Wheel Not Turning Evenly
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Wheel Not Turning Evenly
Just reinstalled my rear wheel, and noticed that it's not turning evenly. At one point, it's touching the frame. At almost the opposite point it's a few mm away from the frame (but still not centered). Pretty sure it wasn't doing that before and that I put it back on correctly. What could be the issue?
UPDATE: It seems there are two issues: 1) the wheel is not centered in the frame and 2) there is one spot where it's hitting, but the rest of the wheel is running parallel. Initially I thought the wheel was at an angle or something. But it seems to be in straight, but there's one spot that's hitting. Here's a video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kiv069hjmt...75230.mp4?dl=0
Touching frame
Not touching frame
UPDATE: It seems there are two issues: 1) the wheel is not centered in the frame and 2) there is one spot where it's hitting, but the rest of the wheel is running parallel. Initially I thought the wheel was at an angle or something. But it seems to be in straight, but there's one spot that's hitting. Here's a video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kiv069hjmt...75230.mp4?dl=0
Touching frame
Not touching frame
Last edited by enargins; 08-15-22 at 07:18 AM.
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What is all the wiring for?
I this a motorized wheel?
Are there anti-rotation washers on the axle?
I this a motorized wheel?
Are there anti-rotation washers on the axle?
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I noticed when I was reinstalling the wheel that one of the torque washers was on the inside of the frame, instead of being over the dropout, as it should have been. This was on the side that's away from the tire.
When I secured the nuts, it pulled the frame in, so that that torque washer was over the dropout and the tab was sitting in the slot. But it should have been sitting in the slot initially, not just when I tightened the nut. So perhaps the frame is bent?
Here's an image that shows the torque washer and how they sit in the dropouts.
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Well that was the fastest reply I think I have ever had on this forum.
I seriously doubt you bent the frames from tightening the nuts.
I would remove and reinstall the wheel properly.
I seriously doubt you bent the frames from tightening the nuts.
I would remove and reinstall the wheel properly.
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I'm happy to try reinstalling the wheel. But not sure what I would do differently.
I just added some pictures to the post that show the dropouts and the torque washers. Let me know if you see anything that looks off to you.
Thanks!
I just added some pictures to the post that show the dropouts and the torque washers. Let me know if you see anything that looks off to you.
Thanks!
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Unless there is something seriously wrong with the bearings, a wobble at the rim will mean the wheel is out of true.
With some practice, and spoke wrenches, you could fix it yourself, or take it to a shop.
If the rim is true, but the tire wobbles, check how it is installed on the rim.
With some practice, and spoke wrenches, you could fix it yourself, or take it to a shop.
If the rim is true, but the tire wobbles, check how it is installed on the rim.
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I just updated the post with a video, which allowed me to look at the situation more closely. Initially, I thought the wheel was not straight in the frame. But it seems it is straight (though it is off-center). But there is one spot where it's hitting the frame, though the rest of the wheel is running parallel. Here's the video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kiv069hjmt...75230.mp4?dl=0
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Unless there is something seriously wrong with the bearings, a wobble at the rim will mean the wheel is out of true.
With some practice, and spoke wrenches, you could fix it yourself, or take it to a shop.
If the rim is true, but the tire wobbles, check how it is installed on the rim.
With some practice, and spoke wrenches, you could fix it yourself, or take it to a shop.
If the rim is true, but the tire wobbles, check how it is installed on the rim.
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I'd also lean toward your wheel not being true. Also, on a regular bike with a freewheel I might wonder if the axle is broken.
Also wondering if that tire is too big for the bike. Is that the original tire the bike manufacturer put on it? In the video it just looks really close to the crotch of the stays. So any insignificant amount of the wheel being out of true will be noticed more. But possibly just the camera angle.
Also wondering if that tire is too big for the bike. Is that the original tire the bike manufacturer put on it? In the video it just looks really close to the crotch of the stays. So any insignificant amount of the wheel being out of true will be noticed more. But possibly just the camera angle.
