to have an everlasting supply of clunker possibilities!
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
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I second that! Only about 60 hours of work in it!
wish there was a super clunker available close and not estimated over 100...thus the choice of the Nishiki...
Most of the clunkers here are beach cruisers..not even vintage...and priced not good.
You guys seem to have an everlasting supply of clunker possibilities!
wish there was a super clunker available close and not estimated over 100...thus the choice of the Nishiki...
Most of the clunkers here are beach cruisers..not even vintage...and priced not good.
You guys seem to have an everlasting supply of clunker possibilities!
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