What do endurance bikes accomplish for you?
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And there's where the other 9mm of reach comes from. 5mm longer TT, 1.6 degree steeper head angle. I suspect even our insensitive friend here could feel that difference.
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That's all they are and that all they should be seen as.
Endurance bikes don't have a uniformed geometry across brands so some will be more aggressive than others. Some will be as aggressive as another brand's race geometry.
So yeah, they are accomplishing something since they offer geometry that is typically less aggressive.
I have never thoughtnof endurance bikes as a general category and viewed them as 'marketing fear'. That's laughable.
Also, I would not say endurance bikes have high trail in general. You called the forks high trail, but a fork isn't what creates rrai, it is 1 of 3 variables to determine trail.
Regardless, I don't know of any endurance road bikes that have high trail. They often have 2-8mm more trail than the same brand's performance road bike, but trail isn't high. It will typically be under 70mm still.
Heck, Domane trail is usually 59-60mm for all but the smallest sizes(which should be ignored when discussing general geometry for bikes). And the Domane is a wildly common and popular endurance road bike.
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I imagine it's more tooling costs than granularity of fit. Note that headset spacers go down to 2mm, so apparently stack is more granular than reach, according to you.
Also, most fitter recommendations I've seen say to move your saddle about 3mm at a time. But I'm sure you know better.
Also, most fitter recommendations I've seen say to move your saddle about 3mm at a time. But I'm sure you know better.
Spacers come in many thicknesses, for reasons that aren't just about fit increments, like getting the headset adjustment to work without recutting the steerer.
And there's where the other 9mm of reach comes from. 5mm longer TT, 1.6 degree steeper head angle. I suspect even our insensitive friend here could feel that difference.
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With all the other differences they are not the same bike, even though you could have an overlap on fits as you can with 2 or even 3 different frame sizes of the same bike.
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I think they are road bikes that offer different geometry from the same brand's more aggressive road bike model.
That's all they are and that all they should be seen as.
Endurance bikes don't have a uniformed geometry across brands so some will be more aggressive than others. Some will be as aggressive as another brand's race geometry.
So yeah, they are accomplishing something since they offer geometry that is typically less aggressive.
I have never thoughtnof endurance bikes as a general category and viewed them as 'marketing fear'. That's laughable.
Also, I would not say endurance bikes have high trail in general. You called the forks high trail, but a fork isn't what creates rrai, it is 1 of 3 variables to determine trail.
Regardless, I don't know of any endurance road bikes that have high trail. They often have 2-8mm more trail than the same brand's performance road bike, but trail isn't high. It will typically be under 70mm still.
Heck, Domane trail is usually 59-60mm for all but the smallest sizes(which should be ignored when discussing general geometry for bikes). And the Domane is a wildly common and popular endurance road bike.
That's all they are and that all they should be seen as.
Endurance bikes don't have a uniformed geometry across brands so some will be more aggressive than others. Some will be as aggressive as another brand's race geometry.
So yeah, they are accomplishing something since they offer geometry that is typically less aggressive.
I have never thoughtnof endurance bikes as a general category and viewed them as 'marketing fear'. That's laughable.
Also, I would not say endurance bikes have high trail in general. You called the forks high trail, but a fork isn't what creates rrai, it is 1 of 3 variables to determine trail.
Regardless, I don't know of any endurance road bikes that have high trail. They often have 2-8mm more trail than the same brand's performance road bike, but trail isn't high. It will typically be under 70mm still.
Heck, Domane trail is usually 59-60mm for all but the smallest sizes(which should be ignored when discussing general geometry for bikes). And the Domane is a wildly common and popular endurance road bike.
But I do find a lot of bikes are marked in contrast to road race bikes that supposedly "twitchy". Has anyone ever ridden an actual "twitchy" road bike? The closest I have was when I had too much trail from a 40mm rake fork in a 72.5 HTA.
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Well whatever stack spacers someone might require on the Domane, they are going to need another 28 mm of spacers on the Madone for the same height. So unless they have their stem slammed on the Domane, the Madone isn't going to fit. Likewise someone who wants the lower stack height of the Madone is very likely to run out of stem spacers on the Domane.
With all the other differences they are not the same bike, even though you could have an overlap on fits as you can with 2 or even 3 different frame sizes of the same bike.
With all the other differences they are not the same bike, even though you could have an overlap on fits as you can with 2 or even 3 different frame sizes of the same bike.
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Well, I am a fitter, and I already said that we aren't really talking about setback - which is infinitely adjustable - but reach, which is only adjustable within the available stems. If this was an actual problem, stems would come in 5mm increments or maybe 2mm increments. Same thing with frames, that come in 2-3cm increments. It does not seem to be an issue.