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My guess is the wheel is still not mounted correctly and you already had a slightly out of true wheel that you didn't notice or, as mentioned, the tire isn't mounted perfectly even. If the wheel is not centered, you probably have some spacers or ?? that aren't in the correct order. If it was like that before you took the wheel off there would be some evidence of rubbing/wear at the place where it's rubbing now. Their site lists an "online help site". Rad Service | Rad Power Bikes and more specifically "rear wheel removal guide" Tire Performance and Replacement Information – Rad Power Bikes Help Center (zendesk.com)
But, yes, the wheel was off-center before I changed the tube. But it wasn't rubbing against the frame. So I guess it's just a tire mounting issue. Will deflate and try again.
As for the wheel being off-center, I wonder if it's the frame itself that needs to be adjusted? But it's an aluminum frame, so not sure it can be.
Of course, I could always just add a washer to the near side to push the wheel over a bit. Do you see any issue with that?
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I'd also lean toward your wheel not being true. Also, on a regular bike with a freewheel I might wonder if the axle is broken.
Also wondering if that tire is too big for the bike. Is that the original tire the bike manufacturer put on it? In the video it just looks really close to the crotch of the stays. So any insignificant amount of the wheel being out of true will be noticed more. But possibly just the camera angle.
Also wondering if that tire is too big for the bike. Is that the original tire the bike manufacturer put on it? In the video it just looks really close to the crotch of the stays. So any insignificant amount of the wheel being out of true will be noticed more. But possibly just the camera angle.
No, not the original tire. It is very close to the stays. But if you look at the far side in the video you'll see there's lots of room. The issue is that it's off-center.
As I noted in another reply, I might just add a washer to the near side to move the wheel over. Do you see any issue with that, in terms of causing other problems?
Thanks!
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Yes, I followed the rear wheel removal guide studiously, to make sure I got all the pieces back in place correctly. Am certain I'm not missing a spacer.
But, yes, the wheel was off-center before I changed the tube. But it wasn't rubbing against the frame. So I guess it's just a tire mounting issue. Will deflate and try again.
As for the wheel being off-center, I wonder if it's the frame itself that needs to be adjusted? But it's an aluminum frame, so not sure it can be.
Of course, I could always just add a washer to the near side to push the wheel over a bit. Do you see any issue with that?
But, yes, the wheel was off-center before I changed the tube. But it wasn't rubbing against the frame. So I guess it's just a tire mounting issue. Will deflate and try again.
As for the wheel being off-center, I wonder if it's the frame itself that needs to be adjusted? But it's an aluminum frame, so not sure it can be.
Of course, I could always just add a washer to the near side to push the wheel over a bit. Do you see any issue with that?
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The wheel revolves around a center axis. So as long as that is fixed. Which your axle should be unless loose or broken, then any deviation is either the wheel out of true or the tire itself is wonky.
If you have spacers on your axle that you can swap to the other side to give better clearance for tire and rim, then that's acceptable to me. However if your dropouts when the skewer or axle nuts are loose has a space between it and your hub's locknuts or other existing spacers, then that's probably a problem. You have the wrong hub or missing a spacer. to give you the correct OLD for the hub.
Still, something looks un-true. So I'd resolve that no matter how tiny the amount. Most shops will true a wheel for pocket change if nothing special is needed or that the tensions aren't completely wonky requiring everything to be loosened and re-tensioned.
If you have spacers on your axle that you can swap to the other side to give better clearance for tire and rim, then that's acceptable to me. However if your dropouts when the skewer or axle nuts are loose has a space between it and your hub's locknuts or other existing spacers, then that's probably a problem. You have the wrong hub or missing a spacer. to give you the correct OLD for the hub.
Still, something looks un-true. So I'd resolve that no matter how tiny the amount. Most shops will true a wheel for pocket change if nothing special is needed or that the tensions aren't completely wonky requiring everything to be loosened and re-tensioned.
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