Spacers come in many thicknesses, for reasons that aren't just about fit increments, like getting the headset adjustment to work without recutting the steerer.
How are you going to feel a fit difference from head tube angle? That affects front center, not reach. Unlike the seat tube angle that starts at the BB and runs up and back, the HTA starts at the top of the headset and runs down and forward.
Spacers come in many thicknesses, for reasons that aren't just about fit increments, like getting the headset adjustment to work without recutting the steerer.
How are you going to feel a fit difference from head tube angle? That affects front center, not reach. Unlike the seat tube angle that starts at the BB and runs up and back, the HTA starts at the top of the headset and runs down and forward.
...any bike with a certain TT length is going to have a shorter reach if you increase the stack because the head tube is angled back...
Did you give up on whatever your original point was? Because none of this seems to address any of that.
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Amen! I wish more bike manufacturers would focus on just these two aspects in their endurance road bike offerings. I don't mind buying "just" a taller race bike (as base2 and Kontact suggested above.) I already have a gravel bike, so I don't need massive tire clearance, longer chain stays, or any other "all road" capabilities. I have been mulling over "replacing" my 2016 Cannondale Synapse (size 54) which fits me perfectly, but there seems to be few ideal options.
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I looked at the prior Endurance CF SL but (like some other BF members have mentioned) I seem to be in between S and M sizes. So, maybe workable, but not ideal.
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Yeah, can't help you there. But I can say the L fits me to a T.
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I'm not saying they have higher trail, I'm saying that higher trail is mentioned and sometimes marked as a contributor to stability - and that is somewhat misleading because it is only more stable in some ways, and less in others.
But I do find a lot of bikes are marked in contrast to road race bikes that supposedly "twitchy". Has anyone ever ridden an actual "twitchy" road bike? The closest I have was when I had too much trail from a 40mm rake fork in a 72.5 HTA.
But I do find a lot of bikes are marked in contrast to road race bikes that supposedly "twitchy". Has anyone ever ridden an actual "twitchy" road bike? The closest I have was when I had too much trail from a 40mm rake fork in a 72.5 HTA.
Higher trail = more stable at speed and less likely to turn quickly.
Lower trail = easier to turn at speed.
You mentioned a road bike with 72.5hta and 40mm fork rake as both being too twitchy and having too much trail. Those terms don't usually apply together. If you have a 28mm tire on that bike, there would be 66mm of trail. I don't think anyone woulds ay 66mm of trail is twitchy for a road bike...and while it is on the higher side of the trail spectrum, it is also not egregiously high trail for an endurance road bike.
I also don't understand what you mean when you say higher trail is less stable in some ways. I guess it could be viewed as less stable when you are going really slowly and not moving anywhere, like at a stopsign?...but that is a reach. And the trail range we are talking about for endurance bikes, 58-68mm let's say, really has no downside in terms of stability.
In what specific ways is a road bike with 65mm of trail unstable?
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What my 2020 Bianchi Infinto endurance bike accomplishes is; its a very comfortable long distance bike, which is not twitchy, can be ridden hands-free, absorbs minor bumps, lacks quick steering which took some getting used to, but allows me to cruise at 18 MPH with ease. Has a higher stack, which works for me. The frame is considered aero and does not feel spongy. Love this bike.
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Amen! I wish more bike manufacturers would focus on just these two aspects in their endurance road bike offerings. I don't mind buying "just" a taller race bike (as base2 and Kontact suggested above.) I already have a gravel bike, so I don't need massive tire clearance, longer chain stays, or any other "all road" capabilities. I have been mulling over "replacing" my 2016 Cannondale Synapse (size 54) which fits me perfectly, but there seems to be few ideal options.
Having said that: The "Race" bike in their line up at the time actually was the S-series. It was the bike for the flexible and strong paid professionals who make a living on daily centuries ahead of the peleton that required aero for bridging gaps and sustaining break-aways. Hence S-oloist. The leader. The winner. The guy the peleton on road bikes is following.
The R-series was their classic "road bike" line. Not strictly "Race" by definition. But very capable for long days alone by mortals and domestiques. A bike for "racers" consistant with brand identity. Every aspect about the R is higher, longer, slacker, more relaxed than their "race only," aggressively aero, S. It was a big change in the orthodoxy of the time. A pretty savvy observation of a division between niches if you ask me. Aero-road versus Endurance-road. The R is what, then would've been "Endurance" by way of comparison. But, endurance has (obviously) matured a lot since then. As it should. Eventually the C-series came Bourne into existence along this branch of the evolutionary tree.
I am uncertain on Kontacts credentials or his motivations (or even the purpose) of this thread. Confusing top tube actual measurements as if they somehow, in some way related to stack and reach. Forgetting that handlebars all come in different reach and width. Forgetting shifters all have different lengths between brands. All swept aside by saying that "stems only come in 1cm increments"...Forgetting they come in different angles, too. I dunno. I guess some bike maker had to be first and invent the category every other bike manufacturer copied for Kontact to question it's purpose and take such innovations for granted, is as good a reason as any.
Have you looked at the Caledonia?
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#42
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But not fit differences. With spacers the two bikes would fit within mm of each other. Just not at the extremes of highest and lowest stack.
How do you move your bars 5mm when your stem only comes in 10mm increments? Clearly fit has a granularity that is larger than 5mm.
I do not think many cyclists would be affected by a 5mm setback change - unless you are already at the extreme forward end of the spectrum and then you go 5mm forward from there. But we are really talking about reach, not setback.
How do you move your bars 5mm when your stem only comes in 10mm increments? Clearly fit has a granularity that is larger than 5mm.
I do not think many cyclists would be affected by a 5mm setback change - unless you are already at the extreme forward end of the spectrum and then you go 5mm forward from there. But we are really talking about reach, not setback.
One obvious possibility- use bars with 5mm more reach. Why are you making stem length the only factor for effective reach when it is but one of multiple inputs?
Another possibility is to adjust the stem length, angle, and spacers to achieve 5mm shorter effective reach while still placing the bars at the same initial height.
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What my 2020 Bianchi Infinto endurance bike accomplishes is; its a very comfortable long distance bike, which is not twitchy, can be ridden hands-free, absorbs minor bumps, lacks quick steering which took some getting used to, but allows me to cruise at 18 MPH with ease. Has a higher stack, which works for me. The frame is considered aero and does not feel spongy. Love this bike.
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You are the bike fitter...you really don't know how?
One obvious possibility- use bars with 5mm more reach. Why are you making stem length the only factor for effective reach when it is but one of multiple inputs?
Another possibility is to adjust the stem length, angle, and spacers to achieve 5mm shorter effective reach while still placing the bars at the same initial height.
One obvious possibility- use bars with 5mm more reach. Why are you making stem length the only factor for effective reach when it is but one of multiple inputs?
Another possibility is to adjust the stem length, angle, and spacers to achieve 5mm shorter effective reach while still placing the bars at the same initial height.
I would not use a fitter who didn't see 5mm as a detectable difference.
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Stack and reach are problematic numbers because they document a vertical and horizontal intersection with an angled line. So they yield limited useful information and cause confusion.
My point, which sosmellyair alludes to, is that there is nothing special about an endurance bike considering a race bike with a tall head tubes and large tires is just as easy to ride.
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I think you are confusing terms.
Higher trail = more stable at speed and less likely to turn quickly.
Lower trail = easier to turn at speed.
You mentioned a road bike with 72.5hta and 40mm fork rake as both being too twitchy and having too much trail. Those terms don't usually apply together. If you have a 28mm tire on that bike, there would be 66mm of trail. I don't think anyone woulds ay 66mm of trail is twitchy for a road bike...and while it is on the higher side of the trail spectrum, it is also not egregiously high trail for an endurance road bike.
I also don't understand what you mean when you say higher trail is less stable in some ways. I guess it could be viewed as less stable when you are going really slowly and not moving anywhere, like at a stopsign?...but that is a reach. And the trail range we are talking about for endurance bikes, 58-68mm let's say, really has no downside in terms of stability.
In what specific ways is a road bike with 65mm of trail unstable?
Higher trail = more stable at speed and less likely to turn quickly.
Lower trail = easier to turn at speed.
You mentioned a road bike with 72.5hta and 40mm fork rake as both being too twitchy and having too much trail. Those terms don't usually apply together. If you have a 28mm tire on that bike, there would be 66mm of trail. I don't think anyone woulds ay 66mm of trail is twitchy for a road bike...and while it is on the higher side of the trail spectrum, it is also not egregiously high trail for an endurance road bike.
I also don't understand what you mean when you say higher trail is less stable in some ways. I guess it could be viewed as less stable when you are going really slowly and not moving anywhere, like at a stopsign?...but that is a reach. And the trail range we are talking about for endurance bikes, 58-68mm let's say, really has no downside in terms of stability.
In what specific ways is a road bike with 65mm of trail unstable?
As a general rule when dealing with 700-C wheels, a trail of about 56mm will give a frame set "neutral" handling. My use of the term "neutral" here refers to two things. First, neutral handling means that a frame set will respond to steering input in the same manner no matter what speed the bicycle is traveling. Second, while cornering, a neutral handling bike will have neither a tendency to climb out of a turn nor have a tendency to dive into the turn, it will simply hold the line that the rider sets up unless further rider input is applied.
Decreasing trail below the neutral range has a couple of effects as you might expect. The first thing a rider will notice about a low trial bike is that it appears to resist attitude changes (lean angle changes). It requires more physical effort to get the bike to lean into a corner and more effort to get it to straighten up. The second thing that you will notice is that while cornering at higher speeds, the bike will have a tendency to climb out of the turn on its own. Finally, you will find that the way the bike responds to rider input is affected by the speed of the bike. As you might have guessed by now, at lower speeds, a low trail bike will have a tendency to want to go straight and do so pretty much on its own. What you will find at higher speeds (like over 30mph) is that a low trail bike will become quite vague in the front end. The front wheel will feel as though it is wandering a bit and the contact patch feel will simply go away.
Increasing trial above the neutral range will cause opposite effects for the most part. At lower speeds, handling response will be light and consequently, attitude changes will be much easier. During cornering, the bike will have a tendency to drop into a tighter arc than the rider might have intended. Finally, speed's effect on handling is reversed. While low speeds give a light feel during handling maneuvers, high speed sets up a very solid front end feel.
Decreasing trail below the neutral range has a couple of effects as you might expect. The first thing a rider will notice about a low trial bike is that it appears to resist attitude changes (lean angle changes). It requires more physical effort to get the bike to lean into a corner and more effort to get it to straighten up. The second thing that you will notice is that while cornering at higher speeds, the bike will have a tendency to climb out of the turn on its own. Finally, you will find that the way the bike responds to rider input is affected by the speed of the bike. As you might have guessed by now, at lower speeds, a low trail bike will have a tendency to want to go straight and do so pretty much on its own. What you will find at higher speeds (like over 30mph) is that a low trail bike will become quite vague in the front end. The front wheel will feel as though it is wandering a bit and the contact patch feel will simply go away.
Increasing trial above the neutral range will cause opposite effects for the most part. At lower speeds, handling response will be light and consequently, attitude changes will be much easier. During cornering, the bike will have a tendency to drop into a tighter arc than the rider might have intended. Finally, speed's effect on handling is reversed. While low speeds give a light feel during handling maneuvers, high speed sets up a very solid front end feel.
I also prefer neutral trail, but if I was grinding away at 15 miles an hour for 200 miles, I would certainly consider a bike that wants to ride straight at those speeds - low trail.
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I'm not contradicting myself. "Reach" is defined as distance from the BB. But how we actually sit on bikes doesn't work like that because bending forward increases the distance from the saddle that we can easily get to.
Stack and reach are problematic numbers because they document a vertical and horizontal intersection with an angled line. So they yield limited useful information and cause confusion.
Stack and reach are problematic numbers because they document a vertical and horizontal intersection with an angled line. So they yield limited useful information and cause confusion.
My point, which sosmellyair alludes to, is that there is nothing special about an endurance bike considering a race bike with a tall head tubes and large tires is just as easy to ride.
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You are the bike fitter...you really don't know how?
One obvious possibility- use bars with 5mm more reach. Why are you making stem length the only factor for effective reach when it is but one of multiple inputs?
Another possibility is to adjust the stem length, angle, and spacers to achieve 5mm shorter effective reach while still placing the bars at the same initial height.
One obvious possibility- use bars with 5mm more reach. Why are you making stem length the only factor for effective reach when it is but one of multiple inputs?
Another possibility is to adjust the stem length, angle, and spacers to achieve 5mm shorter effective reach while still placing the bars at the same initial height.
"Hey, you seem fine at this reach, but why don't we replace your $300 carbon bars or run your stem upside down for a 1/4" of 'improvement'?"
But if it is important to you, other methods of adjusting reach include switching component groups for different brifters, or raising/lowering the bar angle while keeping the brifters at a static height.
Of course, you can't do anything with stem angle if the stem is proprietary. But hey, I don't have to tell you that.
#49
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#50
Grupetto Bob
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The post is a bit tough to raise and lower due to the in-frame retaining bolt. The bolt can be loosened but getting the wedge, which it secured, to budge is a PITA. One of the seat rail retaining bits broke and is not available, unless you buy the entire seat post assembly for $300, which happens to be not available. So I kluged a piece and it has held for 8,000 miles. Would not buy another bike with these pieces.
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